I here there is a better axles in a newer s-10 or such that handles more power. I am looking to upgrade to c5 rear brakes and a posi diff. I could spend hours looking and researching to get alot of different answers. And i really dont have the time. I want to do this all at once in my Ty, so anyone has some good input i would appreciate it.
best rear axle setup w/ c5 brakes
- Thread starter 92ty#178
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WyoSyclone
Active member
Re: best rear axle setup w/ c5 brakes
Look at this thread...
http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=32921&highlight=rear+end+swap
Look at this thread...
http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=32921&highlight=rear+end+swap
Re: best rear axle setup w/ c5 brakes
Ya i was just told that the newer axle was stronger so i thought i would ask. And when i had it in the air, i didn feel like i thought the posi would. It felt like an open diff. Is it a clutch type that possibly could be burnt out? And what do they put in to replace the c-clips?
Ya i was just told that the newer axle was stronger so i thought i would ask. And when i had it in the air, i didn feel like i thought the posi would. It felt like an open diff. Is it a clutch type that possibly could be burnt out? And what do they put in to replace the c-clips?
'JustDreamin'
Dream: 6LV8 Turbo Bravada
Re: best rear axle setup w/ c5 brakes
There is a heavier duty axle available in '96 or '97 and up trucks. The 8.5" 10-bolt was put in S10s and Blazers with the 4.3L V6 and 5 speed manual. Its a sizable step up from the 7.625" 10-bolt.
C5 rear brakes and LS1 f-body rear brakes are nearly identical (in size), but the LS1 f-body setup is much easier to install. There are some minor differences, but the calipers basically interchange. But the rotors and backing plates do not. Best part (about the LS1 brakes) is all the (conversion) parts are readily available (including brake hoses, parking brake cables, instructions, everything).
The limited slip is an Eaton Gov-Loc. IMO, its crap. You have to have ~100 rpm difference in axle shaft speeds (left to right) to get it to activate. What that means is 1 tire is already spinning. So, its more of a limited spin, not limited slip. Its also a pretty weak case design and is known for going bang at the wrong time. Personally, I'd upgrade to a Detroit Tru-Trak (but that's just me). My plan for my Bravada is to source a 8.5" 4x4 rearend (preferrably with drum brakes because it's cheaper), change the gearset (need a different ratio than the factory offered it with), add a Tru-Trak, and convert to LS1 rear brakes (to go with the C5 fronts that I will soon be running). Be warned, there are 3 axle widths (or lengths): 2wd, 4wd (non ZR2), and ZR2. 4wd is 4" wider than 2wd, ZR2 is another 4" wider still.
C-clip conversions replace the c-clip (which holds the axle from the differential end) with a press on bearing and bearing retainer plate at the brake backing plate. That way, if you break an axle, the only way to loose a wheel is if you break it in between the wheel flange and the axle bearing. However, if you're converting to rear discs, most of them will act like retainer plates and keep a broken axle shaft in place (assuming its broken somewhere in the tube), which a drum brake setup won't do.
'JustDreamin'
There is a heavier duty axle available in '96 or '97 and up trucks. The 8.5" 10-bolt was put in S10s and Blazers with the 4.3L V6 and 5 speed manual. Its a sizable step up from the 7.625" 10-bolt.
C5 rear brakes and LS1 f-body rear brakes are nearly identical (in size), but the LS1 f-body setup is much easier to install. There are some minor differences, but the calipers basically interchange. But the rotors and backing plates do not. Best part (about the LS1 brakes) is all the (conversion) parts are readily available (including brake hoses, parking brake cables, instructions, everything).
The limited slip is an Eaton Gov-Loc. IMO, its crap. You have to have ~100 rpm difference in axle shaft speeds (left to right) to get it to activate. What that means is 1 tire is already spinning. So, its more of a limited spin, not limited slip. Its also a pretty weak case design and is known for going bang at the wrong time. Personally, I'd upgrade to a Detroit Tru-Trak (but that's just me). My plan for my Bravada is to source a 8.5" 4x4 rearend (preferrably with drum brakes because it's cheaper), change the gearset (need a different ratio than the factory offered it with), add a Tru-Trak, and convert to LS1 rear brakes (to go with the C5 fronts that I will soon be running). Be warned, there are 3 axle widths (or lengths): 2wd, 4wd (non ZR2), and ZR2. 4wd is 4" wider than 2wd, ZR2 is another 4" wider still.
C-clip conversions replace the c-clip (which holds the axle from the differential end) with a press on bearing and bearing retainer plate at the brake backing plate. That way, if you break an axle, the only way to loose a wheel is if you break it in between the wheel flange and the axle bearing. However, if you're converting to rear discs, most of them will act like retainer plates and keep a broken axle shaft in place (assuming its broken somewhere in the tube), which a drum brake setup won't do.
'JustDreamin'
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