Ride height question, lowering blocks, bilstein part no.

98ssht

New member
Apologies in advance for these newb questions. I searched archive threads, and couldn’t find exact answers.

My understanding is the factory height for Syclones, measured from floor to apex of wheel cladding, should be 30.0” +/- 0.5” in the rear, 28.0” +/- 0.5” in the front.

My truck is currently sitting at 27” in the rear, 26” in the front. I’d like to raise it slightly, so it bottoms out less, and so that it’s easier to get my jack under it (right now I need to use a low profile jack to get the vehicle up a little before putting my full-size jack under it).

I’m thinking to go 28” rear, 27” front, but I'd like to get some clarification before I start.

1. Is the current 26” height in the front achievable via factory torsion keys? Or is more likely that there are aftermarket keys in there? If it’s factory, I believe can raise it back up an inch just by turning the adjustment screw. Same with aftermarket? Or would keys designed to lower have some upper threshold below what I’m going for?

2. I see there are two variations of lowering blocks for our trucks, for various drop heights. For 2” blocks, there is a straight 2” drop, and there is one for a 2 degree angle. What is the angled one for? Which one is correct for our trucks?

3. Attached is a picture of the lowering blocks currently on the vehicle. The wedge sits at the bottom of the blocks. However, from the HowTune article on lowering Sytys, it shows the wedge at the top of the stack. Which is correct? What are potential issues of having the incorrect orientation of the wedge?
Many thanks in advance to anyone who is able to help
 

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    Howtune lowering blocks 1.png
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    Howtune lowering blocks 2.png
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    Current rear lowered.png
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Last edited:

DaveP's Ghost

Active member
When using lowering blocks in the rear, the dimension between the shock mounting points does not change. So the shocks don't change either.
In the front, the lower a-arm hits the frame before a stock length shock bottoms. So the front shocks don't change.

The angle wedge should be on top so that the u-bolts are parallel with the block, and perpendicular to the plate under the spring. Keep in mind that the weight of the truck "hangs" from the axle tube. You want the load path from the axle tube to be straight into the spring plate. You want the center of the tube over the center of the spring plate. With the angle under the block, the center of the tube is behind the center of the spring plate; the u-bolts are at an angle.
 

98ssht

New member
When using lowering blocks in the rear, the dimension between the shock mounting points does not change. So the shocks don't change either.
In the front, the lower a-arm hits the frame before a stock length shock bottoms. So the front shocks don't change.

The angle wedge should be on top so that the u-bolts are parallel with the block, and perpendicular to the plate under the spring. Keep in mind that the weight of the truck "hangs" from the axle tube. You want the load path from the axle tube to be straight into the spring plate. You want the center of the tube over the center of the spring plate. With the angle under the block, the center of the tube is behind the center of the spring plate; the u-bolts are at an angle.
Thanks so much - much appreciated!
 
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