InvisiBill
Active member
Not very technical, but the more information available the better...
We use an "M12-1.5x41.5mm" bolt, part number 98498 from AutoZone, $.99 each. Lugnuts are 98953, $.59 each. This is one of those two minute jobs that takes ten minutes to get to. While you're replacing one, you might as well replace all of them for that wheel.
Remove the wheel.
Remove the brake caliper. Remember to open the bleeder valve when you spread the pads, to avoid pushing sediment up into the ABS unit.
Remove the rotor.
Rotate the stud to be removed to where the brake caliper would be. The empty caliper-mounting area will give you room to get the stud out. Simply pound it out backwards with a big hammer. Slide the new stud in from behind.
If you have your propshaft in, you'll need to jack up the other side of the truck to let that tire spin so the wheel you're working on can be turned. You can pound a few studs loose at a time, then jack up the other side to rotate the hub to swap the new studs in place of the old ones. The back of the studs will not clear the ABS sensor unless they're fully seated, meaning you won't be able to rotate the hub to get the studs out...
With the other wheel on the ground to prevent turning, tighten a nut on the new studs to seat them. I used a washer and a lugnut, but a flat nut would probably work better than that beveled edge. Again, the back of the stud needs to be flush with the hub surface or it won't clear the ABS sensor.
Replace rotor, caliper, and wheel.
I just got one stud and lugnut to replace the ones I dorked up. I got that replaced and noticed that one of the others had some problems too. I did the other four on that hub in the same time as I did the first one. Since they're cheap and you're already in there, I'd recommend replacing all of the studs on that hub if you do need to replace one. If you already have a jack on each side for allowing/preventing turning of the hub, it would also be quite easy to do the opposite side's studs at the same time.
We use an "M12-1.5x41.5mm" bolt, part number 98498 from AutoZone, $.99 each. Lugnuts are 98953, $.59 each. This is one of those two minute jobs that takes ten minutes to get to. While you're replacing one, you might as well replace all of them for that wheel.
Remove the wheel.
Remove the brake caliper. Remember to open the bleeder valve when you spread the pads, to avoid pushing sediment up into the ABS unit.
Remove the rotor.
Rotate the stud to be removed to where the brake caliper would be. The empty caliper-mounting area will give you room to get the stud out. Simply pound it out backwards with a big hammer. Slide the new stud in from behind.
If you have your propshaft in, you'll need to jack up the other side of the truck to let that tire spin so the wheel you're working on can be turned. You can pound a few studs loose at a time, then jack up the other side to rotate the hub to swap the new studs in place of the old ones. The back of the studs will not clear the ABS sensor unless they're fully seated, meaning you won't be able to rotate the hub to get the studs out...
With the other wheel on the ground to prevent turning, tighten a nut on the new studs to seat them. I used a washer and a lugnut, but a flat nut would probably work better than that beveled edge. Again, the back of the stud needs to be flush with the hub surface or it won't clear the ABS sensor.
Replace rotor, caliper, and wheel.
I just got one stud and lugnut to replace the ones I dorked up. I got that replaced and noticed that one of the others had some problems too. I did the other four on that hub in the same time as I did the first one. Since they're cheap and you're already in there, I'd recommend replacing all of the studs on that hub if you do need to replace one. If you already have a jack on each side for allowing/preventing turning of the hub, it would also be quite easy to do the opposite side's studs at the same time.