Motocam360 Plug n Play ECM
- Thread starter MotoCam360
- Start date
Dan_Austin
Member
Gotcha. I was actually interested in details about the distributor/cam/crank sensor setup. I know that type of setup can be less accurate than a true cam and crank sensor, but also far less effort to install.
I wasn't expecting confirmation that the original owner had sold his goods, but it is helpful. Someone got an amazing deal and I will likely be reaching out for a stage 1 in the near future.
I wasn't expecting confirmation that the original owner had sold his goods, but it is helpful. Someone got an amazing deal and I will likely be reaching out for a stage 1 in the near future.
MotoCam360
Member
Hi Dan, our Stage 2 kit utilizes a true crank trigger and pickup. It also uses a cam sensor that goes in place of the distributor. We offer a wasted spark coil pack (easiest install and cheapest solution) or you can run 6 LS coils instead.
MotoCam360
Member
We don't keep track of where the units ship to.
Since our ecu is the same as the factory physically and there's no need to change wiring or components inside the bay, you should pass visual inspection with flying colors.
The ecu will allow you to tune the motor perfectly from start up to redline. One of our customers says TX emissions requirements are almost identical to CA and he passed 2 vehicles without problem
MotoCam360
Member
MotoCam360
Member
shipped another Stage 1 unit this week, with the OBD1 torque convertor lockup option:
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MotoCam360
Member
Shipped another Stage 1 unit today with no additional features
MotoCam360
Member
Shipped another Stage 3 kit earlier this month, who's going to run AEM coils:
MotoCam360
Member
Shipped a Stage3 system this week, which runs coil packs and sequential injection. It's unique because it has our optional wifi box that allows you to connect to any Android or iOS device. This works well for remote tuning and also digital gauges so you don't have to cut up your dash:
MotoCam360
Member
This week we shipped another Stage 1 system. This is a unique build because the customer wanted meth injection control:
MotoCam360
Member
We've already done a few Stage 1 to 3 upgrades for customers - no big deal. Even if the unit changes hands, we've supported the new ecu owners
MotoCam360
Member
This week we shipped another Stage 1 plug n play system that is very different from all the rest we've built. The customer requested the CAN bus be brought out so he could run GPS or a stand alone dash. He's also using the bluetooth wireless dongle for tuning instead of the wifi box. Wireless tuning is handled through Tuner Studio for the PC or ShadowDash App for iOS and Android. This unit is tapped into the VSS through factory wiring so the input can lock up the torque convertor. Lastly, it's also tapped into the factory AC compressor line to control Idle up and compressor release under hard driving conditions (WOT, etc)
Dan_Austin
Member
That last unit was built for me. The CAN gauge is way in the future, but having the pigtail ready just made sense. I was able to get my hands on a factory ECU pinout diagram and confirmed the TCC, VSS and AC input(s) by testing my current ECU/Harness.
The short version is it just plain works. Longer version, with a VSS input, things like gear detections (MPH vs RPM) possible, and already confirmed to work. With gear detection, setting things like TCC lockup only in 4th and at a specific speed possible. Also boost by gear if you want to launch soft and hammer 2nd and 3rd.
The AC request allows for idle up when AC is turned on, and AC control allows for de-clutching the AC compressor per the screenshot. VSS might not make sense for many, but RPM is good to keep from blowing up a compressor running it above it's rated RPM. And TPS is good to take a load off when needing a bit of extra juice while passing.
My truck has a very worn-out engine. The replacement is almost ready, so no harm experimenting on the current, in case testing did not go well. I only have a mile on the truck after installing the ECU, and that is just due to me having family obligations that prevent more seat time. The truck started up right away after connecting the new ECU. It holds idle at 650 rpm in gear with the AC on, and smoothly, which the factory ECU did not do so well, with a higher base idle.
The new engine will really allow the ECU to shine, but even with just a mile on the clock, I can say the benefit is clear. Many thanks go to the Motocam360 team for bringing this to market.
The short version is it just plain works. Longer version, with a VSS input, things like gear detections (MPH vs RPM) possible, and already confirmed to work. With gear detection, setting things like TCC lockup only in 4th and at a specific speed possible. Also boost by gear if you want to launch soft and hammer 2nd and 3rd.
The AC request allows for idle up when AC is turned on, and AC control allows for de-clutching the AC compressor per the screenshot. VSS might not make sense for many, but RPM is good to keep from blowing up a compressor running it above it's rated RPM. And TPS is good to take a load off when needing a bit of extra juice while passing.
My truck has a very worn-out engine. The replacement is almost ready, so no harm experimenting on the current, in case testing did not go well. I only have a mile on the truck after installing the ECU, and that is just due to me having family obligations that prevent more seat time. The truck started up right away after connecting the new ECU. It holds idle at 650 rpm in gear with the AC on, and smoothly, which the factory ECU did not do so well, with a higher base idle.
The new engine will really allow the ECU to shine, but even with just a mile on the clock, I can say the benefit is clear. Many thanks go to the Motocam360 team for bringing this to market.
Good to hear I been tuning mine at -15c it was a rough start a few weeks back but I got it going finally. I am now build a new 3 bar map file for it. I still need to find the pin out for the ac as well to make that work. I have a support forum up that Motocam aslo helps with answers, might be a good place for info as well as here.
https://www.facebook.com/groups/326063285336309
https://www.facebook.com/groups/326063285336309
Dan_Austin
Member
The A/C request line is on C9 and is dark green. and has 12v on it when the HVAC switch is in AC or defrost positions. A/C control is on F1 and is Green-White, This one is optional.
Dan_Austin
Member
When I installed the fresh engine, I also went with a set of 75lb injectors. The power of TunerStudio made that change silly simple (after I remembered to actually save the change), with one notable exception. Cranking and Priming pulse widths were way too rich, to the point that flood clear was needed for every hot start. With ambient temps in the 35~40C, even a 'cold' start wasn't that cold. I have that largely dealt with. I also found I wasn't seeing more than 7.5 pounds of boost according to datalogs. Check a few more logged values and note I am not seeing more than 45% throttle, and the boost target table has 150Kpa (7.7lb) for that throttle. Recalibrate the TPS without trying to push the pedal through the firewall, which means I get to use all of the target table now. I mention this as it really reinforces that the ECU software and hardware really does do exactly what you tell it to do, and the level of control it brings to a 30 year old platform is just amazing.
For anyone concerned about the unit cost, the value is definitely there. I went from a stock but tired engine, to a fresh one with a big cam, turbo and oversized injectors. I had a drivable tune in minutes and a fairly refined everyday tune in a few hours of twiddling, all without opening the hood or pulling the ECU.
For anyone concerned about the unit cost, the value is definitely there. I went from a stock but tired engine, to a fresh one with a big cam, turbo and oversized injectors. I had a drivable tune in minutes and a fairly refined everyday tune in a few hours of twiddling, all without opening the hood or pulling the ECU.
MotoCam360
Member
This is great feedback on our Stage1 system Dan - thanks for sharing!!
No need to rewire your entire truck to bring it into the 21st century.... just plug n play
No need to rewire your entire truck to bring it into the 21st century.... just plug n play
MotoCam360
Member
Shipped this Stage1 system to a customer last week in Canada. The customer says his turbo tweak chip would lose the program when the vehicle battery was replaced, then the vehicle wouldn't start or run well at all. Anybody else have this experience with the Turbo Tweak chip when a battery starts to age?
Isthatthingstock99
Member
If I'm not incorrect the stock ECU in Syclones, Typhoons, and Sanoma GT's are all some form of ROM. Which is read only memory. I could be wrong, and its possible they are EPROM. Which is Erasable Programmable Read Only Memory. And for that matter they could also be Prom. Rambling here, but essentially the memory that the Turbotweak chip uses, I believe, can be reset to default settings via disconnection of the negative battery. Which is often times why its best to save the tuned settings to a device or export. So you can either input the settings of your tune back to the chips after they have been re-set to their default settings. Or import them, if the chip offers that feature. The tune is sometimes (Or settings of the ECU) are lost due to the fact that ECU's at the time had, (hopefully this is the correct assumption) no default power to rely on. Without power, the read only memory would be lost after a period of time.
To add to this here as well, its a common misconception that all ROM is completely Non-volatile, that is not correct, and in this case comes down to what type of chips are being used on the Turbo tweak chip. Small portions of the ROM may be volatile, the larger part may not be and vice versa.
A good example is computer motherboards. Motherboards often use a CMOS battery to store the user settings of the computer BIOS and CMOS, much like a car, when that power source is removed (Power supply Unit, and CMOS battery), the settings revert to their default after a period of time.
I'm generalizing the topic but this article here summarizes the concept of what happens very well.
It is also possible that somehow, the battery being disconnected and re-connected was causing an in-inadvertent electrical wipe. So when there is a surge of power back to the ECU, although the memory on the aftermarket chip may be stored in Non-volatile memory, (meaning its not supposed to be erased with the withdrawal of power) it can still be corrupted/deleted because of a surge of input power. It is common to see this also occur on computer Hard drives and SSD's as they utilize a similar chip based input. However, I believe that may not be the case in this specific situation. But as an example its very useful not to overlook the fact that its possible, its just not likely here.
I'm not able to defer what the whole situation is with the ECU, I'm making assumptions here on causes. It could be an innumerable amount of things but from the short description it seems like this information may be relevant to what occurred.
I apologize if there is any sort of mis-information here, please correct me, if you find anything incorrectly explained
.
To add to this here as well, its a common misconception that all ROM is completely Non-volatile, that is not correct, and in this case comes down to what type of chips are being used on the Turbo tweak chip. Small portions of the ROM may be volatile, the larger part may not be and vice versa.
A good example is computer motherboards. Motherboards often use a CMOS battery to store the user settings of the computer BIOS and CMOS, much like a car, when that power source is removed (Power supply Unit, and CMOS battery), the settings revert to their default after a period of time.
I'm generalizing the topic but this article here summarizes the concept of what happens very well.
It is also possible that somehow, the battery being disconnected and re-connected was causing an in-inadvertent electrical wipe. So when there is a surge of power back to the ECU, although the memory on the aftermarket chip may be stored in Non-volatile memory, (meaning its not supposed to be erased with the withdrawal of power) it can still be corrupted/deleted because of a surge of input power. It is common to see this also occur on computer Hard drives and SSD's as they utilize a similar chip based input. However, I believe that may not be the case in this specific situation. But as an example its very useful not to overlook the fact that its possible, its just not likely here.
I'm not able to defer what the whole situation is with the ECU, I'm making assumptions here on causes. It could be an innumerable amount of things but from the short description it seems like this information may be relevant to what occurred.
I apologize if there is any sort of mis-information here, please correct me, if you find anything incorrectly explained
.