4l80e Torque Converters
- Thread starter MikeRenz
- Start date
George Blake
DONATING MEMBER
Re: 4l80e Torque Converters
The 1500 stall isn't the problem. It's the 65 pound weight that will be the problem.
The 1500 stall isn't the problem. It's the 65 pound weight that will be the problem.
myclone
Donating Member
Re: 4l80e Torque Converters
Im using a Coan billet/kabillion disk piece. Dunno how fast since I got crashed into the week before I was going to the track.
I picked a 2600 stall which is a knats ass too tight so Im taking it out and having it restalled to 2800-3000 (2900 would be perfect but Im thinking +/- a 100 RPM will be fine).
Im using a Coan billet/kabillion disk piece. Dunno how fast since I got crashed into the week before I was going to the track.
I picked a 2600 stall which is a knats ass too tight so Im taking it out and having it restalled to 2800-3000 (2900 would be perfect but Im thinking +/- a 100 RPM will be fine).
Re: 4l80e Torque Converters
I have had several converters since I started running the '80e. I started off with a Midwest. It worked great and I was happy, but I kept reading where all the guys on LS1 tech were saying Yank this Yank that. I convinced myself that I was losing performance by not having a Yank so I ordered the best one they had. They had just went to the "indestructible" carbon clutches. I smoked it in short order so while they were fixing it under warranty I called around. Precision Industries convinced me that their "triple disk" converter was the way to go. He said it could handle 1200+ horsepower and that I couldn't hurt it no matter what.
After burning up the Precision twice I began to wonder what I could use that would hold up. I was still using it when I decided to put my drivetrain in this Blazer.
I was discussing my project with a buddy who builds high dollar hot rods for a living. He built a 69 Camaro with twin turbos that has dynoed at around 1000 hp while smoking the tires on the dyno. (They have been offered 200k for this car) It has a stroker LS1 / 4l80e combo and he is using a converter from Bowler Transmissions. He told me that Bowler does stuff for big rod builders like Troy Trepanier, etc and that he is good with high horsepower applications. I called the guy and told him I was building an AWD Blazer with hopefully 700 HP to the wheels and needed a converter I could rely on. He was like "thats no prob" So I gave him all my specs and he sent me the prettiest unpainted billet 'verter I have ever seen. Almost a shame to put it under the vehicle, lol.
Anyways, I have only put about 300 miles on it so far so I can't comment on how it will hold up, but it seems to stall right where it was supposed to and it sure looks like a nice piece.
Bottom line......I guess if you aren't looking for some huge power numbers, pretty much any name brand converter would probably be ok. For the money, the Midwest is hard to beat, IMO. http://www.raceconverters.com/
I have had several converters since I started running the '80e. I started off with a Midwest. It worked great and I was happy, but I kept reading where all the guys on LS1 tech were saying Yank this Yank that. I convinced myself that I was losing performance by not having a Yank so I ordered the best one they had. They had just went to the "indestructible" carbon clutches. I smoked it in short order so while they were fixing it under warranty I called around. Precision Industries convinced me that their "triple disk" converter was the way to go. He said it could handle 1200+ horsepower and that I couldn't hurt it no matter what.
After burning up the Precision twice I began to wonder what I could use that would hold up. I was still using it when I decided to put my drivetrain in this Blazer.
I was discussing my project with a buddy who builds high dollar hot rods for a living. He built a 69 Camaro with twin turbos that has dynoed at around 1000 hp while smoking the tires on the dyno. (They have been offered 200k for this car) It has a stroker LS1 / 4l80e combo and he is using a converter from Bowler Transmissions. He told me that Bowler does stuff for big rod builders like Troy Trepanier, etc and that he is good with high horsepower applications. I called the guy and told him I was building an AWD Blazer with hopefully 700 HP to the wheels and needed a converter I could rely on. He was like "thats no prob" So I gave him all my specs and he sent me the prettiest unpainted billet 'verter I have ever seen. Almost a shame to put it under the vehicle, lol.
Anyways, I have only put about 300 miles on it so far so I can't comment on how it will hold up, but it seems to stall right where it was supposed to and it sure looks like a nice piece.
Bottom line......I guess if you aren't looking for some huge power numbers, pretty much any name brand converter would probably be ok. For the money, the Midwest is hard to beat, IMO. http://www.raceconverters.com/
Six-is-Enough
Use to do a little Boost
Re: 4l80e Torque Converters
I run the Coan 5 disc billet. Super nice piece.Great manners on the street driving around. You do not have to give a ton of gas input to get to move, like some other high stalls I have been in. Not to bad on the strip either. ET's are in the sig.
I run the Coan 5 disc billet. Super nice piece.Great manners on the street driving around. You do not have to give a ton of gas input to get to move, like some other high stalls I have been in. Not to bad on the strip either. ET's are in the sig.
HighPerformanceTrucks
Lift & Shift Specialist
Re: 4l80e Torque Converters
What does "too tight" feel like?
My truck is rougly the same ET and mph as yours w/ a stock cam and te-44 turbo. I was told a 2600 stall would be ideal with the Coan converter. I'm using it mostly for road course track days, auto cross, some driving around the street and occassional drag racing.
Thanks in advance.
Adam
What does "too tight" feel like?
My truck is rougly the same ET and mph as yours w/ a stock cam and te-44 turbo. I was told a 2600 stall would be ideal with the Coan converter. I'm using it mostly for road course track days, auto cross, some driving around the street and occassional drag racing.
Thanks in advance.
Adam
myclone said:
JSM
Active member
Re: 4l80e Torque Converters
I would say you want 2800-3000 for what your doing. I will have to say I think Jeremy's convertor is working like a charm. Easy to drive on street, yet take it to track and it does what we want. Maybe a bit too high for stock turbo but I can't say a 11 sec slip is bad either so it is working well.
I have driven a precision and I felt drivability sucked. Until it gets to stall it feels very loose. Jeremy's drives like a stocker, runs at the track like a monster.
I am sure George will set you up with the best solution.
ivanko barbell said:
I would say you want 2800-3000 for what your doing. I will have to say I think Jeremy's convertor is working like a charm. Easy to drive on street, yet take it to track and it does what we want. Maybe a bit too high for stock turbo but I can't say a 11 sec slip is bad either so it is working well.
I have driven a precision and I felt drivability sucked. Until it gets to stall it feels very loose. Jeremy's drives like a stocker, runs at the track like a monster.
I am sure George will set you up with the best solution.
myclone
Donating Member
Re: 4l80e Torque Converters
On my set up the 2600 takes longer to spool when loading the motor against the brakes. With my old 3k stall and my 60 series turbo spool up was almost instant when boost launching but with the same turbo and the 2600 it takes 7 or 8 looooong seconds for the boost to come up. From a ~20mph roll in 1st gear it spools instantly but I dont roll race unless I have no other choice in the matter.
They may not be an issue on the road course but when staging it is a huge PIA to try to time everything just right and get a decent launch. Im switching to a BB turbo so another 2 or 3 hundred RMP more loose will hopefully be all I need but it does drives like a stocker with the 2600 on the street.
ivanko barbell said:
On my set up the 2600 takes longer to spool when loading the motor against the brakes. With my old 3k stall and my 60 series turbo spool up was almost instant when boost launching but with the same turbo and the 2600 it takes 7 or 8 looooong seconds for the boost to come up. From a ~20mph roll in 1st gear it spools instantly but I dont roll race unless I have no other choice in the matter.
They may not be an issue on the road course but when staging it is a huge PIA to try to time everything just right and get a decent launch. Im switching to a BB turbo so another 2 or 3 hundred RMP more loose will hopefully be all I need but it does drives like a stocker with the 2600 on the street.
George Blake
DONATING MEMBER
Re: 4l80e Torque Converters
The Coan style is a single clutch. They don't make a multiclutch. But it is a very strong design and the diameter is slightly larger being a 10.5". It is much more streetable but doesn't have the housing design(billet) of the PI. The billet cover models are NON lockup. Adam really needs to keep the lockup function. For what Adam is doing, I think it's the best choice. Adam won't be doing much drag style racing (at first anyway
), so the unique behavior of the Coan will do him good. You guys know engines better. Turbos are all different, etc. You guys tell me what stall he should have for the autocross,hillclimb type setup and I'll use his specs and set it up that way when I put the order in.
The Coan style is a single clutch. They don't make a multiclutch. But it is a very strong design and the diameter is slightly larger being a 10.5". It is much more streetable but doesn't have the housing design(billet) of the PI. The billet cover models are NON lockup. Adam really needs to keep the lockup function. For what Adam is doing, I think it's the best choice. Adam won't be doing much drag style racing (at first anyway
George Blake
DONATING MEMBER
Re: 4l80e Torque Converters
Main thing we are looking for when determining what stall you need is at what rpm your engine makes it's torque and HP. If you like that "torquey" feel, then you can't get a 3000/3200 rpm stall or it will be a dog getting on the throttle out of the corner. Remember this isn't a drag racing truck.
Main thing we are looking for when determining what stall you need is at what rpm your engine makes it's torque and HP. If you like that "torquey" feel, then you can't get a 3000/3200 rpm stall or it will be a dog getting on the throttle out of the corner. Remember this isn't a drag racing truck.
HighPerformanceTrucks
Lift & Shift Specialist
Re: 4l80e Torque Converters
Hmmm. I don't want to lose the awesome spool launch that the Syclone is known for, but I also don't want a loosey goosey converter that gives crappy throttle response either. I prefer the "Goldilocks" just right approach. Honestly the stock converter felt about right for all around driving if I can remember that far back. The 9-11 2800 stall converter I used w/ my 700R4 hit hard and worked fairly well after I sent it back to TCS to have it tightened up, but it still was very much an on/off type of feel and was practially useless if I was cruising in OD and I wanted to apply the throttle. I always had to down shift to D first. I still want 1.6X 60 foot times if I decide to do some occassional drag racing, even though I prefer to track day, time trial and autocross my truck with an occassional tarmac hill climb event thrown into the mix. Maybe a high speed road event like the Silverstate classic if I'm bold enough!
Hmmm. I don't want to lose the awesome spool launch that the Syclone is known for, but I also don't want a loosey goosey converter that gives crappy throttle response either. I prefer the "Goldilocks" just right approach. Honestly the stock converter felt about right for all around driving if I can remember that far back. The 9-11 2800 stall converter I used w/ my 700R4 hit hard and worked fairly well after I sent it back to TCS to have it tightened up, but it still was very much an on/off type of feel and was practially useless if I was cruising in OD and I wanted to apply the throttle. I always had to down shift to D first. I still want 1.6X 60 foot times if I decide to do some occassional drag racing, even though I prefer to track day, time trial and autocross my truck with an occassional tarmac hill climb event thrown into the mix. Maybe a high speed road event like the Silverstate classic if I'm bold enough!
