Ignition Switch replacement

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Changed my ignition switch today. Now remember I've got a pillar with and elec fuel pressure and elec water temp. ALL the wiring, gauge senders, etc (except the ones one the engine of course, are under the dash and in the way. :roll:

Anyway, remove the center panel under the column which requires removal of the emer brake release cable, lower the steering column. Mine just sorta hung there. The sw, as you know is on top of the column. It has the neutral lockout (cable) attached and the dimmer sw bolted with it. Remove the dimmer first. That gives you access to one last recessed Phillips screw holding the ign sw in place. Now the sw is loose but the lockout cable is attached. Not wanting to bust something that was gonna cost a bundle and/or take forever to fix I was able to get the cable with sw attached up over the column and down where I could actually see the thing. Use a #1 Phillips to remove the 2 little screws holding the cable lockout housing to the switch. Once you do that you can easily see the plastic clip and remove the cable.

HINT the back screw for the dimmer is self-tapping into the ign sw bracket. Run that screw in once before you do the install so there's "threads' to put this screw into when you attach the dimmer. On install this bolt goes in pretty much by feel.

Although not explained well in the directions I found out quickly that the new sw has to be in the on position in order to insert the cable. Once that's done I put the key in the lock position (the place where you can remove it) and put the new sw in the locked position as well, This is one click away from all the way back. Snake the cable and lock back up over the column, hook it on the rod from the key and snug up the first bolt. (The easy one) Make sure the key works through all positions and you can get the key out. Reconnect the wires. The front (nearest the steering wheel) plug goes in first. Test again that the truck starts, runs, turns off and you can get the key out.

Insert the little Phillips screw and tighten. now remove the front bolt so you can install the dimmer.

Reverse everything else and yur done.

Additions, corrections gratefully accepted.:)
 

cameronsclone

New member
Re: Ignition Switch replacement

Great post. I believe this is just what I needed. Was yours stuck in a position between engine on and ignition start? Mine wont return all the way to on from starting it.
 

DaveP

Active member
Re: Ignition Switch replacement

I had a problem with the key not turning from unlock to ignition on a 200K+ mile truck. I replaced the electrical part (as per above) and it still did it. I had to replace the lock-cylinder and key. That fixed it.

I took the column out of the truck and put it on the bench to do the switch. Seemed easier than messing around under there...........
 
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nello

Active member
Re: Ignition Switch replacement

Allow me to add that this job is a total PITA! Probably what you'd expect though. My gorilla hands could barely fit in this jam packed area.

How I was able to tell my switch went out was 1) smoke under the dash at final startup (under dash class charlie :oops: 2) afterwards, when turning the key to "start" I got zero resistance and the key didn't spring back like when starting the truck normally.
If I didn't know any better I woulda thought it had something to do with the ignition components on the column/lock cylinder....but I could smell the freshly cooked switch.

Switch was $10-15 and took me around 2hours to replace. Follow the rod that travels all the way down the column to the switch.
 

Emmo

Member
Re: Ignition Switch replacement

Thank you for a very helpful post Don W.

This is a pain in the neck. Wanted to add some pictures to follow the sequence perfectly explained above.

Four (4) hex bolts and two hex nuts removed to drop column and rest column on wires
IMG_6881.jpg


Showing where all two 8mm hex bolts are (holding dimmer) and where the single Phillips screw (underneath dimmer bracket) that hold everything for reference when mounted on column and you can't readily see it.
NOTE: I had to take off the bracket to the brake level switch to access the black 8mm hex bolt closest to the firewall using a mini 8mm box wrench for dimmer switch removal.
IMG_6888.jpg


Single Phillips that is the last to remove for ignition switch after dimmer switch is off. Use a #1 but must be super short, I used a small drill bit Phillips head with finger tips to turn and lightly pushed column towards passenger side.
IMG_6885.jpg


Hanging cable and lockout cable after final screw is out and pulled over column.
IMG_6883.jpg


Two (2) small phillips screws to help remove cable lock, before unlatching cable from ignition switch.
IMG_6880.jpg


Last note I didn't properly pull the dimmer all the way towards the steering wheel on reassembly resulting in me having to go back in to adjust it towards the wheel when my high beams didn't work. Hence test your high beams too when you test the switch and key positions before bolting up the column again.

Definitely pre-thread the hole for the dimmer on the new ignition switch with the hex bolt closest to the firewall,

Have a good one,
 

aasltmike

Active member
Re: Ignition Switch replacement

Allow me to add that this job is a total PITA! Probably what you'd expect though. My gorilla hands could barely fit in this jam packed area.

How I was able to tell my switch went out was 1) smoke under the dash at final startup (under dash class charlie :oops: 2) afterwards, when turning the key to "start" I got zero resistance and the key didn't spring back like when starting the truck normally.
If I didn't know any better I woulda thought it had something to do with the ignition components on the column/lock cylinder....but I could smell the freshly cooked switch.

Switch was $10-15 and took me around 2hours to replace. Follow the rod that travels all the way down the column to the switch.

x2...replaced mine back at the beginning of January after I came back from holiday leave. By the time I was done, the tops of my hands looked like a cat had used them for a scratching post! Great write-up for a PITA project. :tup:
 

Syclone#2960

What ever it takes!!
Re: Ignition Switch replacement

I started to tinker with the ty today having the same starter click problem. I ruled out it had something to do with my ignition switch. So i started to take the plastic covers off from under the steering colum to discover this fawkn relay sitting there connected to an old alarm I had installed back in the day. Probably some type of starter kill.
Replaced with a diffrent relay and bam the ty started...gunna remove the entire alarm system now and put it all back to stock.

I was using a starter button connected directly to the replaced purple wire and it worked everytime. This how I knew it was something in the igntion key area.
 

Icarus-54

Donating Old Member
Re: Ignition Switch replacement

I had a no start problem with my one ty,thought it was the ign.switch,but it turned out to be someones left over alarm.It took 2 days to finnally get it all out.
 

turbo7521

New member
Re: Ignition Switch replacement

I had a no start problem with my one ty,thought it was the ign.switch,but it turned out to be someones left over alarm.It took 2 days to finnally get it all out.

Im having a similar problem, after driving the truck for over 30 min i shut it off and after 5min or so i go to start it and nothing not even a click ive rplaced the ign switch before but i think i may have todo again! Im thinking there may be a alarm some where in the mix as well causing the problem? Does the factory alarm have a little black box under the dash as well??
 

Emmo

Member
Re: Ignition Switch replacement

Im having a similar problem, after driving the truck for over 30 min i shut it off and after 5min or so i go to start it and nothing not even a click ive rplaced the ign switch before but i think i may have todo again! Im thinking there may be a alarm some where in the mix as well causing the problem? Does the factory alarm have a little black box under the dash as well??

I was down the same path last Spring again with starting issues. About 3 years had a Viper Remote start/alarm/remote lock device installed. I thought the starting problems at the time may have been due to the alarm or the original ignition switch or even the starter (replaced twice already at that time). The alarm was soldered in with many many wires and have since left it. Turned out it wasn't the ignition switch, it was my mini-starter for the third time since I've owned the truck. Make sure to check all the wiring and heavy cables to the starter, starter relay, alternator fuses, and alternator too for signs of grounds / worn insulation. Replacing the ignition switch was worth it though as the turn of the key feels a lot better than with the old 1991 switch, Pete
 

Bichn69

Member
This is a really good old thread and i used it as a guide to replace my ignition switch today. So I went to test it before putting the dimmer switch back together and no start. I noticed the rod bending out of line just a little so i took my finger and held it straight and it started. So i thought i needed to move the switch forward toward the steering wheel but it didn't work. I still need to hold the rod so it will stay straight. Any ideas on what i should try next?
 
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