Re: Goodbye old & rusted...The Ty gets updated.
What are your plans for a motor build? We all know it is going to be a full re-build. You will end up finding things that justify it, even if they are small. When do you think your truck will be on the road, I'll race ya:lol: Looking good though, I really like your air box, I used the stock air box and moddified to keep it simple but it sucked. I am having the original 3" hole where the coupler mounted sealed off with fiber glass as we speak. Can't wait to see how this turns out for you:tup:
:rotf:
Yes, at first I was just going to replace the valve guide seals, lifters, pushrods, rockers, timing chain, oil pump. I thought I might need to replace the bearings, so those were added to the list.
Once I got the bottom end opened up, I started thinking about a cam, I also have a set of L35's sitting in the garage as well as some TRW forged pistons.
I didn't want to get bogged down in another rebuild though. It was running quite good with the exception of KR which I'm pretty sure was due to the broken motor mount.
So I made the decision yesterday to go with the original plan with the addition of main studs.
I have ordered everything I need to finish up the motor & get it sealed back up. It should be back together by next weekend. I'll get another block and build it up rather than fart around with this one. I want to start driving it again.
That leaves all of the little things left to do:
1. Replace all of the convoluted wire loom in the engine bay. Some of it is heat damaged, & most of it is to big for the wires it contains, so I can save some space by squeezing it into a smaller i.d. loom. Add additional heat protection to those wires that need it. Re-route wires in the interest of cleanliness. You won't see much by the time I'm done.
2. Replace the fuel return line with braided steel line. Insulate both lines from the body & frame so that don't create unwanted noise.
3. Clean & paint the front of the frame. This may also include removing the inner fenders & sending them out for powdercoating.
4.While the motor & trans are out, undercoat the bottom with second skin audios' Spectrum.
5. Finish up the airbox. I'm going to try to do it in fiberglass. Just need to get the supplies to make the plug & mold.
6. The battery will have to be relocated again thanks to the airbox. I'll probably get a larger battery than the PC680 as it really doesn't have enough reserve capacity for my taste.
7. Replace all ball joints, pitman arm & control arm bushings. I bought new tires & I don't want to ruin them.
I probably won't be done until January.
