Getting Syclone #845 Back on the Road

So a few months ago I acquired this Syclone from Santa Rosa CA, which needs some work, and now that I've got some money, I would like to start getting her back on the road. She has 142k miles, and a new engine installed at 95k miles according to receipts from 1999.. No need to reply about everything, just one or two things at a time since this is long lol :). So feel free to comment. I'll be asking question on specific things as I go a long. So here's the list

1. Important stuff:

***DONE*** New control arm bushing and Alignment done. Right now I have them adjusted by eye so the truck will go straight ish. I'm not sure how to get them properly adjusted.

***DONE***New tires. Front and rear are mismatched.

Propshaft hits the bottom of the truck when Engine Braking. Not sure why, but I was told that it's not the stock propshaft. It does look beefier than stock too. Or maybe bad Engine mounts? I'm not sure yet.

Viscous clutch is LOCKED. So I have the propshaft removed and its RWD right now. I'm sure it was due to the mismatched tires, resulting in the locked clutch, then a broken CV Axle (I got new ones with the truck that have been installed), then it sitting, then it ending up in my hands :). So I'm not sure if I can just rebuild the T case myself at home? Or if I would be better off getting another good, used T case? This is probably my biggest issue.

***DONE*** Truck Runs OK, until it gets warm.. After a few minutes of driving it around the block, the idle will start getting rougher and dip, and sometimes just die. Maybe needs new fuel pump? I know I need to get a cable to help diagnose these issues. It also seems to dump a lot of boost pressure when you really get on it. I can really only go about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle or it falls on its face. Truck does have new brass teminal cap, rotor, and plugs. I'll get into more details later.

(See Picture) Someone mounted a TOGGLE SWITCH for the Intercooler pump. So whenever the truck is running I have to flip the switch on to keep the coolant circulating. I don't like this and would like to turn it back to stock. Are they supposed to come on Automatically? Or when they reach a certain temperature?? What circuit do I need to wire this to? Also the pump is just laying unmounted in the engine bay where the battery originally goes. So I'd like to get that mounted.

Need to get the Pillar gauges properly hooked up, wired, and working.

Need to buy exhaust tubing and run exhaust all the way back (See picture). Not too important though. It stops right after the silencer.

***DONE*** Need to SMOG the truck since I live in dumb ass California. I do live in one of the 2 county's where I only need to smog it once instead of every 2 years, so I'm pretty fortunate :)

2. Less important things that still should be asessed:

***DONE***I want to remove the lowering blocks and bring the truck to its stock ride height. I don't plan to race this truck anytime soon, and I live in the mountains (SONORA CA). So where I live, I the truck will scrape when entering my driveway, it will see some gravel/rough roads with potholes here and there, some shallow snow, parking lot curbs/ chalks, etc. So I would like to protect the bottom and Cladding from the terrain. Whenever I plan to autocross, or get cornering performance, I can always reinstall, or probably get much better suspension altogether. But for right now, it's a truck.

The Rear brakes are DISC, out of a camaro or something. I don't know if this is good or bad, but I assume I have no more ABS. Also the parking brake doesn't work because of this, and they need to be bled. Honestly I don't know why they did this, and I'm not sure what to do yet.

The bed has a hole cut above the fuel pump, so I guess thats ok for when I need to replace it.. I would at least like to clean it up and make a nice door over it.

***DONE*** The previous owner relocated the battery in the bed on the passenger side, but I re relocated it behind the passenger seat in a battery box, since there was already a perfect hole for the + cable to go through.


3. COSMETICS:

MISSING the Wiper Cowl. Will a cowl from a regular same-gen Sonoma, S10, or S15 work? Can't seem to find one.

The front passenger side cladding is cracked (See picture). Need to fix that somehow.

Grill has a couple cracks, might fix or just replace it.

TOP of dash is cracked. Needs replaced or might just put a carpet cover over it for now.

Could use some new door panels but not too bad. One has a crack.

Needs new side window and Door seals badly

Needs stereo system. There's also a rats nest of wiring where is WAS.

Could use new carpet and has NO Headliner. I looked up the headliner for this gen Sonoma's & S10s and damn they are like 500 bucks!! Might have to hold off on that.

Passenger side window motor is very weak.

Needs a PAINT JOB which will be done in the near future. ***Repainting this Spring***

The frame has WALNUTS in it from SQUIRRELS!! Need to remove those! Also need to clean the surface rust of the frame and paint it or something. I was thinking of bed lining the frame and maybe the undercarriage to protect it? Tell me what you guys think.



SO that's all I can think of that Needs/Should be done besides zip tieing wires and cleaning things up etc. No need to answer all my questions at once or anything. One thing at a time haha. I know this is a fairly long post, so thanks for reading, and any input is greatly appreciated. This is an incredibly awesome truck with lots of potential, and I am Very lucky I was able to snatch it up. (Will tell story later :). I've Always wanted one! Anyways, I'll be keeping this thread going for a while and updating this as I discover more, Thanks!

~Matthew


PS If anyone lives in the Sonora/Modesto CA area or near by, let me know! It would be cool meet someone with a SyTy. I'm sure I've got the only one in Tuolumne county!
 
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Re: Getting Syclone #845 Back on the Road

http://[URL=http://s1064.photobucket.com/user/MPMX94/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-11/D7E8E9DC-6619-43B3-A5B5-0C691FF5777B_zps1xocom9d.jpg.html] [/URL]







No Wiper Cowl



Bad Window & Door seals





What is this thing that is missing the cover?







Intercooler Pump Toggle Switch......





Cracked Dash Top





Pictures seem to be making things look worse than they actually are lol



Battery behind seat.





No Headliner







Fuel pump hole.



Well that's all of my pics. That was a pain in the ass to upload
 
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TYTILIDIE

METH HEAD
Re: Getting Syclone #845 Back on the Road

Thats a big list man.

What are your tire sizes, what wheels?
 
Re: Getting Syclone #845 Back on the Road

Yes it is, but it doesn't all need to be done to get her on the road. Just things to get done over time. The rear tires are 245/50R16 and front are 225/50R16 and very worn. Stock Rims
 

wildphil

I Love My Ty's
Re: Getting Syclone #845 Back on the Road

I bought my black Ty in Sonora. Drove it to Tennessee from there.

That truck does need a little love. But you can do it a little at at time.
 
Re: Getting Syclone #845 Back on the Road

Wow how long ago was that? I never would have thought one lived here. Maybe they will see me driving my Sy and want to talk to me about it.

Yeah I'm 'Hoping' to get her road worthy (AWD working right, Tires, and running good/Alignment done) for less than a grand. Then I can start making her nice again. But we'l see :)
 

wildphil

I Love My Ty's
Re: Getting Syclone #845 Back on the Road

It was in 2006. The guy I bought it from was a dealer. I think he would just buy certain vehicles to resell.
 
Re: Getting Syclone #845 Back on the Road

What do you guys think I should do about my locked Tranfer case? Am I able to rebuild it on my own? Or should I just get another used one? Also what should I do about my Toggle switched Intercooler pump?

And are my pictures still showing up? There not showing up now on my iPad right now, there's just a question mark..
 

2500avalanche

Well-known member
Re: Getting Syclone #845 Back on the Road

For the transfer case, try to find one used from a reputable seller on here. To rebuild one correctly will cost you . Check cobratransmission.com
Good parts
What do you guys think I should do about my locked Tranfer case? Am I able to rebuild it on my own? Or should I just get another used one? Also what should I do about my Toggle switched Intercooler pump?

And are my pictures still showing up? There not showing up now on my iPad right now, there's just a question mark..
 

dgoodhue

BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Getting Syclone #845 Back on the Road

No, the auction compatibility is incorrect. The transfer cases are 89-91 and 92-95. Its a 93, you would need to change your driveshaft for it to work. I would not buy a used transfer at this point, they are all approaching 25 years old and IMO are going to have a high probability of being locked. I would just rebuild yours, they aren't they that hard to do. The viscous coupler itself is a sealed device. You just need to swap that out, replace the chain (they stretch over time), and replace the seals.
 
Re: Getting Syclone #845 Back on the Road

No, the auction compatibility is incorrect. The transfer cases are 89-91 and 92-95. Its a 93, you would need to change your driveshaft for it to work. I would not buy a used transfer at this point, they are all approaching 25 years old and IMO are going to have a high probability of being locked. I would just rebuild yours, they aren't they that hard to do. The viscous coupler itself is a sealed device. You just need to swap that out, replace the chain (they stretch over time), and replace the seals.

So an 89-91 Astro T case would work without modification? I've been looking on different sites (eBay, Sportsmachines.net, OEM parts websites) and I cannot find any rebuild kit or V clutch. Do you know where I could get the parts? And most of the eBay sellers "guarantee" the T cases to be in 100% working order, so I would think there not locked up. But idk. I would love to rebuild it if I can get the parts
 

dgoodhue

BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Getting Syclone #845 Back on the Road

1. Important stuff:

New control arm bushing and Alignment done. Right now I have them adjusted by eye so the truck will go straight ish. I'm not sure how to get them properly adjusted.

Truck Runs OK, until it gets warm.. After a few minutes of driving it around the block, the idle will start getting rougher and dip, and sometimes just die. Maybe needs new fuel pump? I know I need to get a cable to help diagnose these issues. It also seems to dump a lot of boost pressure when you really get on it. I can really only go about 1/2 to 3/4 throttle or it falls on its face. Truck does have new brass teminal cap, rotor, and plugs. I'll get into more details later.

(See Picture) Someone mounted a TOGGLE SWITCH for the Intercooler pump. So whenever the truck is running I have to flip the switch on to keep the coolant circulating. I don't like this and would like to turn it back to stock. Are they supposed to come on Automatically? Or when they reach a certain temperature?? What circuit do I need to wire this to? Also the pump is just laying unmounted in the engine bay where the battery originally goes. So I'd like to get that mounted.

You need to the truck aligned by a shop or alignments. I have some alignment tools. I initially did mine by eye by looking at the rear wheels and body work to get started. I way off when put the camber tools and started measuring. I was surprise how far off I was, maybe your results will vary. What I initially had would have chewed the tires up quickly. (i.e. good enough to drive to an alignment but that is about it.)

You definitely need to address the truck cutting out. The engine misfiring like that could quickly damage the motor. Another thing is that if it had a GM crate motor in 1999, it is very likely it has the incorrect pistons. IIRC Somewhere around 1996 is GM replacement motors were pretty much all wrong for SyTy's. New vacuum lines, good ignition parts, fuel filter, fuel pump are probably all a good idea to get the basic parts to start troubleshooting additional issue.

The factory IC pump programming in the stock chip barely ever turned on. The override switch probably isn't a bad idea, but every aftermarket chip I have seen basically runs the IC continuously. If your going to use the stock chip, you can ground the IC pump relay so it run constantly or use the switch you currently have and connect it switch power source so it doesn't run when the key is in the off position. (it maybe wired this way anyways)
 

dgoodhue

BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Getting Syclone #845 Back on the Road

So an 89-91 Astro T case would work without modification? I've been looking on different sites (eBay, Sportsmachines.net, OEM parts websites) and I cannot find any rebuild kit or V clutch. Do you know where I could get the parts? And most of the eBay sellers "guarantee" the T cases to be in 100% working order, so I would think there not locked up. But idk. I would love to rebuild it if I can get the parts

This where I got my parts. I guess sometimes you need to replace the bearings, but my truck has low miles so I didn't do that.

https://cobratransmission.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=3_2080
 

dgoodhue

BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Getting Syclone #845 Back on the Road

PS If anyone lives in the Sonora/Modesto CA area or near by, let me know! It would be cool meet someone with a SyTy. I'm sure I've got the only one in Tuolumne county!

I have been to CA only once, but it was for a business trip to Modesto. I am pretty sure my hotel was in Sonora. I know there is/was Syclone owner on the highway between Modesto and SF (I want to say it was halfway between), because I was going to try to meet up with him on that trip.
 
Re: Getting Syclone #845 Back on the Road

I have been to CA only once, but it was for a business trip to Modesto. I am pretty sure my hotel was in Sonora. I know there is/was Syclone owner on the highway between Modesto and SF (I want to say it was halfway between), because I was going to try to meet up with him on that trip.

Wow that's really cool. Sonora is the smaller town about 40 miles from Modesto, kind of hidden in the mountains
 
Re: Getting Syclone #845 Back on the Road

You need to the truck aligned by a shop or alignments. I have some alignment tools. I initially did mine by eye by looking at the rear wheels and body work to get started. I way off when put the camber tools and started measuring. I was surprise how far off I was, maybe your results will vary. What I initially had would have chewed the tires up quickly. (i.e. good enough to drive to an alignment but that is about it.)

You definitely need to address the truck cutting out. The engine misfiring like that could quickly damage the motor. Another thing is that if it had a GM crate motor in 1999, it is very likely it has the incorrect pistons. IIRC Somewhere around 1996 is GM replacement motors were pretty much all wrong for SyTy's. New vacuum lines, good ignition parts, fuel filter, fuel pump are probably all a good idea to get the basic parts to start troubleshooting additional issue.

The factory IC pump programming in the stock chip barely ever turned on. The override switch probably isn't a bad idea, but every aftermarket chip I have seen basically runs the IC continuously. If your going to use the stock chip, you can ground the IC pump relay so it run constantly or use the switch you currently have and connect it switch power source so it doesn't run when the key is in the off position. (it maybe wired this way anyways)

Yeah I just have the adjustment Cams for the Control arms done by eye. I want to replace the control arms, and just take it to a shop.

Also, I have more receipts for new Pistons, rings, pins, etc, that were replaced in 2003, probably because of what you just said. Also a different Cam, and a bunch of other stuff I can list. I run the truck occasionally but that's it. Im too afraid to keep running it because of the way it runs. I don't want any catastrophic engine failures haha.

So I guess the pump isn't a huge deal? Maybe I'll just leave it then. But I do want to make it nicer since it looks like crap lol

EDIT Here is a $7,028 reseipt I have from 1999:

DAYCO 84006 PULLEY
TANK GASKET SET FOR RADIATOR
VICTOR MS16154 INTAKE ***
MOTOR MOUNTS
FAN CLUTCH
49126-4100 TURBO CHARGER ***
12515321 F-EN Z79/R9 GOOD WRENCH ZR903 4.3L ENGINE ***
And other tune up parts are on the list.

And a Reseipt for new Cylinder heads from 2002 Part #306-01625 $216

Reseipt for PISTONS Part # TWR-L2441F And Rings from 2002

Receipt for a Roller Camshaft Part # CRN-1439811 5/30/2003 $302

KYB-565048 MONOMAX front and rear shocks


Just thought I would throw these out there. I have much more in reseipts but these are the bigger things
 
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dgoodhue

BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Getting Syclone #845 Back on the Road

Wow that's really cool. Sonora is the smaller town about 40 miles from Modesto, kind of hidden in the mountains

Oops, i look through my email receipts and I actually stayed in Salida, when I went to Modesto. I did a bunch of travel for that company, so it all kind of blended together.
 
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