Question for those with Brodix heads.
- Thread starter 10secTy
- Start date
turbodig
Active member
Re: Question for those with Brodix heads.
Anthony has got the goods on this setup... might want to get in contact
with him.
Long and the short of it- as I understand it, they physically fit, but your
plug boots end up being so close that they melt all the time. (Even coated
ones)
Maybe stuff could be engineered... HPC high temp coating, followed by
header wrap... might keep 'em cool enough?
later,
Dig
10secTY said:I was wondering if anyone has ever bolted up a set of stock exhaust manifolds to a set of strait plug brodix heads? I need make sure the spark plugs with still clear the manifolds. I know its a long shot but if anyone has some info please chim in.
Thanks
Nolan
Anthony has got the goods on this setup... might want to get in contact
with him.
Long and the short of it- as I understand it, they physically fit, but your
plug boots end up being so close that they melt all the time. (Even coated
ones)
Maybe stuff could be engineered... HPC high temp coating, followed by
header wrap... might keep 'em cool enough?
later,
Dig
ghettosled
SYTY SUPERSTORE
the problem with the straight plug brodix is they are not at the same angle as the stock heads.. they aim them down a few degrees (better anlge into the combustion chamber) which is why they still need to be modified with the ATR headers. Eventhough the plugs stick straight out like stock, they are pointed down slightly.
I doubt the angle plug would even bolt up.
I doubt the angle plug would even bolt up.
turbodig
Active member
smeagol said:
That's probably a better way to go about it.... as I understand it, they
aren't stocking these heads much, so they need to get cast and machined
anyway.
I doubt you'd see that much of a performance hit from the position change.
If you were really going for it, you could tweak the chamber a bit to get
the charge positioned nearer to the plug's final location. Your CNP ignition
will help things a bunch, too.
Just thinkin' out loud...
Dig
ghettosled
SYTY SUPERSTORE
you probably have to specify you need the stock plug angle, and not just a straight plug design. It takes them months as it is so you may be better off buying blank heads, and drilling/taping the plug holes yourself.
10secTy
Sy-Ty builder and Tuner
Ya Anthony contacted me last night (thanks dude!) He told me the spark plugs where so close to the manifolds that the plug boots would barley touch the manifolds. He could not keep wires in the truck and kept melting them.
I was hoping I could use these heads with stock manifolds so that I would not have to fab headers. I love the manifolds and there reliabiltiy.
My buddy Zsolt called and told me he has his motor out of the truck with the strait plug brodix heads and will bolt on the stock manifolds and take pics for me. I will post them up when I get them.
Nolan
I was hoping I could use these heads with stock manifolds so that I would not have to fab headers. I love the manifolds and there reliabiltiy.
My buddy Zsolt called and told me he has his motor out of the truck with the strait plug brodix heads and will bolt on the stock manifolds and take pics for me. I will post them up when I get them.
Nolan
Anthony
New member
I had my manifolds coated with JetHot 2000, which did zilch for heat control. A better manifold coating may indeed help.
What lasted the longest for me was the MSD race boots with the ultra-expensive Moroso plug booties. I got about 200 miles out of those before half of them burned through. There might be better stuff out there to use, but it gets spendy to keep trying.
While we are on it, does anyone know if KB headers will work with the straight-plug Brodies?
What lasted the longest for me was the MSD race boots with the ultra-expensive Moroso plug booties. I got about 200 miles out of those before half of them burned through. There might be better stuff out there to use, but it gets spendy to keep trying.
While we are on it, does anyone know if KB headers will work with the straight-plug Brodies?
When I ordered mine they, weld up the angeled hole & redrill-tap them straight. Almost looks like they might do it by hand. Or they certainly didn't have sy manifolds to put on for plug clearance.
Don't know if it's the diff. in the dr-pass. manifolds or just luck , but the dr's is no prob. But the pass. is big prob.
I fixed #s 2 & 4 using Jacobs ceramic tubes. But even had to mess with them some. But they'll never burn out. #6 is to tight for the thickness of the Jacobs. So I'm using a Accell high temp boot , but here's the trick. I wrap some sheet mica wround it. Just enough room. Like .010.
This stuff is like sheet stone & won't burn.
Don't know if it's the diff. in the dr-pass. manifolds or just luck , but the dr's is no prob. But the pass. is big prob.
I fixed #s 2 & 4 using Jacobs ceramic tubes. But even had to mess with them some. But they'll never burn out. #6 is to tight for the thickness of the Jacobs. So I'm using a Accell high temp boot , but here's the trick. I wrap some sheet mica wround it. Just enough room. Like .010.
This stuff is like sheet stone & won't burn.
'JustDreamin'
Dream: 6LV8 Turbo Bravada
I'm not sure if fiberglass would stand up to the heat. Most of the fiberglass cloth I've seen (like for welding blankets and oven door seals) is only good to like 1000 degrees F. Now, that might be enough, but that might be a little short of the mark also.
I'd think some of the ceramic fabrics would be better (most are good to 2300F or so). Or vermiculite-coated fiberglass (good to 1500F).
Just my 0.02.
'Dreamin'
I'd think some of the ceramic fabrics would be better (most are good to 2300F or so). Or vermiculite-coated fiberglass (good to 1500F).
Just my 0.02.
'Dreamin'
10secTy
Sy-Ty builder and Tuner
Hehehe now this is funny I called Brodix and talked to them. They are very helpfull and spent alot of time with me give measurements etc. I explained to him the problem with the downward angle of the strait plugs on the heads. He said that is the one thing they cannot change . It has to do with position in the chamber and water jacket etc. I think it has more to do with we dont want to change our CNC program. Any way after we came to the conclution that nothing could be done he suggested I call Jim at 248-xxx-xxxx as he has dealt lots with this stuff. I Said whats his last name oh its Stokes hehehehehe.
Nolan
Nolan
JustDreamin said:
How thick are those fiberglass prouducts? The mica I got is .012 & you couldn't have anything in there much thicker without it touching the man. & plug which would provide direct heat transfer. And what ever you use can't be pourus because the spark will go right through it.
'JustDreamin'
Dream: 6LV8 Turbo Bravada
Hey DecoDave....
Most of the products I looked at were from McMaster Carr (big mailorder catalog house based in NJ). Thinnest stuff I saw was .025" for the coated fiberglass. I think the ceramic stuff was .032". It was woven cloth.
Here's a question, and it is only because I don't understand completely. Why does it have to be a solid material? Air in little pockets (and not moving) is a great insulator. Its the goal of fiberglass house insulation. I don't know if the materials we've talked about have good dielectric strength or not. If it did, do you think it would it be suitable?
'Dreamin'
Most of the products I looked at were from McMaster Carr (big mailorder catalog house based in NJ). Thinnest stuff I saw was .025" for the coated fiberglass. I think the ceramic stuff was .032". It was woven cloth.
Here's a question, and it is only because I don't understand completely. Why does it have to be a solid material? Air in little pockets (and not moving) is a great insulator. Its the goal of fiberglass house insulation. I don't know if the materials we've talked about have good dielectric strength or not. If it did, do you think it would it be suitable?
'Dreamin'
