Recorded a Datamaster file on Ty that's been stored for a long time

Rexxenexx

Member
Just a drive around the block data log. Wonder if you guys can check it out. See if there's anything weird I should look into.
Basically a long time PNO stock 93 Typhoon. Replaced pump (Aeromotive) and fuel pressure regulator (Sportsmachines) among other small non-critical things. Fuel pressure is set to 42 psi.
The only issue I'm having is it takes two tries at least to start up cold. The starter sounds ok and after I took this Datamaster log I replaced the battery (2013 NAPA), but still took two key turns to get it starting even the day after it got settled with the new battery. Once it starts and idles for a sec, it's smooth. Engages gear back and forth no stalling/hesitation.
 

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gmemony2

Member
FWIW, my Sy also takes two turns most times to start. Been pretty consistent like that for a long time and I've never found a rhyme or reason for it. Runs fine after it starts.
 
FWIW, my Sy also takes two turns most times to start. Been pretty consistent like that for a long time and I've never found a rhyme or reason for it. Runs fine after it starts.
Yup same here, on 172,000 miles right now with the stock engine. Maybe at 200,000 it'll start a little better? haha
 

wildphil

I Love My Ty's
I have owned four SyTy's and they all did that. I don't know why they would do that. I would either just hit the starter for a second then turn the key to off then the truck would start the next attempt. Or even turn the key all the way on but not far enough the engage the starter then key off. Then when I hit the starter. The truck would start right up almost every time. I wondered if the issue had to do with fueling but who knows.
 

Rexxenexx

Member
The Ty I owned before didn‘t do this. Also this Ty started up immediately before I decided to unmod it decades ago. Really shouldn’t be a normal thing. Feels like it can’t identify the timing signal, and once it does it hunts for about 6-10 revs then it’s like, “oh there it is” and presto- perfect idle. If I figure it out I’ll post here. But way back I tried new plugs, wires (Sportsmachines ICE wires. Tried new regular Taylor wires 1st), cap, rotor, check timing, clean distributor rotor post, clean and regrease distributor module (couple times), new coil, Sportsmachines vacuum line kit. This is all over about 20 years, some just regular maintenance obviously. I also thought maybe it’s a vac leak, but you can easily tell when you pull the FPR hose to set that there is no vac leak. Is it possible for the distributor module to be dumb cold like how I described, then find a signal? I might have tried a different module at some point, but I’m not 100% sure.
 

wildphil

I Love My Ty's
It would be helpful to many owners if you find out how to correct this. I never did try to figure out the cause. I had so many trucks that there was always something else more pressing to repair on one of them all of the time.
 

Rexxenexx

Member
I’m 100% confident the 1st start issue is something sensor/ecm-wise, but for the sake of history, add Starter to the list of new stuff installed.
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Did nothing obviously for 1st start, but is super quiet compared to the old one. Also I checked the ECM because it’s been so long, I forgot what EPROM was in it. The ECM is a GM Reman. with the BBZB EPROM. Ain’t that some shit!? Lucky. And Dave, if you see this, Key On Engine Off the boost gauge is about 1/4“ above middle (0).

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Rexxenexx

Member
Did you just put a standard replacement starter in? Not one of those mini ones?
It‘s a Duralast Gold replacement for a 1998 Bravada. Smaller than the original, here is a pic of the one I replaced, when it was new, next to the original Typhoon starter:0A507B63-DA48-44CC-B137-33B930FD0A9E.jpeg


The one I took out (in pic right) is also a 1998 Bravada replacement starter which was working. It didn’t have the sound of the Millennium Falcon cranking anymore, plus the terminal was rusted so I figured I better change it before I get stranded somewhere.

Edit: They didn’t have my previous one, maybe the part number changed, but if you could find it it‘s great.E8BC2E2D-11C8-4021-9D5C-6FA05EFC2C11.jpeg
 
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Rexxenexx

Member
Chipotle run today.

edit 5/24/2022:
Changed plugs. Iridium to newer Iridium.
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Rexxenexx

Member
10lbs of boost on the way down to the pier, NO pinging. Dipped into 8lbs of boost on the way back (uphill), pinging.🤷‍♂️ I can go anywhere as long as I modulate the throttle to keep it @5PSI Lol.
No codes. Maybe the intercooler isn’t cooling enough? I know the intercooler pump works, we could hear it when Dave ran it through diagnostics. It’s not really a hot day today too. Also I set timing a long time ago when I did a tune up, @2016 I think, and Dave double checked that too, it was still dead-on.
The good, it‘s fun to drive. Trans is smooth n firm, polar opposite of SyTys I’ve driven or ridden in. None of those basic clunk issues that drive me crazy. No hunting for idle, freakn great man. At a stop I don’t look like ShittyShitty BangBang. Every part, except for tires, I question the condition has been replaced: plugs, wires, cap, rotor, starter, battery. Getting somewhere with this back-from-the-dead Ty 😉
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Rexxenexx

Member
Just adjusted the FPR, at idle, to get the ShortTerm dancing closer to 0%, ended up @38-39PSI fuel pressure Engine Running , Vacuum ON. So it's up there compared to Base setting. With 15PSI boost it'll end up @55PSI max Fuel Pressure? That is walk-in-the-park for the pump, but how about a stock Typhoon? Is that too much fuel pressure or have you guys seen even higher to maintain close to 0% (+-10%) Short and Long Term Trim on stock Tys?
Here is the Datamaster file. Basically initial start-up, adjustment, turn off, turn on, adjustment, turn off, disconnect neg battery term, reconnect batt, turn on. Something like that, you'll see the on/off jumps, about 3 times, one time disconnecting battery.

EDIT: Question, what should Spark Advance be at Idle?
 

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Rexxenexx

Member
This is the boost gauge Key On Engine Off Dave if you see this. I left a message when you asked me to check it out that day. It should be dead center correct?

Edit: Waiting for my laptop to charge so I can pull the data from cruising around with the adjusted fuel pressure. But it looked great dancing between +-3%. Also felt great.

Edit2: Datamaster files uploaded
 

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Rexxenexx

Member
Tried a new Crane cams 2 bar I have, same result. So connect the OEM back. The OEM one is an 012 which is the original to the car 2bar. I think I’m on the right track. Gonna continue this on another forum and if I find the solution I’ll post here.
 

WyoSyclone

Active member
Just a drive around the block data log. Wonder if you guys can check it out. See if there's anything weird I should look into.
Basically a long time PNO stock 93 Typhoon. Replaced pump (Aeromotive) and fuel pressure regulator (Sportsmachines) among other small non-critical things. Fuel pressure is set to 42 psi.
The only issue I'm having is it takes two tries at least to start up cold. The starter sounds ok and after I took this Datamaster log I replaced the battery (2013 NAPA), but still took two key turns to get it starting even the day after it got settled with the new battery. Once it starts and idles for a sec, it's smooth. Engages gear back and forth no stalling/hesitation.
Just looked at your log... looks normal and good. Nothing sticks out as being a problem.
 

Rexxenexx

Member
It’s ok to be +33-43% Short Term fuel trim?

MAP is getting 5.01V and ground continuity is good on the pigtail too. Both sensors, The OEM and a new CraneCams 2 bar, give the same wrong atmosphere reading KOEO on the dash boost/vac gauge. The ECU memcal is a 1580 BBZB. That’s where I’m at. Dunno why the owner replaced the ECU at such a low mileage. Maybe that’s why he sold it, but when I had a rando JDM boost controller, some other “performance” memcal cant remember, and inline fuel pump in the 90’s everything was working perfect up to 14 PSI. All removed @1998 because I didn’t like the pinging when it overboosted.
 
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Rexxenexx

Member
Found a rotted vac connection on the wastegate. Replaced all the vac lines on turbo/solenoid. Still overboosts. Ill post pics when I get home.

Edit: It's not uploading. I attach and nothing seems to happen. Maybe the image is too big, but mobile doesn't say. Anyways, the straight tube to the wastegate popped off when I placed the vac line back on the fpr (resetting the base fuel pressure).
When I installed the new solenoid on the turbo, a couple months ago, I put angled and a straight rubber connectors with hard tube for the vac lines to look original. All new stuff from O'Reillys. The 90 deg rubber look OK, the straight on the wastegate is all cracked. I replaced all for safety with thick wall silicon vac lines. Pretty much how it was in the late 90's except the Sportsmachines vacuum line kit (installed a couple years ago). Same result. Nothing changed, still passes 15PSI on the dash n rattles at WOT.
When I get some time I'll check the wastegate itself. Hopefully after I move I get more time messing with this, but at least it's drivable.

My current checklist:
1. Check if wastegate is stuck
2. Check for the 577th time the wires to the ecm/map connector to try to fix the dashs wrong boost reading.
3. Maybe order a stock everything TurboTweak chip to bypass the tables and other garbage in the BBZB memcal.
4. New tires.
5. Drink.
 
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Rexxenexx

Member
Stuff we checked in the 90’s but doesn’t hurt to check again. Wastegate actuator arm was this much off (pics). Diaphragm held pressure well. Zero’d it, so it should be stock boost (cross fingers). Wastegate itself was nice and loose, but I lubed it more anyways while I could.
Someone did mess with the rod length, the clip was bent out as if the person thought it was a cotter pin. None of us messed with it, so it must have been Road Race Engineering. I fixed it, straightened it out and clipped it facing down instead of up n bent to shet. I’ll post the vac fix pics next. Just need to transfer them from my phone...
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Rexxenexx

Member
For post #18
Damn thing practically crumbled in my hand. Must have been old stock at O’Reillys.

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Edit: So far it feels good. Started instantly first crank today because I guess startups without any previous data in the ECU is better than with (disconnected the neg battery terminal yesterday to work under the pass fender). Still pings up high, but boost doesn’t spike as much in normal driving. Maybe turning up the fuel pressure will help again. Currently It’s back at @43psi for base wastegate testing and again DM looked lean (to me, I’m no expert).
The Ty is past presentable and I don’t have the health to detail anymore, so I’m just gonna drive it as is. I could live with the bugs. Hopefully it stays mechanically reliable as it is now. 🤞
 
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