Full frame off resto

Terry

Member
Hey All,

Been few weeks, was oncall one of the weekends, ended up really tired and so another weekend so didn't feel like any garage time.

This Friday I took off work so I could get my motor in for disassemble and full rebuild.

We took the motor off the stand and had to get out the engine hoist to help. Did get the short block into the truck bed.

Took over to a shop 10 min away. Guy builds truck pull motors and has for very long time. He comes highly recommended. Him and his partner lifted out the motor and that was that. I have to email him what I want done.

I'm thinking set of eagle H-beam rods
(Cause this all I can find)
Forged pistons. Hopefully US made.
Depending on cost - 4 bolt main caps on middle 2
Valve job with new rockers, valves etc.
I will have them assemble the short block and I can put the rest on from their.

I did contact sportmachines in NY. Glad they still open. Tom said to send him a list of required stuff and he get me pricing.

I will also put in a new cam. Probably same as the original specs.

If anyone has some suggestions/recommendations for engine internals, let me know.

Next weekend (and it's a long weekend in Ontario! May 24) is the floor pan replacement. It's time to start that repair. Better order the white por-15

Talk soon
 

Attachments

Terry

Member
Been a few weeks since an update. Just been so busy. I have been working on the truck.

May 22/21

Had to change around the front rotisserie mounting location so I could begin changing the diver side footwell and body mount.

Quickly fabbed up a small bracket by drilling some holes and attached the left side Rotis mount to a front fender/clip mount. The body isn't really that heavy and once changed, seemed sturdy.

It seems as if the replacement cab floor supports were intended to be hammered overtop of the existing ones so without further adu, we cleaned off as much crap of the rusty cab mount with a course wire wheel. I did have to trim a few little spots but the new cab mount fit decent.

I was.running outa steam.for the day so I had dad coat the whole area with por-15 inside and out, I hammered the mount into place and secured with another home made bracket. I put a couple of tacks welds on but I was done for the day. Quick clean up and see ya next weekend Dad!
.
 

Attachments

Terry

Member
May 29/21

Hey,.

Was such a beautiful weekend, rolled the truck out to work in the sunshine!
.
The driver and passenger side (forgot to mention this last week) in the cab mount areas are actually 3 layers. From the bottom up, cab mount, reinforcement plate/bracket then floor pan. I didn't want to cut any of the reinforcement away and don't have a spot weld cutter so I ground away the welds, separating the floor at that point.

All that held the seam from the "side meets floor" was seam sealer so that was scraped out. I cut out the least amount of floor pan I could keeping as much original metal as possible, as well as getting all the rot.

I did cut the new replacement panel out to fit the trucks floor but wanted to por-15 all over this portion as well.

One of the drainage holes under the passenger side rear seat was also rusted out. I cut out a square and attempted to patch this but the old man's welder couldn't be turned down enough and was blowing holes.

I'm bringing over my new miller next weekend to weld both these in. It's turns right down when needed.

Till next time.
 

Attachments

Terry

Member
Again, few more. This is under the back seat. I cut out the rotten section and attempted to weld the new panel but the welder jut too hot. Even the manual indicates not recommended for this thin.

needless to say, not happy with this patch so far. Will probably cut out and do another. A better fit and a better machine. Glad it happened on this one the the footwell area.
 

Attachments

Terry

Member
I know its really hard to see, the first picture has the hole. What looks like the floor is actually the driveway. Second picture has the shitty patch
 

Goodgollyjosh

Active member
Looking good Terry. Loving all the fabrication work. It's gonna be one clean Ty when you're done with her. I'm constantly stripping stock stuff off my Sy. Let me know if there's anything you're looking for and I'll keep an eye out.
 

Terry

Member
If there is anything I'm having a hard time finding, it's good know there's lads willing to help. Thanks man.

Do have a question,

Anyone play with compression ratio?
I believe the factory CR is 8.35 to 1. Since im changing the rod and pistons anyways I've been thinking about upping the CR to 8.5. It's only a little bit so everything should be ok. Or is this not recommended? I figure a little bit here and a little.bit there should give me a bit more power without major mods

What do you guys think?
 

DaveP's Ghost

Active member
Anyone play with compression ratio?
What do you guys think?
Most cyl head refurbishments include a .020-.030 clean-up surfacing. This alone will give you your desired bump in compression.

I had a 92 Ty that I bought from a salvage yard, so there was no history with it, but I did confirm that the engine was the original born-with engine. This was 1995, who'd a thunk a 3 year old Ty would have had engine work? I fought chronic detonation and boost problems for a couple of years. It ran fine on 100LL Aviation fuel, but that wasn't practical or economical. Eventually I took the engine apart and discovered that the pistons were conventional flat-tops which are about 9.5:1.

Keep in mind that when these engines were developed and validated, the recommended Premium fuels were 97 Octane. In my area Premium is now 91 Octane. You can't get the fuel for even the stock compression and boost levels any more. I see this simple fact ignored on forum after forum in discussion after discussion. Modern engines get the power levels they do from evolutionary features such as combustion chamber design, induction system design, variable valve timing, and a myriad of other improvements over the 30+ year old dinosaur technology of a SyTy.
 

Goodgollyjosh

Active member
"Keep in mind that when these engines were developed and validated, the recommended Premium fuels were 97 Octane"

I didn't realize they did it with 97, good info to know.
 

Terry

Member
Hey guys,

I didn't know the recommendation was for 97 octane fuel either. I've always used sunoco 94 up here as that's the best available in Ontario. (It is currently available as is 93)

Yes I will be having the heads done and if that brings CR up to 8.5 to 1 then I'm going to leave at that. Certainly don't want to go higher and Certainly don't need the hassle or expense of having to get better fuel then the local gas station carries.

Thanks for the heads up
 
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