Driveshaft Problem

hacaruso

New member
After taking out the 2" lowering blocks on my Syclone, the rear driveshaft will no longer reach the rear. Did they sell a shorter driveshaft with the lowering kit or is there another solution? I could always put the blocks back in but prefer not to.
 

GM TURBO

Sell Out
Ummmmmm.................it could just be me - but that sounds wrong. You shouldn't have to cut/xtend a driveshaft for either lowering or raising a truck 2 inches. Are you the one who lowered it - or was it lowered before you bought it?
 

Hu Ryde

Donating Member
The drive shaft has about an inch or more of forward and back play. Pull it out some of the transfercase some and bolt it up. This movement is normal.
 

hacaruso

New member
So the driveshaft is supposed to slide in and out of the transfer case a couple of inches? I can't get mine to budge and don't want to force it.
 

ed hess

race or get outta the way
Out of curiosity, do the wheels look like they are still centered in the wheel wells. i.e you didnt bolt the rear down onto the springs offset to the rear. The oem setup has a little wedge in it that puts a downward angle on the differential which makes it point downwards on the pinion to the front. Are these still in place?

ed
 

hacaruso

New member
Yes the wedges are in place with the thicker part towards the rear. Can't figure out why it reaches with the blocks in but won't reach without them??
 

hacaruso

New member
No it won't slide in and out of the transfer case. I guess I'll have to drop the extension housing and see whats wrong.
 

syclonekid43

New member
check to see if the wheels are centered in the wheel wells on my truck the rear end looks to be foward a little bit i dont know if they should be like thet but thats how the truck was when i got it and mine also had 2 inch lowering blocks which i switched for 3 inch blocks and never had a problem with the driveshaft fitting when i get a chance ill put my truck up and try to see how long it is for you
 

syclonekid43

New member
check to see if the wheels are centered in the wheel wells on my truck the rear end looks to be foward a little bit i dont know if they should be like thet but thats how the truck was when i got it and mine also had 2 inch lowering blocks which i switched for 3 inch blocks and never had a problem with the driveshaft fitting when i get a chance ill put my truck up and try to see how long it is for you
 

SY2932

Administrator
You're in luck, my truck is transmissionless in the garage awaiting a new torque converter. Measured the length of the rear driveshaft and it is 42 and 3/4" long. This measurement is from the housing for the U-bolt to the other U-bolt housing ON THE driveshaft itself. I did not measure off the yoke going into the transfer case... Seems that your driveshaft is a little frozen in place, have you tried really tugging on it a little yet? HTH's

Mike Campbell
 

myclone

Donating Member
I might be missing something here but you just took out 2" lowering blocks. Correct? If so you HAD to slide the driveshaft foreward to get it out of the pinion yoke on the rear. Which means it needs to slide back towards the rear to mate up to the pinion yoke.

Sounds to me like there is a burr or garbage on the splines of the output shaft of the xfer case that has gotten the front yoke stuck. Get a hammer and LIGHTLEY tap on the front yoke toward the rear. Go easy with the hammerage as you dont wanna beat it to death if something else is going on.

Oh, BTW... Ya might wanna wrap a couple of turnes of electrical tape or the like around the rear u joint to keep from losing the cap(s) and needle bearings while your fighting with the drive shaft.

HTH
 
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