Help - Motor Mount Replacement

[TYFOON]

Hi. I have a bad left motor mount on my Ty. The motor comes up 1-2 inches when you torque it up. What is the best way to replace it? How much stuff has to come off and is it possible with just raising the motor an inch or so? You help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
TYFOON
Lee's Summit, MO

 

[mrweelr]

Re: Help - Motor Mount Replacement

You're going to have to lift the motor up some to get the old one's out - a cherry picker would make things easier. I did this with the tranny out, but I would assume it could be done with the trans still in. IMO, it helps a LOT to have the exhaust manifolds and crossover out. I didn't have to mess with the drivetrain at all. You'll want to pull the front bumper and heat exchanger out too - that's where you'll get your 15mm wrench around the three nuts that hold the driver's side mount in. I put some pics of my solid mount installation here:

http://www.geocities.com/jdonavich/SyTemp/SolidMounts/

Be real careful when jacking the motor up. I ended up pushing my fuel lines into the body, not enough to damage them, but stupid nevertheless. Having the truck up real high on 6-ton jacks makes life easier as well. Good luck, will you use new OEM mounts or solid?

 

[SY2932]

Re: Help - Motor Mount Replacement

Jeff Scott's excellent write up here. This a NOT a project for the faint hearted...

 

[Ty0279]

Re: Help - Motor Mount Replacement

It's a real pain in the ass.

I had to remove the propshaft, & front differential to get the driver's side out. :rant:

 

[93ty475]

Re: Help - Motor Mount Replacement

What I want to avoid in this upcoming job if at all possible is removing the exhaust manifolds....the long bolts that go through the mounts on my truck are able to be removed without becoming trapped by the exhaust manifold....Must you absolutely, positively have to remove the exhaust manifolds to do this? didn't someone on here get away with this?

Also, I mated up the JS pads and moroso solid mounts in my living room and noticed they have a little bit of play when mated via the long bolt...could that be the vibration people are getting at startup?

The JS pads are a very nice piece of work by the way....they even have a "p" and a "d" laser cut in them to distinguish which is which....the laser cutting is perfect....the powdercoating is top notch....I tested the finish by tapping a sharp edge of one pad to the flat surface on the back of the other pad to see if it would chip the black finish and it didn't....yes, I was bored when I did that ....

 

[Timbo]

Re: Help - Motor Mount Replacement

...they even have a "p" and a "d" laser cut in them to distinguish which is which....

I hope they used capital letters or underlined them or something.

 

[93ty475]

Re: Help - Motor Mount Replacement

I hope they used capital letters or underlined them or something.

actually, now that you made me think about it, it's a "P" and a "D"....they're unmistakable markings...JS thought ahead on these pads....good catch anyway....

 

[1SLOSUV]

Re: Help - Motor Mount Replacement

when we did the drivers side we went thru the wheel well and jacked the motor up bout three inches. not to high trans still attached didnt pull anything off. it was a task of a job but luckily i have small enough arms and hands to fit thru small places. but it only took like 3 hours to do the drivers side. not too bad. but i dunno bout the passengers side.
________
buy vapir vaporizer

 

[JSM]

Re: Help - Motor Mount Replacement

actually, now that you made me think about it, it's a "P" and a "D"....they're unmistakable markings...JS thought ahead on these pads....good catch anyway....

If you only knew the real reason they are there. GRIN.

The slop you mentioned will be quickly gone, once you tighten the bolt down. If I left them really tight, be that much harder for motor to slide down.

You can do them without removing exhaust manifolds, it isn't fun though and you might be just as quick to take them off anyways.

Just think to yourself as you do it, I will never have to do this again. It helps.

 

[mrweelr]

Re: Help - Motor Mount Replacement

Pulling the inner fenders out is highly recommended as well. That should only take 15 mins. or so.

 

[sy2207]

Re: Help - Motor Mount Replacement

I just replaced my motor mounts with the JS solid mounts. It took only a day to get everything swapped. Fortunately for me the rubber on the factory mounts stayed in one place and I could easily access the bolt heads on the block. This is with 82,000 mi.

The only thing I removed to access the motor mounts was the inner fenders and I lowered the front differential by pulling the four bolts. I just lowered the diff from its stock location, I didn't remove it completely. I thought it was much easier than loosening rusted manifold bolts and possibly cracking them. Pulling the differential nuts hidden in the frame I used an offset 18mm wrench and it fit perfectly.

For the top bolts on the mounts attached to the body, a 15mm gear wrench will be your best friend.

Brian

 

[cloneman315]

Re: Help - Motor Mount Replacement

how is it with them solid motor mounts ?im building a new motor and need mounts does it vibrate real bad?

 

[SY2932]

Re: Help - Motor Mount Replacement

Those who have done this mod say it is well worth the trouble KNOWING that you will never have to mess with motor mounts EVER. I haven't heard on any complaints going to solids. Hope to do it one day so that I can "loose" my engine tie down:

"DIY tie down, NO drilling required. Bolt is a 10.9 cut down and rethreaded."

 

[sy2207]

Re: Help - Motor Mount Replacement

I am about a month from firing up the thing. My buddy in town swapped them on his sy and he says he has a little vibration at idle and full throttle but relatively smooth at cruise. What sold me on them is the shifting. He said he can feel the truck accelerate as it shifts instead of just asorbing the movements. This truck is his daily driver and he says the vibration isn't overly bothersome.

 

[VermontTy]

Re: Help - Motor Mount Replacement

Cloneman; as long as you've got the motor out; put solids in. Stockers seem to fail over time, and it's a perfect time to do it; $70 or so for pads and moroso mounts is a no-brainer.

I cheated and installed mine with no motor and nothing but the front diff in, and still had to remove the drivers front, and passengers front diff mounts to let the diff drop down enough to get the 15mm up under the frame pad to to the nuts.

I put the mounts on the motor, mounts on the frame loosely with a thin coat of grease between the pad and mount, then dropped the motor on so they could move around a little to ease motor installation. Tightened them up afterward with the manifolds on and diff roatated down, all the time muttering "I'd shoot myself in the face if I had to do this on a fully assembled truck without a lift."

 

[jjorgensen52]

Re: Help - Motor Mount Replacement

It can be done with the differential and front suspension installed, with the fenders out... I've done it :rotf: ... now, what size is the long bolt that goes through the solid mounts?

 

[canadian]

Re: Help - Motor Mount Replacement

Is everybody jacking the motor up by the oil pan? Thinking about tackling this, just don't want to crush anything doing something silly.

 

[mrweelr]

Re: Help - Motor Mount Replacement

No...for God's sake, don't jack the engine up with the oil pan! Use an engine hoist (cherry picker). You can rent one for like $30, get the kind that comes apart. Be careful when lifting the engine, the fuel lines can get crushed between the bellhousing and the body.

 

[NecroWolf]

Re: Help - Motor Mount Replacement

i know it's not the best way but i've jacked up engines before using the front crank pulley

 

[Jer]

Re: Help - Motor Mount Replacement

No...for God's sake, don't jack the engine up with the oil pan! Use an engine hoist (cherry picker). You can rent one for like $30, get the kind that comes apart. Be careful when lifting the engine, the fuel lines can get crushed between the bellhousing and the body.

I've raised engines up using a jack and a wide, flat board. Why is this so bad??