Holy crap ! today I started to redo all the important ignition componants I did the cap and rotor first yes it's a conrad! all I got to say is that rotor ain't no punk hard as hell to get off but thanks to good syty people and sites like this one .......I got it!! tommorow plugs and BB wires!!! I'm gonna need a case of Berr for that one!
Damn cap n rotor job ain't no punk!!
- Thread starter DRCLONE2
- Start date
Justin Roberts
New member
The first time I did that job it took six hours with the help of a very competent friend. The next time it took six hours by myself. I had everything sitting around to do it with for about three months the second time. It's just something that I hate to get started on.
nick041881
Member
funny, changing cap and rotor took me all of about 10 minutes! i cant get the dist. shaft bolt loose to chance timing to save my life though!!!
Justin Roberts
New member
I guess I should clarify that the time was for cap/rotor, plugs, wires, and figuring out why the hell it won't start afterward. Still horrible, though. The cap is pretty easy if you take the two relays above it off of the firewall. Two screws hold the bracket on and just push them out of the way. The hose above it can be pulled forward enough to get the cap in and out.
G
Guest
Guest
Cap and roter is a fairly easy job. Tuirning the distributer bolt to adjust timing = remove hood and bloody knuckles and a much better running truck.
Richard Le
New member
I am sure you guys have all done the 3/4 inch heater hose mod, right :smile: This also makes it much easier. Pull the Upper IC off - leaving the hoses connected of course and it leaves a lot more room to get at the C&R or the AFPR should you be doing that anytime soon. I did a post a few months ago about the other benefits of the IC line upgrade - besides performance. I think it went away with the great database crash of '01.
Richard's thingy with the Wheel Key works swell until someone steals your wheel key :smile:
Richard's thingy with the Wheel Key works swell until someone steals your wheel key :smile:
Ian Turgeon
Cascading Inspiration
I was reading this thinking good god, theres alot of complaints for a 10-15 minute job, then realized from GMTurdbo that I have re run my IC lines with heater hose.
A 100% necisary mod on any truck. If I'm going to work on someones truck, I force them to buy heater hose first. Both are easy.
As for the timing bolt, after fiddleing with a distributor wrench, I snuck a wobble and socket onto the bolt NO PROBLEM. No blood, No big deal.
A 100% necisary mod on any truck. If I'm going to work on someones truck, I force them to buy heater hose first. Both are easy.
As for the timing bolt, after fiddleing with a distributor wrench, I snuck a wobble and socket onto the bolt NO PROBLEM. No blood, No big deal.
InvisiBill
Active member
I replaced my cap and rotor while I still had the metal IC lines. I do have a 4.3L S-10, so I've done this before, but this was the first repair I did on the Sy. All I did was remove the relay bracket and loosen the bolt that held the top metal IC line in place, so that I could move it a little more easily. Most of the time was spent trying to work the cap out around the metal line and other stuff in the way. With those metal IC lines removed, it should take you longer to get your tools around than to actually do it.
