#$*%&~! done with 700R4 - 80e is coming

[mrweelr]

So I have a brand new RPM street terror motor, RPM headers, PT72GTQ turbo, Nolan tune etc. and I can't even drive the damn truck now because this race built 700R4 won't shift out of 1st. I was changing governor weights to get the WOT shifts where I need them for this motor and after putting two #2 B&M weights and a purple and blue spring in there the POS won't shift out of first. I checked the fluid level with truck warmed up and it's fine. The governor is not binding, cover is not bent either...I give up. This 700R4 has caused me so many headaches and weekends under the truck screwing with valve bodies, governors, converters that won't lock etc. I've had enough and I'm not spending another minute of my free time trying to fix this supposedly race-built 700R4 that never worked properly from day one. Going to get in touch with George Blake and order a built 80e, converter, and electronic controller. It won't be cheap, but at least I'll never have to deal with tranny issues again.

 

[H-TOWN-TYPHOON]

Re: #$*%&~! done with 700R4s - 80e is coming

Re: #$*%&~! done with 700R4s - 80e is coming

http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=60849

I could help you save some scratch on that project.

 

[mrweelr]

Re: #$*%&~! done with 700R4s - 80e is coming

Re: #$*%&~! done with 700R4s - 80e is coming

I'd consider it, but this has to go on credit cards. Sent George an e-mail, we'll see what happens.

 

[midnightbluS10]

Re: #$*%&~! done with 700R4 - 80e is coming

Who built the 700 originally? PM me if you don't want to disclose in public. Thanks

 

[George Blake]

Re: #$*%&~! done with 700R4 - 80e is coming

Sent you an email. I'm looking forward to working with you!
The 700 can only do so much. Something you may check is, put a pressure gauge on it and see if all of your pressures are high.
Governor pressure must overcome TV pressure to allow the shift to happen. If the TV pressure is too high from a stuck boost valve in the pump or a stuck TV valve in the valvebody, it will NOT shift.
If it's just a stuck TV valve, what you can do is get the trans warm, and then jerk the TV cable (not the throttle cable) with the engine running several times to see if you can get it to release. When you pull the TV cable, you should hear the engine rpm change with the increased load from the pump at full TV. If you hear zero change, one of the valves is stuck, whether it's the boost valve in the pump or the TV valve WAY down in the valvebody. The TV valve I'm talking about is the one BEHIND the Throttle valve that the lever pushes on as you pull the TV cable.

 

[Tooky]

Re: #$*%&~! done with 700R4 - 80e is coming

I couldnt tell from your post but is this the 1st and only governor you've swapped? Bad combos of springs/weights can result in a truck that doesn't shift. It might be as simple as trying a different combo (or going back to your original governor). Just a thought.

Remember the B&M/TCI kits contain all very light weights compared to any stock GM governor, I would guess 6000+ RPM high revving N/A small blocks is the market that kit is designed for..

 

[4C FED]

Re: #$*%&~! done with 700R4 - 80e is coming

Bummer...
Need me to come over & pick than one up too? :lol:

 

[mrweelr]

Re: #$*%&~! done with 700R4 - 80e is coming

It's not the B&M spring/weight combo. I've swapped weights and springs dozens of times and this last time it just crapped out for some unknown reason. I went from using #2 and #3 weights to two #2 weights and that should have put my WOT shifts right around 5800-6000RPMs. I took the governor back out a few times and double-checked everything and don't see any problem. The truck just refuses to shift out of first, even if I wind the motor up to redline. I think George is right...one of the valves is stuck or something. I'm done screwing with this junk 700R4 and need a tranny that can handle this motor anyway so time to bite the bullet and upgrade. I will sell the tranny for cheap once I get it out along with the Waller 2500-stall billet 9/11. Thanks for the suggestions guys.

 

[1BADV6]

Re: #$*%&~! done with 700R4 - 80e is coming

How much do you want for the billet 9/11 converter?

thanks,

 

[mrweelr]

Re: #$*%&~! done with 700R4 - 80e is coming

Not sure yet. I paid around $1K for it I think and it is barely used. I haven't even had a chance to really do any boosted launches with it. Will post it for sale once I get the tranny out in a few weeks.

 

[mrweelr]

Re: #$*%&~! done with 700R4 - 80e is coming

BTW, it WOT stalls around 2800 even though it was custom stalled to 2500. This is a killer torque converter. I will also be selling a barely used Gilbert front propshaft.

 

[1BADV6]

Re: #$*%&~! done with 700R4 - 80e is coming

Jeremy,

Contact me when you are ready to sell the converter.

thanks,

 

[TYHOGG]

Re: #$*%&~! done with 700R4 - 80e is coming

what are you looking to get for the gilbert? If the price is right i'll call first dibs.

 

[mrweelr]

Re: #$*%&~! done with 700R4 - 80e is coming

I'll figure it out once I get the old parts out. 80e street/strip build has been ordered and should be done in about a month Now I need to find a reputable place in my area to notch the crossmember and shorten the rear driveshaft. Anyone have any ideas?

 

[cloneman315]

Re: #$*%&~! done with 700R4 - 80e is coming

I still think a 700 can be made to be pretty strong,waller built mine and phill longs trans 3 years ago and they are still running strong,and phill for sure was not easy on his.I just think it is one of those things that some people can just not build them to last.

 

[mrweelr]

Re: #$*%&~! done with 700R4 - 80e is coming

I don't doubt it at all, but this one had problems from day one. Just never shifted correctly. Time to get serious and just do the conversion. The 80e should be done in about 4 weeks. I won't miss that clunky 2-1 downshift or having to wonder if the 3-4 WOT upshift is going to happen halfway down the track.

 

[cloneman315]

Re: #$*%&~! done with 700R4 - 80e is coming

man i will say that one waller built for me and phill works so good,can you maybe get them to fix it?

 

[Tooky]

Re: #$*%&~! done with 700R4 - 80e is coming

I still think a 700 can be made to be pretty strong,waller built mine and phill longs trans 3 years ago and they are still running strong,and phill for sure was not easy on his.I just think it is one of those things that some people can just not build them to last.

I'll give credit where credit is due, for Waller building the fastest known SyTy 700R4s and Phil running insanely low 60 foots. But at the same time, Phil talked about siphoning all his pump gas out at the track and running less than 5 gallons of C16 in his custom fuel tank. How much time did his trans really take a beating? It's not like he was driving around day to day on his "low 10 second tune" hammering it at stop lights as far as I can tell. That's a HUGE difference in wear & tear compared to some trucks IMO. Cloneman didn't you also say your truck only ran 10s one day (3 runs)?

I think anyone who has enough WOT runs on their 700R4 in the 10 second range, (operating at a 10 second power level), is someone who also has had several failures & rebuilds. (Phil's did get rebuilt at least once too, btw.)

I think it's totally unrealistic to expect an AWD 700R4 to last in the 10s, and I mean REALLY last. It would certainly be the exception rather than the rule.

 

[cloneman315]

Re: #$*%&~! done with 700R4 - 80e is coming

that is why i think people Break these trans back to back street run letting them get hot etc,and dont think i dont pound on mine on the street because i do,and i know for sure phill def put the beating on his,all he broke was a output shaft i think but then had it fixed and was never a problem,im sure the 4ls are better its just a cost and build factor.

 

[Tooky]

Re: #$*%&~! done with 700R4 - 80e is coming

What I'm getting at is the fact that running around at "High Boost" means maximum Torque and the maximum chance of breaking hard parts or clutches failing to fully clamp and handle that torque. If you only run your high boost tune once in a blue moon, and drive it around at low boost (low torque) the majority of the time, it's going to be a lot less stress on the transmission.

Thats why if you want to talk about how long someone has got their trans to last, you have to also consider how often they are really stressing it at max load. I'd say that's a huge factor.