3-4 bleed hole

Sy-cloned

New member
I have been through the archives and searched here I have found a lot of reference to sealing this hole up. Is this the proper 3-4 bleed hole? I circled it in blue. Theres another hole that has a check ball in the same area that also blows air during a air check.

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/a...5d1209396592-700r4-rebuild-specs-100_1654.jpg

If you seal this hole up does in mandate any other changes such as opening up the plate in specific areas?

I'm trying to complete a rebuild and am having a hard time finding all my information. I have found a LOT searching just very few pics.

Thanks to anyone that helps. :tup:
 
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TYTILIDIE

METH HEAD
Re: 3-4 bleed hole

Says you have to log in. The hole you are talking about is behind the servo line up, you have to take the bullet with the check ball in it out and put a cup in there. I think its 3/8", can't remember off hand.
 

4C FED

Absolutum Dominium
Re: 3-4 bleed hole

TYTILIDIE said:
Says you have to log in. The hole you are talking about is behind the servo line up, you have to take the bullet with the check ball in it out and put a cup in there. I think its 3/8", can't remember off hand.

No, the picture in that link is addressing the bleed hole in the input drum.
I think you can plug it & drill a small hole (don't recall what size to use) or there is a checkball capsule the Superior makes.
 

dgoodhue

BuSTeD 4.3
Re: 3-4 bleed hole

Sy-cloned said:
I have been through the archives and searched here I have found a lot of reference to sealing this hole up. Is this the proper 3-4 bleed hole? I circled it in blue. Theres another hole that has a check ball in the same area that also blows air during a air check.

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/a...5d1209396592-700r4-rebuild-specs-100_1654.jpg

If you seal this hole up does in mandate any other changes such as opening up the plate in specific areas?

I'm trying to complete a rebuild and am having a hard time finding all my information. I have found a LOT searching just very few pics.

Thanks to anyone that helps. :tup:

Yes that is the one for the 3-4 Bleed hole to be sealed up. I asked Brian Hartman specifically about this question a couple months ago, I was really hazy about which hole this was as well.
 

TYTILIDIE

METH HEAD
Re: 3-4 bleed hole

4C FED said:
No, the picture in that link is addressing the bleed hole in the input drum.
I think you can plug it & drill a small hole (don't recall what size to use) or there is a checkball capsule the Superior makes.

Well, unfortunately I cant see the picture. But that is what I mean by bullet. I blocked mine off with a 3/8" cup. Ill post a pic tonight.
 

Sy-cloned

New member
Re: 3-4 bleed hole

Sorry about pic and most here not being able to see the picture. Basically on the backside of the drum (shaftside). There are 2 holes. One has a barrel look with a checkball the other is on what I would call a shoulder. It is the one you would block with your finger when doing the 3-4 air test. There seem to be a awful lot of holes that get blocked off and I only know maybe half of them. As stated before any help is appreciated.
 

TYTILIDIE

METH HEAD
Re: 3-4 bleed hole

Sy-cloned said:
Sorry about pic and most here not being able to see the picture. Basically on the backside of the drum (shaftside). There are 2 holes. One has a barrel look with a checkball the other is on what I would call a shoulder. It is the one you would block with your finger when doing the 3-4 air test. There seem to be a awful lot of holes that get blocked off and I only know maybe half of them. As stated before any help is appreciated.

OOOHHH I know what youre talking about, I have that blocked off on my trans. I thought you were talking about the case. Mine is blocked and I was told it is not a necessity but doesnt hurt either. Never heard of it as being like a major thing to do.
 

Sy-cloned

New member
Re: 3-4 bleed hole

TYTILIDIE said:
Says you have to log in. The hole you are talking about is behind the servo line up, you have to take the bullet with the check ball in it out and put a cup in there. I think its 3/8", can't remember off hand.


So you also block this hole off completely too? I'm going to guess what your calling a cup is a 3/8 freeze plug?

The trans I'm building... I have a 29 BW element sprag, New BW lower sprag, 9 disc Raybestos max pac all the rest of the frictions are BW high energy,.500 boost valve, .296 reverse, 4th gear servo ( I know I'm going to have to mod the floor), Pinless accumulators, all the steel forward steel molded pistons, Corvette Servo, A Trans-go 2&3 (since its not an original sy/ty trans), The Beast, a new reverse drum, a new wide band (ALTO). Modded WOT sleeve. I am going to open up the drainback hole to 9/32" and have a diagram for a few other holes in the plate that need modded.

I have the 4l60e 5 fingered plate.I brought new,however,I have the wrong height ( actuator?) What year did they start using the shorter legnth?

How do you set the trans up so you have remove the brass/copper and plastic selectives and install a torrington. Where can I find these parts? I have a few 4L60e cores(1994 and newer) any parts I might want to remove from them? Any other parts I am missing.

I am not looking for the hardest hitting transmission as I doubt with the AWD it would last like that. I am basically trying to find a happy medium. Any suggestions/help is greatly appreciated as I mentioned before. If I could do attachments here, I would gladly post pics. :tup:
 

George Blake

DONATING MEMBER
Re: 3-4 bleed hole

Your wanting someone to walk you through the rebuild.

#7 apply ring. Get the ATSG manual and it's in there. 8 clutch max pack. Your better off with the GM 7 clutch setup. Thicker steels to disappate heat. But you've already got those. Tear down a 60e and the apply ring is in there.
Tytilidie is talking about the 3rd accumulator in the case. Look in the atsg where they show how to replace that. You want to pull it, then use a TH400 parking pawl cup plug. They come in the rebuild kits. If you had this much trouble with the bleed hole in the input drum, I suggest you leave it alone. Don't do the manual shift part of the transgo 2-3 kit and do not install the orange spring in the 3-4 shift valve lineup or it will shift way to late at part throttle. If you do the Fairbanks servo, you don't have to mod the tunnel. With the sonnax setup, you MUST open the tunnel or the servo hits the floor.
Follow the ATSG, follow the transgo instructions but don't do any of the manual shifting stuff (you'll be sorry) and you'll be ok. If you start blocking stuff and you don't know what your doing, you'll be damned trying to troubleshoot it later.
I'm betting the plate spec setup is the one I did. I figured it would make it around.
Sy-cloned said:
So you also block this hole off completely too? I'm going to guess what your calling a cup is a 3/8 freeze plug?

The trans I'm building... I have a 29 BW element sprag, New BW lower sprag, 9 disc Raybestos max pac all the rest of the frictions are BW high energy,.500 boost valve, .296 reverse, 4th gear servo ( I know I'm going to have to mod the floor), Pinless accumulators, all the steel forward steel molded pistons, Corvette Servo, A Trans-go 2&3 (since its not an original sy/ty trans), The Beast, a new reverse drum, a new wide band (ALTO). Modded WOT sleeve. I am going to open up the drainback hole to 9/32" and have a diagram for a few other holes in the plate that need modded.

I have the 4l60e 5 fingered plate.I brought new,however,I have the wrong height ( actuator?) What year did they start using the shorter legnth?

How do you set the trans up so you have remove the brass/copper and plastic selectives and install a torrington. Where can I find these parts? I have a few 4L60e cores(1994 and newer) any parts I might want to remove from them? Any other parts I am missing.

I am not looking for the hardest hitting transmission as I doubt with the AWD it would last like that. I am basically trying to find a happy medium. Any suggestions/help is greatly appreciated as I mentioned before. If I could do attachments here, I would gladly post pics. :tup:
 

Sy-cloned

New member
Re: 3-4 bleed hole

George Blake said:
Your wanting someone to walk you through the rebuild.

#7 apply ring. Get the ATSG manual and it's in there. 8 clutch max pack. Your better off with the GM 7 clutch setup. Thicker steels to disappate heat. But you've already got those. Tear down a 60e and the apply ring is in there.
Tytilidie is talking about the 3rd accumulator in the case. Look in the atsg where they show how to replace that. You want to pull it, then use a TH400 parking pawl cup plug. They come in the rebuild kits. If you had this much trouble with the bleed hole in the input drum, I suggest you leave it alone. Don't do the manual shift part of the transgo 2-3 kit and do not install the orange spring in the 3-4 shift valve lineup or it will shift way to late at part throttle. If you do the Fairbanks servo, you don't have to mod the tunnel. With the sonnax setup, you MUST open the tunnel or the servo hits the floor.
Follow the ATSG, follow the transgo instructions but don't do any of the manual shifting stuff (you'll be sorry) and you'll be ok. If you start blocking stuff and you don't know what your doing, you'll be damned trying to troubleshoot it later.
I'm betting the plate spec setup is the one I did. I figured it would make it around.

Thanks for the help. Everyone starts somewhere. Most trans builders around here want everything as close to stock as possible... when you start modding stuff... they aren't happy or cooperative (can't blame them they just don't have the answers). My trans had no third for some reason and I suspect the capsule TYTILIDIE and you are talking about was the problem as fluid does leak in the case portion. The ATSG only shows Repair and replacement it doesn't actually show blocking it off in the one I have. However the copy I have looks cheap to me.
 
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Sy-cloned

New member
Re: 3-4 bleed hole

TYTILIDIE I found this on that capsule removal.


"id like to pose a fes questions to you regarding gms use of the third accumulator checkball in the 3rd gear upshift circuit.3rd clutch oil waiting at the shift valve passes thru it when governer strokes the valve.it then enters the third circuit and is sent to the direct clutch drum 2004r or 3/4 clutches 700r4 while also directed to remove the band applied at the same pressure but with a smaller apply area thus being knocked off during the upshift.the checkball 3rd acc is used to force third oil to exit thru the exhaust hole in the ball capsule as well as thru the secondary hole in the seperator plate next to the 3rd acc hole in the plate.some third acc use no secondary hole therefore a delay in 4/2 or 3/2 kickdowns is present if the secondary hole is not there.now transgo plugs the primary 3rd acc hole and says you must have what i call the secondary 3 rd acc hole.what i have found is that during a 2/3 upshift the checkball is actually used to reduce band knockoff and is positioned in its bathtub and held there by oil fed thru the secondary hole.if the ball is not there and the plate is plugged i find 2/3 upshift quality is not as firm as it is with the original set up with the primary and secondary acc holes and checkball combo in hi output applications.also it is interesting to notethat the calibrations that do not use the secondary hole but have the primary hole and checkball do not leave a witness mark in the bathtub as do the other types leading me to believe this lack of third acc oil restriction cause a flare or minute slip during application.this is evident based on data log info ive gathered with an 11 second turbo buick test car we use to understand the transmission world we work in.the mcss ho used this calibration and suffered ban failures.the plug and drill tgo methos i have found to not be worthy for hi performance usage.here at ckperformance we do not deal with passenger cars intended to get around with stock motors.this circuit was to be used in conjunction with a 3/2 control valve ,3rd acc ball capsule as well as an exhaust port over the 2/3 shift valve in the valve body to control exhausting rates but also greatly affect upshift performance.it is also possible to get a 4/3 /2 kickdown at 40 mph even though the third valve is closed because of the amount of time it takes for the 3rd clutch to release.what did you find on this mystifying circuit.there is more to it than meets the eye".
 

TYTILIDIE

METH HEAD
Re: 3-4 bleed hole

Interesting, personally, I haven't noticed any changes at all since I blocked that off.
 

Tooky

Serious about performance
Re: 3-4 bleed hole

You know what's really funny, I knew who wrote that huge paragraph when I was only 25% of the way through reading it :D There's only a handful of real transmission experts out there posting info.
 

Tooky

Serious about performance
Re: 3-4 bleed hole

Yeah he's better at transmissions than he is on a keyboard, that's for sure. :p
 
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