92Typhoon1679
Member
I Have a A/C Problem when i turn it on it the compressor sounds like its Eating its self.
I want to Convert to 134a but i dont know how..
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I want to Convert to 134a but i dont know how..
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A/C Problems
- Thread starter 92Typhoon1679
- Start date
92Typhoon1679
Member
Re: A/C Problems
Actually it gets cold but make a Terrible noise at idle when i rev up the engine it goes away. its not the belt either its a NEW belt. the noise is comming from the compressor itself.
plus does anybody know a web site that tells how to Retro fit R134a..
Actually it gets cold but make a Terrible noise at idle when i rev up the engine it goes away. its not the belt either its a NEW belt. the noise is comming from the compressor itself.
plus does anybody know a web site that tells how to Retro fit R134a..
Syclone#892
Member
Re: A/C Problems
You're going to have to fix the compressor first before you can even think about retrofitting the a/c. Its probably the clutch but most often you should replace the whle unit because the compressor part will go on you later.
Retrofit kits can be bought anywhere around here, I've seen them at k-marts even.
You'll need to take it somewhere have them discharge the a/c then you can replace the comp and accumulator(bomb looking canister) then give it back to the shop and they can recharge it.
Good luck
You're going to have to fix the compressor first before you can even think about retrofitting the a/c. Its probably the clutch but most often you should replace the whle unit because the compressor part will go on you later.
Retrofit kits can be bought anywhere around here, I've seen them at k-marts even.
You'll need to take it somewhere have them discharge the a/c then you can replace the comp and accumulator(bomb looking canister) then give it back to the shop and they can recharge it.
Good luck
Bill Z
Donating Member
Re: A/C Problems
It may be just the clutch on the compressor. But, for some reason, the way they are marketing the AC compressors, it is just as cheep to buy the whole compressor with clutch.
If you get the compressor, to have a warranty, they will require you to get a dryer. Then all you have to do to use R134 is to change all of the 'O' rings in the system (which you should do anyway). The 'O' rings cost .50 to a dollar each and you have 5 or 6 of them.
Since every thing is open, go ahead and change the orifice tube. If the orifice tub is full of crap, then you have to flush the crap out of your system. Not hard but you have to do it real good.
The compressor is the big expense. The rest is very cheep compared to the compressor.
The compressor will have instructions as to how much compressor oil to add to the system. Follow these instructions.
After you get it all put back together, pull a vacuum to check for leaks. Now is the time to find them.
Now all you have to do is add what ever Freon you want.
Most of the new stuff will work with ether.
Hope this helps.
It may be just the clutch on the compressor. But, for some reason, the way they are marketing the AC compressors, it is just as cheep to buy the whole compressor with clutch.
If you get the compressor, to have a warranty, they will require you to get a dryer. Then all you have to do to use R134 is to change all of the 'O' rings in the system (which you should do anyway). The 'O' rings cost .50 to a dollar each and you have 5 or 6 of them.
Since every thing is open, go ahead and change the orifice tube. If the orifice tub is full of crap, then you have to flush the crap out of your system. Not hard but you have to do it real good.
The compressor is the big expense. The rest is very cheep compared to the compressor.
The compressor will have instructions as to how much compressor oil to add to the system. Follow these instructions.
After you get it all put back together, pull a vacuum to check for leaks. Now is the time to find them.
Now all you have to do is add what ever Freon you want.
Most of the new stuff will work with ether.
Hope this helps.
Re: A/C Problems
Bill gave you some good advice one other thing 134a will not cool as good as r12. To get it to do the best it is capable of install an electric fan for in town driving. Also use 80 percent of the standard R12 charge. I have had better luck with a product called fr12 with no adverse loss of duct temperature like 134a will give.
Bill gave you some good advice one other thing 134a will not cool as good as r12. To get it to do the best it is capable of install an electric fan for in town driving. Also use 80 percent of the standard R12 charge. I have had better luck with a product called fr12 with no adverse loss of duct temperature like 134a will give.
EcSy#2671
Si vis pacem, para bellum
Re: A/C Problems
If you don't want to change to R-134a then look for a thing Called Hot Shot. It is a cheap sub for R-12 and it works in the same Temp. and Pres. range. It works perfect in a R-12 system. The trouble it is a little hard to come by unless you are A/C tech or a Mech. Any A/C parts house will have it.
If you don't want to change to R-134a then look for a thing Called Hot Shot. It is a cheap sub for R-12 and it works in the same Temp. and Pres. range. It works perfect in a R-12 system. The trouble it is a little hard to come by unless you are A/C tech or a Mech. Any A/C parts house will have it.
Re: A/C Problems
I was having the same problem that 92Typhoon1679 was having....the sound coming from the AC or heater fan sounded like it was eating itself but it still worked. I was on my way home from work today and it just stopped altogether. I haven't checked the ground wire or fuses yet but I believe the AC heater motor more than likely needs replacing.
I have a problem though....I don't have any manuals and I'm not exactly sure what I'm doing so I'm afraid to take it apart and I don't want to pay some guy who charges like $80 bucks an hour to change it out for me. I would rather do the work myself but I don't even know where to begin. Any advice good or bad would be greatly appreciated.
I was having the same problem that 92Typhoon1679 was having....the sound coming from the AC or heater fan sounded like it was eating itself but it still worked. I was on my way home from work today and it just stopped altogether. I haven't checked the ground wire or fuses yet but I believe the AC heater motor more than likely needs replacing.
I have a problem though....I don't have any manuals and I'm not exactly sure what I'm doing so I'm afraid to take it apart and I don't want to pay some guy who charges like $80 bucks an hour to change it out for me. I would rather do the work myself but I don't even know where to begin. Any advice good or bad would be greatly appreciated.
SEL777
One of 101
Re: A/C Problems
Here is a link to the SyTy CD-ROM I just bought it has everything you will ever need for $19. Money well spent. http://www.sportmachines.com/media/cdrom.php
Here is a link to the SyTy CD-ROM I just bought it has everything you will ever need for $19. Money well spent. http://www.sportmachines.com/media/cdrom.php
Re: A/C Problems
Alright guys, I've been searching / reading the service manual / tinkering with the A/C in my Ty for the last couple hours. The other day on start up I heard a clunk from the motor. Opened the hood, didn't notice anything wrong, went to where I had to go. On start up to come home, no a/c. Looks like the clutch is not engaging at all.
So I've followed the trouble shooting tree, and from what I can tell with my POS test light it looks like there is voltage flowing to the sender on the accumulator, and none out. If I'm reading the service manual right, basicly the this is the too high/low of pressure cut off. So my guess would be that the system has a leak and I hit the low pressure cut off point, or I had a total loss of r12 & oil and my compressor finaly seized up. The truck never seemed to happy with the a/c on. When I first bought it the truck would die when I turned on a/c, but it got a little better after a full tune up.
My questions are, are there any of the gauges you see for r-134a that tell you what the system pressure is off the low side that work for r12? how else do I go about seeing if theres any thing left in the system? I don't want to open it up with out evacuating it if theres any left in it.
For those of you that have converted, how much of a difference did you notice in how well it cools? I've seen some posts on here that say r12 gave the a/c cooler temps than the r-134a does.
What I'm planning on is I want a KICK ASS ac system if I'm going to daily drive this bitch. How much did you guys spend aprox for the new orings, compressor w/clutch, dryer, accumulator, all the associated fitings, purge, vac, and charge?
Alright guys, I've been searching / reading the service manual / tinkering with the A/C in my Ty for the last couple hours. The other day on start up I heard a clunk from the motor. Opened the hood, didn't notice anything wrong, went to where I had to go. On start up to come home, no a/c. Looks like the clutch is not engaging at all.
So I've followed the trouble shooting tree, and from what I can tell with my POS test light it looks like there is voltage flowing to the sender on the accumulator, and none out. If I'm reading the service manual right, basicly the this is the too high/low of pressure cut off. So my guess would be that the system has a leak and I hit the low pressure cut off point, or I had a total loss of r12 & oil and my compressor finaly seized up. The truck never seemed to happy with the a/c on. When I first bought it the truck would die when I turned on a/c, but it got a little better after a full tune up.
My questions are, are there any of the gauges you see for r-134a that tell you what the system pressure is off the low side that work for r12? how else do I go about seeing if theres any thing left in the system? I don't want to open it up with out evacuating it if theres any left in it.
For those of you that have converted, how much of a difference did you notice in how well it cools? I've seen some posts on here that say r12 gave the a/c cooler temps than the r-134a does.
What I'm planning on is I want a KICK ASS ac system if I'm going to daily drive this bitch. How much did you guys spend aprox for the new orings, compressor w/clutch, dryer, accumulator, all the associated fitings, purge, vac, and charge?