Looking for Sy mechanic near the Los Angeles area.

EddieSy

New member
Hey Community,
I’m looking for a mechanic in the Los Angeles area that knows these trucks.
Main issue I’m having is ABS brakes not working.
would like the fix or repair the unit but if not I have the ABS delete kit on hand.
I’m located in the San Fernando Valley area of Los Angeles Ca but can travel nearby.
thanks,
 

canon

New member
Hey Eddie,
did you ever find someone local to look at your truck?
I'm also in LA, my ABS is unplugged along with some other issues I need help with.

Thanks
 

graham1524

Member
Hey Eddie,
did you ever find someone local to look at your truck?
I'm also in LA, my ABS is unplugged along with some other issues I need help with.

Thanks
ABS is usually safest on these trucks unplugged! What other issues are you dealing with?
 

canon

New member
ABS is usually safest on these trucks unplugged! What other issues are you dealing with?
That's what the guy told me when I bought it - I figured it would be worth looking at getting working again but perhaps not!

The main issues I'm dealing with are an unidentified clunking that occurs near my floorboard in front of the shifter / side of footwell when turning into a dip or speed bumps. I thought it could be old trans mounts or a-arms but my mechanic said they look good. I had oem replacements put in on the trans mount to be sure. No help.

Also get a big cloud of blue smoke on ignition after I've driven it for a bit, then start it back up.

For some reason my blower isn't working at all either. No speed of fan setting will cause air to blow.

In general I'm looking for a good mechanic that can help trouble shoot these things and also do some upgrades. a west coast sport machines if that exists!

Recommended shops to me are Hyetech Motors (out of business?) and Powerlab Motors (can't get ahold of them).
 

graham1524

Member
That's what the guy told me when I bought it - I figured it would be worth looking at getting working again but perhaps not!

The main issues I'm dealing with are an unidentified clunking that occurs near my floorboard in front of the shifter / side of footwell when turning into a dip or speed bumps. I thought it could be old trans mounts or a-arms but my mechanic said they look good. I had oem replacements put in on the trans mount to be sure. No help.

This is pretty common, could be a torsion bar mount that has worn out, do some searching on here and lots of people have gone over this issue on depth

Also get a big cloud of blue smoke on ignition after I've driven it for a bit, then start it back up.

Probably valve seals, not a huge problem if it's just after sitting a while

For some reason my blower isn't working at all either. No speed of fan setting will cause air to blow.

I'd check fuses, but replacing the whole motor isn't very difficult

In general I'm looking for a good mechanic that can help trouble shoot these things and also do some upgrades. a west coast sport machines if that exists!

Recommended shops to me are Hyetech Motors (out of business?) and Powerlab Motors (can't get ahold of them).

A few answers to help look into some of these issues (read red text), if you're in LA I'd message DaveP if you can.

Also, what number syclone's are you guys working on?
 

canon

New member
I'm workin on 0092

I've tried contacting everyone that I've heard works on these: RPM, Powerlab, Hyetech, Lou (grand national guy) - no luck.
I'll send DaveP a message
 

DaveP's Ghost

Active member
I'll generally only work on bone-stock SyTy in unmolested original configuration. No headers, no turbo-tweak chips, no air to air intercoolers. If they can't pass smog because of the mods, I'm not interested.

The smoke on hot restart is valve stem seals.
Blower motor inop can't be too tough. Possibly the fan switch.
The clunk could be a number of things, but check the front shock absorber bolts (especially the uppers) for being tight. I had a clunk that sounds kind of like yours could be ("floorboards") in my DD that took me a year to find. Really maddening, mostly because I couldn't find it. My neighbor and I were standing next to it talking, he leaned up against it and it made the noise. Once I heard how far forward the source actually was (not "under" the truck at all) it only took 30 seconds to pinpoint it as the upper shock bolt was loose.
 

canon

New member
I'll generally only work on bone-stock SyTy in unmolested original configuration. No headers, no turbo-tweak chips, no air to air intercoolers. If they can't pass smog because of the mods, I'm not interested.

The smoke on hot restart is valve stem seals.
Blower motor inop can't be too tough. Possibly the fan switch.
The clunk could be a number of things, but check the front shock absorber bolts (especially the uppers) for being tight. I had a clunk that sounds kind of like yours could be ("floorboards") in my DD that took me a year to find. Really maddening, mostly because I couldn't find it. My neighbor and I were standing next to it talking, he leaned up against it and it made the noise. Once I heard how far forward the source actually was (not "under" the truck at all) it only took 30 seconds to pinpoint it as the upper shock bolt was loose.
Mine's bone stock and passed smog for visual.
After much reading on here I feel like I have an idea on what's typical characteristics of these trucks (hard shift 1 to 2, ticking from injectors, etc.) but would love to get someone with experience to diagnose/fix the other issues I'm suspect of. Let me know if you'd be willing to take a look? No pressure.

Good call - I'll look into the front shock absorber bolts.
Valve Stem Seals is a job couple places weren't willing to do and I dont have the time for at the moment. I guess its not concerning? but the amount of smoke has gotten larger. Sometimes its comical depending on where im parked / pointing...
 

wildphil

I Love My Ty's
The valve seals leaking a bit of oil past them won't hurt a anything. That puff of smoke is the leaked oil burning off. There is in attachment that screws into the spark plug hole that air from a compressor applied will hold the valve in place during the replacement of the seals. I have also used rope pushed into the spark plug hole and hand turned the crank until the valves were in the correct position so the valve springs could be removed.

Most people live with the smoke until they rebuild the engine.
 
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