Full frame off resto

Hey All,

I know its been a very long time since anything new. I do have updates so I will spread over a few posts.

Left off with fractured wrist casted up so I couldn't do much. Few weeks later had the cast cut off but told to take care. Still hurt but slowly my wrist got stronger. Still hurt sometimes now.

Week after the cast was off, broke 2 big toes on my right foot. (Running up the stairs late one night) That hurt way more then my wrist. My foot was swollen bad and black for few days.

Anyways, about 2-3 weeks later, the pain started to subdue and I could begin walk normal....

Can't believe how figgin accident prone I've been. Both totally my fault but trying to work on anything has been a real pain on the ass.

Anyways. Enough blabing on. Sorry guys.

. Now that I have two coats of Por-15 white paint on the floor it looks awsome. Now to do the underside and really make the bottom of this truck rust proof.
Power washing, cleaning and etching the underside of the body revealed a rotten spot - front corner of driver's side rear wheelwell.

Painted the bottom of the truck anyways cause it's ready and I will get to that repair next.
 

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So I've started to remove the cladding. I read somewhere in here the tabs are very brittle. Wow, you guys weren't kidding. I have broken 2 or 3 so far. I know I can fix but it's just another thing.

I wanted to expose the bad wheelwell so that's were I started. As you can see in the pictures below, the spot is quite nasty. However, it's completely hidden by the cladding so it will be hard to screw this up.
 

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Hey all,.

Told you I had updates.

You know what I would like an update on, when the hell a set of connecting rods will be made for this thing. I called the factory(s) myself. They said maybe Nov. Now I hear Dec. Such is life

Anyways I've been busy and old Dad been board. He decided to make the patch panel from the left over floor pan metal. Turned out quite good I must say.

Once I finnaly get over there I can weld this patch in.
 

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Here is a test fit picture of the outside panel. It fits not to shabby. I i still have to make a replacement inner panel/part but again, it's not something anyone's going to see.

I tell you, after this repair is complete, the next step is the engine/trans/transfer assembly install onto the frame. Then mount the body. However with the "expected" delivery date of rods, I've already accepted I'm almost as far as I can go. ☹

Anyways, not quite yet.

T
 

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Ps - for those that look close - the black marks on the bottom of the new panel. These are not holes or rust or hammer marks. It's the black primer the original metal was coated in. I know it looks really rough but it's smooth as anything.

Oh yeah, funny enough, was wandering around a local car show and found my old man's 66 chevy him and I built years ago. I aways wandered what happened to that thing.

T
 

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Thanks guys

As for the cladding - to be totally honest with you, I didnt attempt the cladding until now cause -
a) been worried about seriously damaging the cladding during removal. b) afraid it won't go back on right and look shitty.

Moving the rotisserie in and out of the garage has been quite easy but I did have an accident while back. Pushing the body Close up against the wall I cracked the passenger side rear flare Still together but only just.

I've been thinking maybe fiberglass on the inside. Anyone have any experience with that? I have 3 tabs so far that need reattachment. If doing 'glass, I could make the tabs out of it also.
I did order and receive the replacement cladding rivet kit from Sportmachines so I'm good there.

T
 

Goodgollyjosh

Active member
Glad you're recovered enough to make some progress. It is looking good. Loving the updates. Keep 'em coming. BTW, what rods did you go with? The Eagle H beams?
 
Yes I know its been quite a while.

Haven't really had much to report with regards to the truck. Been really busy at work with the cold weather and all this crazy covid hasn't helped.

I did manage, back in late November/early December to roll the chassis under the body to make space for the old man's car to fit for the winter. Although the garage is heated, way to tight to work.

However, sounds like the motor is almost done. I'm heading over in the morning to drop off a few bolts I forgot to include along with intake and throttle body gaskets. I will get pictures and the full scoop on the motor (some good and some not so good).

Anyways lads,
 
Well, the motor is finally done.

Although I have no place to store it for the time being, once I dropped off the 10K to pay for it, the engine builder has problem keeping it for a month or so.

So once it's not -20C (-4.0F) and we don't have 2ft of snow, I'll bring her home.

So here's what $10,000 gets you in 2021/22 in Canada.

1. Full disassembly of long block
2. Hot tank block and heads.
3. Toss alot of used/broken parts
4. Deck and Square block (very minimal)
5. High output oil pump
6. Replacement (almost new) crank
Apparently the crank is different (weights and shape as compared to regular 4.3 of same vintage) cannot verify. Mine was badly worn.
7. Replacement factory rods. Cannot get forged. But new ones cleaned up well and ARP bolts.
8. Brand new cam. (Ground for syclone/Ty) little bit more duration on ex side.
9. Quality forged Wesco pistons
10. Roller rockers. (1.5 ratio)
11. 3 angle valve job and ARP head bolts
12. Some time spent gasket matching intake and ex ports. Same on intake.
13. - 8.5/1 compression
14. Assembly.


Still a long way to go but one major step ahead has been made.
 

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This pistons came in a set of 8, so I kept one and the other at the old man's place. Be a good conversation peice.

I'm sure lots of you guys have put some serious money into your trucks, but I never had a forged Piston this nice in my hands. Coated on the sides. I'm sure these will be great. Really wanted the forged rods to go with them.

I still have to address the turbo and that's another 1000 bucks.

Probably my last post until I bring the motor home (and I have more pictures to show)

Thankyou to all you who read this and have been watching my progression. I PROMISED, you will see this done.

Give me a month. Maybe 6 weeks. By then, should be starting the drivertrain assembly

Talk soon guys. T
 

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Sy2622

Member
Definitely worth it.
Look at it this way.
In US dollars your looking at roughly $5k back in 1990's when these trucks were built.
 
Hey Guys,

Looks like I will be picking up my fresh motor next weekend.

I purchased a new rad and the oil cooler lines that connect to it.

Can't wait to get the motor back to the shop were start installing all the accessory drive bracket and components. Once i sandblast these I will need to coat them with somthing, I probably powder coat the raw aluminum colour they came, and black por15 any black metal supports, brackets, pullies etc. before assembly.

Still need to get a few parts and need some advice or recommendations.

1 - distributor - new factory? MSD?
2 - Turbo. - was thinking sportmachines rebuild with BatMowheel upgrade and ceramic coating. Anyone have one of these?
3. Gas tank. - I will just get new factory
4. ECU performance chip. Sportmachines maybe?
5. was thinking to replace (also from sportmachines) wastegate, fuel pressure reg, knock sensor, pcv valve, turbo oil supply pipe and intercooler fan.

Any recommendations, any sensors you can suggest or whatever would be appreciated as I'm going to have the motor on the stand and now is the time. I do have the silicone vacuum hose kit and 60 lbs injectors so far.

Sorry guys, no pictures this time. I have some when I bring the engine home.
 

gmemony2

Active member
1. I've never seen any +value over stock distributor as long as your using quality and correct parts. If price is higher for MSD or other brand name I would stick with stock.
4. Turbotweak chip is an option.
5. A lot of the sensors can be purchased off rock auto also as long as your matching part #s correctly. Knock sensor, both temp sensors, probably useful while engines out.
 

IMMensaMind

Member
Terry:

If you haven't yet begun to repair the cladding, I have advice: don't use fiberglass. There is as FAR better product, by Lord Fusor, which is perfect for the type of plastic the cladding is made of. I have used it to repair semi-rigid plastic - including the tabs you've broken - and it's fantastically strong and not at all brittle. You can use fiberglass mesh to reinforce critical areas like the tabs, they'll never break off again.


Fusor also makes a finishing adhesive that feather-edges as well as any flexible glaze, but it's tougher than glaze:


I've used both; HIGHLY recommended.
 
Gmemony2 - I'm definitely big fan of factory parts as they are engineered to work together. I believe I will replace the worn out distributor with a factory one along with cap and rotor. Fairly inexpensive. I did look into the chip you suggested and looks like a good option. I'm going to contact them directly to see if this fits my needs.

IMMensaMind - I haven't heard of this product but thankyou for the recommendation. I have not attempted the cladding repairs as of yet. Only a few tabs and one cracked fender arch bit think I will try this and see what the outcome is. Sounds like this should work well.

Thanks guys.
 
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