Oil pan options?

[proptop]

Yep all the points stated above are good points. I personally line up the return/drain back line up with the cap as to keep the oil from getting caught in the crank windage. The amount of oil is minimal coming from the turbo but it is there. The other thing is that I have a kick-out built into the pan for the oil to get thrown off and into the Screen and a little deeper in the front to clear bigger strokes (3.750). The next subject that should be discussed is Bushing the driver side lifter bores!!!!!!!
Thanks,
Bob

 

[wildphil]

Thanks for all the great info. Will keep an eye on it when the pan gets installed.

On a related note, I think I may have gotten the last new SyTy oil dipstick tube in the country last year. I may have damaged it during installation. If I did I suspect I can repair it, but would like a backup plan. Is there another GM, or other make, tube that is close enough that reasonable efforts to modify will allow it to fit?

These guys do have a lot of good points.

On your dipstick what is damaged? Do you have two bolt or four bolt main caps on the engine? Four bolt caps do interfere with the dipstick for sure the tube for the dipstick does come to close to the cap and does not allow free movement of the stick. Let us know if you have four bolts and you will get ideas on how to make it work. You for sure want to make sure it works well before bolting the pan down.

As far as the dipstick and tube replacement. I am pretty sure they are the same on all Chevy s10 and jimmy 4x4 trucks. You should be able to find a used part.

 

[proptop]

Gents,
I have loaded a few pictures of different four bolt caps that I currently run or have ran in the past. There appears to be a change in design as I am looking at them. Pic 0398 is an old style bowtie two piece main, Pic 0887 is a stock block that has been converted, and Pic 1090 is an older bowtie block with the new style caps. The first two can be run with a modified dipstick tube (slight bend). The last one I don't think will clear and would have to have the dip stick tube in the pan even if the boss is drilled. I have/use two dip sticks in these things due to a vacuum pump and the length of the stick. I don't leave the long one in the motor when it is running. I check it and install a short stick/cap in the hole that is air tight. Hope all of this makes sense.
Thanks,
Bob

 

[Dan_Austin]

The new engine is a converted four bolt. The current engine is unknown and suffering huge blow-by issues, hence the new engine.

The original tube had a split in the bulge. Installing the new one was surprisingly more involved than I had anticipated and I MAY have
flexed the bulge trying to work it into place. I do not know I did harm it, but wanted to have a plan B in case I did...

Thanks again for all the insights...

 

[syclone0517]

Thanks for all the great info. Will keep an eye on it when the pan gets installed.

On a related note, I think I may have gotten the last new SyTy oil dipstick tube in the country last year. I may have damaged it during installation. If I did I suspect I can repair it, but would like a backup plan. Is there another GM, or other make, tube that is close enough that reasonable efforts to modify will allow it to fit?

I'm using a newer second generation stick and tube which matches up to the vortec heads. If you wanted to get creative I'm sure you could make it work.

 

[Dan_Austin]

Vortec heads are going on the new engine tomorrow or early next week, so that is a very welcome bit of info.

 

[TYTILIDIE]

Just my 2 cents here, I never started having oil pan issues until I stqarted using the Stefs pan. I am not saying their pan sucks but, mine leaks badly. It doesn't seal that great on the passenger side rail. You also have to use an extension to get the nuts on the INSIDE of the pan. It isn't the worst thing I have ever done but, it blows if you drop the nut in there, I always use a smidge of grease or gasket maker. The other problem I had with my Stefs pan was that it didn't seem to fit well over the crank and rod journals. I actually had to pull the internal pan parts out and toss them along with doing some shaving. As far as I know, I am the only person that had this issue. Figures right? I ran my truck HARD with my stock pan on the 67GTQ turbo and never had a single issue, with anything.

 

[proptop]

Yep you are correct putting the nuts on is a chore. Sorry to hear about your fitment issues and I would call Stan over there and let them know. The other thing is I have to check/clearance the rear main cap sometimes as it does hit depending on the rear cap being used.
Bob

 

[5YCLON3]

Subscribing to thread since I am in need of an oil pan solution for the motor going in the truck soon.