Should I disable EGR on stock Ty?

[RS25.com]

So I looked around and saw all the talk about disabling and removing the EGR. It appears to have a positive effect on horsepower and performance, and a negative effect on mileage and cylinder temperatures. I don't really care about the mileage, or I figure I could just rig something where it's easy to re-enable.

So the question is, should I disable the EGR? Will I damage the truck? It's a 92 Ty with 8,000 miles on it and the 160 thermostat is the only real mod.

Tell me what you think - I do not want to do anything that could potentially damage the engine, and I know that higher cylinder temps will increase the chances of detonation.

 

[Will_in_China]

Re: Should I disable EGR on stock Ty?

So I looked around and saw all the talk about disabling and removing the EGR. It appears to have a positive effect on horsepower and performance, and a negative effect on mileage and cylinder temperatures. I don't really care about the mileage, or I figure I could just rig something where it's easy to re-enable.

So the question is, should I disable the EGR? Will I damage the truck? It's a 92 Ty with 8,000 miles on it and the 160 thermostat is the only real mod.

Tell me what you think - I do not want to do anything that could potentially damage the engine, and I know that higher cylinder temps will increase the chances of detonation.

You will need a chip like the ultimate with EGR disable or burn your own...

-Will

 

[RS25.com]

I thought it made the CEL flash a code 32 but that was it... is there no performance gain without a chip?

That would suck!

 

[Will_in_China]

I thought it made the CEL flash a code 32 but that was it... is there no performance gain without a chip?

That would suck!

I think it puts the truck in limp mode if it flags that code...
Can someone verify?

-W

 

[Coloty]

I believe so too.................truck ran like doo doo when I forgot to plug the EGR back in after cap/rotor install.

 

[Tooky]

On my Sy with stock chip(s), disabling EGR by simply plugging the vacuum line on the EGR canister thing off the intake manifold, caused my intake temps will drop dramatically and I had no other problems except a Code 32 cruising at highway speeds about once a week. Sometimes it goes away on its own and sometimes it doesn't go away until you shut off the truck. But who cares. The only real "problem" is while the check engine light is actually illuminated, your boost will be limited to base boost (8-10#). So if you get the check engine light, just stop and turn the truck off, pull out the key, and then restart it. Very simple, it's only minorly annoying.

If your truck went into limp home mode or anything else, I would be extremely surprised.

RS25.com, I would definitely try this mod. It takes about 7 seconds to perform start to finish, not including the time to find the golf-tee or whatever you use to plug the vacuum line. It takes an equal amount of time to reverse it if you decide not to do it.

 

[Will_in_China]

On my Sy with stock chip(s), disabling EGR by simply plugging the vacuum line on the EGR canister thing off the intake manifold, caused my intake temps will drop dramatically and I had no other problems except a Code 32 cruising at highway speeds about once a week. Sometimes it goes away on its own and sometimes it doesn't go away until you shut off the truck. But who cares. The only real "problem" is while the check engine light is actually illuminated, your boost will be limited to base boost (8-10#). So if you get the check engine light, just stop and turn the truck off, pull out the key, and then restart it. Very simple, it's only minorly annoying.

If your truck went into limp home mode or anything else, I would be extremely surprised.

RS25.com, I would definitely try this mod. It takes about 7 seconds to perform start to finish, not including the time to find the golf-tee or whatever you use to plug the vacuum line. It takes an equal amount of time to reverse it if you decide not to do it.

Sweet!
How much did your mats drop?
I heard the code threw more, which would make it suck...
I would definitely consider 8# of boost limping, although not actually limp mode.
Hate for that f'er to come on under a WOT blast against some idiot...

-Will

 

[InvisiBill]

What Tooky said. By just pulling the vac line on my Sy, the intake temps went from 178-180*F cruising at 60 down to 110-115*F, with the highest spike in normal driving being 125*F. I have a hotwired Jabsco and rubber IC lines with stock CAC and CCHE. You're also keeping all that nasty exhaust crap out of your intake too, which doesn't really improve anything, but avoids degradation of what's there.

In four tanks of gas, I've seen the CEL twice, and both times it went away by itself after a few minutes. I haven't noticed any real drop in gas mileage either. I'm thinking the 30% reduction in intake temps may cancel that out...

I think EGR is disabled at WOT, so you wouldn't have to worry about it throwing a code in the middle of a run or something. I've only seen it cruising down the freeway at a steady speed. See http://syty.net/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=14976 for more details of how the EGR system works...

 

[RS25.com]

I think I need to go get a golf tee, as mentioned above.... this sounds like an easy way to get some more power.

Oh, in case you're wondering why I wanted to do this, it's because I was looking at www.WhiteTyphoon.com and saw their dyno charts. Granted, they are using custom chips, the difference "with" vs. "without" the EGR is like 20hp and 40ft-lbs at (I think) a 1psi difference in boost. Unless I am reading it wrong (probably!) :lol:

http://www.whitetyphoon.com/nwstp_dyno/index.html

Steve P's Typhoon
Ultimate Chip
T1-15 (EGR Enabled): 323.7 HP @ 4200 RPM and 424.3 FT-LBS @ 3700 RPM
T1-16 (EGR Disabled): 348.8 HP @ 3950 RPM and 464 FT-LBS @ 3950 RPM
T2-20 (EGR Disabled): 385.8 HP @ 3950 RPM and 512.4 FT-LBS @ 3950 RPM