Build finally begins IT RUNS!

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Some differences in my block. There is no step for the 2 center 4 bolt mains. Also the outer bolts do NOT go into the water jacket.

P9230404.JPG


Caps are flat.

P9230408.JPG


The cylinders are relieved.

P9230405.JPG


P9230406.JPG


Crank in and torqued. If I stop it in the right spot it will go back a little bit by itself. That's how true everything is.

P9230409.JPG


Waiting for cam and degreeing. Will update as work progresses.

P9230410.JPG
 
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jeepruby04

New member
Re: Build finally begins

Re: Build finally begins

Subscribed. How much power are you looking to get out of it?
 

0966Sy

Code what?
I like the straight up outer bolts, I have a .040 stock block ready to assemble with that style cap. The center do have a ridge, can you share some more info on your reasoning behind you leaving yours flat? Drilling into the water jacket never interested me. Although it can be drilled short and shorten the studs on splayed caps.
 

TYTILIDIE

METH HEAD
Re: Build finally begins

Re: Build finally begins

My machine shop told me that the flat style caps are the way to go, mainly because the splayed stuff most us have used is junk. He has this reasoning that makes sense when he explains it but I don't remember it. Something to do with the caps walking. I didn't exactly see it his way but I just assumed he knows whats hes talking about. Who knows, maybe someone with more knowledge of them can chime in.
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Build finally begins

Re: Build finally begins

1) The outer bolts are not straight up and down. They splay out a bit. Hard to tell from the pics. Machinist said he does NOT do stepped caps. To much trouble. Stepped 4 bolt caps need 1 - 2 thousandths between the outer bolt and the block. Next to impossible to do that accurately. He got the caps from Pro-Gram. Apparently they make these all the time. The block is machined to the level of the notch (where a regular cap goes) all the way out to the edge. Will try to get better pics up tomorrow

2) HP? maybe a bit north of 500 on, say, 20# Looking for reliability not stunning numbers. The proof will be in the pudding, so-to-speak. Track numbers will tell all.

3) Hi Mike, hope I answered your question above.

It will be next week before it's timed. I'm gonna be gone 'tween Wed and Mon. Cam is on its way. I'm really looking forward to running this thing.

Thanks.
 

JSM

Active member
Re: Build finally begins

Re: Build finally begins

Splayed caps from an engineering standpoint and preventing the caps from walking can't be matched with straight bolts. No machine shop will convince myself otherwise.

I do agree the multistepped vs flat cap, flat cap is superior.
 

Aeroking

e.i.
Re: Build finally begins

Re: Build finally begins

check your dipstick tube fit around the mains before you button the bottom end up.
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Build finally begins

Re: Build finally begins

check your dipstick tube fit around the mains before you button the bottom end up.

Oh yeah. Thanks. Been looking at that. It'll work when I'm done. These caps obstruct that hole well.
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Build finally begins

Re: Build finally begins

Forgot camera but looked today and the splayed bolts are probably no more than 10*. And BTW between the notches (out by the gasket now) the caps fit as tight or maybe a tad tighter than a stock ones do.

No worries Mike. I suspect it's probably the same idea is all.
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Build finally begins

Re: Build finally begins

Which pistons brand will you be installing ??

These are SRP's. They've been through 3 rebuilds and look new. Except for the top of course. Based on what these have been through I'd recommend them to anyone.

FYI Eagle rods, ARP bolts. Mains, rods, heads (bolts not studs).
 

0966Sy

Code what?
Build finally begins

Build finally begins

Did you bother replacing the eagle rod bolts with arp's or no? I've never heard of any weakness in the eagle rod bolts. Also, did you treat the crank?
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Build finally begins

Re: Build finally begins

Did you bother replacing the eagle rod bolts with arp's or no? I've never heard of any weakness in the eagle rod bolts. Also, did you treat the crank?

Eagle rod bolts are made by ARP, says right on 'em. HOWEVER they are made to Eagle specs per their web site. Consequently they have special torque specs based on their size. See:

http://www.eaglerod.com/mosmodule/bolt_torque.html

No idea how these numbers compare to anything else.

Crank is not treated.
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Build finally begins

Re: Build finally begins

Finally an update, cam is degreed, rods and pistons in.

PA030504.JPG


Heads on. Waiting on lifters. Haven't decided on a brand. Machinist says HP GM's will work fine. Will work on it tomorrow. Front cover, rear seal, modify dip-stick to fit, pan.

PA040505.JPG


Thinking ahead a bit, the unused back water jacket outlet is coroded a bit because no water flows there and, I think, a small air-pocket sits there contributing to the corrosion. What I'm wondering is if anyone has run a little bleader hose from there the t-stat protion of the lower intake?
 

RealFastV6

@jb_and_his_coffee
Why so much weight taken off the crank bob weight? I don't have anything in front of me but looks like a lot. Maybe it's just the pictures.
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Build finally begins

Re: Build finally begins

Why so much weight taken off the crank bob weight? I don't have anything in front of me but looks like a lot. Maybe it's just the pictures.

Maybe the Eagles and the SRPs are light? Dunno. Ran smooth before. Scat crank, balanced is all I really know.
 

It's just a six

Super Member
Re: Build finally begins

Re: Build finally begins

Question about your heads.
What all did you get done to them this time & did you flow test them?
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Build finally begins

Re: Build finally begins

Question about your heads.
What all did you get done to them this time & did you flow test them?

No flow testing, Ran out of money. :rotf:

The ports, manifold side, are smoothed and opened a bit. Not all the way to the valve. At the valve these heads had enough material to smooth and form a "venturi" just above the seat. If you're looking down on the seat on a bench you can see it. Mostly on the "away" side from the port.

4 angle valve job BTW

Not enough money for a through port job so there is a little bit of as-cast material between but not much. Minor cleanup on the exhaust side.

Look at figure 8 here and you'll get the idea but I suspect you already know this.

http://www.popularhotrodding.com/tech/0610phr_cylinder_head_porting/viewall.html

In my book this is kinda old school but I guess it's still done. As opposed to a wide open port all the way to the valve seat.
 
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