B
Blake
Guest
Here's what I found out while going through my trials and tribulations with my Ty's tranny. I had to pull mine 3 times in a week because of different problems I will tell you about later so you don't make the same mistakes I did. Wish somebody would have told me. I got to where I could pull the tranny in 1 hour and 15 or 20 minutes. Wish I couldn't brag about that.
Use some kind of smal storage containers(like styrofoam coffee cups) and mark what your screws are for when you place them in individual containers SO YOU DON'T LOOSE THEM :smile:
Anyway:
Disconnect the TV cable from the throttle body and bracket. This way you don't tear up your cable when you lower the tranny slightly later.
Get the truck up high as you can. Autozone has an SUV jack that can go 21". This way you don't have to crib anything up. Just get some heavy duty 6 ton jack stands, they go much higher than the 4 ton. Get front and rear both off the ground and the truck even as possible. Make sure it is secure and stable. Use cribbing if you have to in order to get the truck STABLE. No one wants to hear of someone dropping a truck on themselves because they weren't careful.
Take off the tranny pan and drain the fluid into a catch pan. I used a tupperware clear storage container(like you get at Walmart). It is 5 inches deep, 18 inches wide and 30 inches long. Holds lots of fluid. Put the pan back on.
Use some paint and mark the respective points on the rear shaft's universal to the yoke on the rear differential. Take the four 7/16" bolts that hold the rear driveshaft to the rear differential. Spray with PB blast. Take a small prybar and pop it out. Hold onto it while you pop it out so it doesn't fall.
If you have a tranny adaptor, put it on the jack and jack it up until you just make contact with the tranny pan plus a little extra pressure. Just a little.
Use PB Blast whenever possible.
I remove the trans crossmember first after the rear driveshaft. Use a 15mm socket and remove the two mount bolts on the bottom of the shelf for the mount. Put another jack(I have two)under the crossmember. Just put it up until it makes contact.
Use a 15mm deep well socket with a 3" extension and a 15mm wrench to back up the bolts and nuts when you remove them from the crossmember where it meets the frame. Do the driver's side first since it will hold itself up. Then do the passenger side. Lower it. Check your "shelf" for the tranny mount. The weld on the passenger side of mine was cracked. Look closely. I could just see daylight through mine. It was only $13 to have the whole thing professionally rewelded. They did triple welds on both sides of all welds(even redid the ones that weren't broken). They guy told me GM didn't do the best job he had seen. GM's weld didn't even penetrate the steel.
Now for the mount bolts that hold the mount to the transfer case adaptor. Use a closed end 15mm wrench. Get on the bolt head and work it slowly with PB Blast and the wrench. Once it breaks loose. Work it back and forth. And then take it out. Take your time on these. Don't use a socket on them. It will catch at a slight angle due to the tranny mount interference and as soon as the bolt breaks loose you will snap the head off or crack the adaptor. The adaptor is $64. HuRyde has the part number.
Now take off your front driveshaft. I use a 3/8" 12 point closed end wrench on the front and a 7/16" close end 12point on the rear. The way my propshaft is made, torx type socket that is made for the bolts won't clear the double cardan in the rear and catch at an angle. Something here that helps: take out the cotter pin and slip the shift cable off of the manual lever on the tranny. Hang the cable back out of your way. Now you can shift it between park and neutral while you are working on the prop without having to get out from under the truck.
You can take the TC inspection cover off now. USE THE PROPER TORX BIT. I can't stress that enough. The previous owner tried to use an allen wrench. It only caused headache for me.
Use a big flat head screwdriver to get under the mounting pads of the TC and turn it until you can get a 15mm closed wrench on the bolts. Use the srewdriver to back up the TC so it doesn't turn while you take the bolts out. There are 3 of them. I took a 15mm close end wrench and cut the open end off. I could then use a small 3/4" copper pipe and break them loose. DON'T PULL TOWARD YOUR FACE. I have an ER visite for my chin and a nasty infection to show for it. Duh!!! Don't turn the TC too fast or the compression from the engine will turn it back the other way. And the screwdriver can get you. Uh, yeah :smile: These 3 bolts have orange locktight on them. You can now slide the TC toward the tranny ever so slightly.
On to the transfer case. With the front prop and tranny crossmember out, you can get to the transfer case to transmission bellhousing brace easily. Use a shallow 14mm socket and your wobble extensions connected together so you get a slight arch to clear the tranny pan. Break it loose and get it out. The bolt is very long. You will have to leave it in the the brace sleeve but loose from the bellhousing. Now you can use a 15mm shallow socket on the rear bolts that hold the brace to the bracket on the transfer case. You take out the two that face up and down. The other two that actually hold the brace bracket to the transfer case you leave alone.
Wiggle the brace out.
Use a shallow 10mm to take the screw out of the little bracket on top of the transfer case that holds the fuel lines to the transfer case. Disconnect the electrical connector for the speedo out of the side of the transfer case. Also use a pair of small pliers and squeeze the spring loaded clamp on the vent for the transfer case. Slide the clamp forward and carefully pull the rubber hose off of the white plastic vent.
Now the hard part use a 15mm deep and shallow with extensions in different combiniations to get the 5 bolts out that hold the transfer case to the tranny. Leave the bottom one in. That way the transfer case doesn't spin down on you. IT IS HEAVY. I didn't drain mine. 1 and 1/2 quarts of tranny fluid can't weight that much. If this is the first time you have taken it out, it won't spin. It probably won't move. Back out the bottom bolt but leave a few threads of the bolt in the transfer case so transfer case can move but not spin. Now, grab ahold of the tail end of the transfer case where the rear driveshaft went into the transfer case. Work it up and down while pulling or pushing toward the rear. Some fluid that was trapped in the rear of the adaptor where the governor is will pour out as the transfer case moves toward the rear of the truck, use a small pan or some towels to catch it. It is very heavy. Have someone help you get it out. Really. Unless you are in a hurry like I was myself. There is a gasket between the transfer case and the tranny adaptor. I made mine from 1/16" inch gasket material like you get at any autoparts store using what was left of the stocker so I don't know the part number. Don't use form a gasket or anything like that. It can contaminate your tranny fluid or jamb stuff up, like a governor that is right beside it and is very important to shifts as well as some other valves.
This is a lot to read, I'll give you the rest later today.
George Blake
Use some kind of smal storage containers(like styrofoam coffee cups) and mark what your screws are for when you place them in individual containers SO YOU DON'T LOOSE THEM :smile:
Anyway:
Disconnect the TV cable from the throttle body and bracket. This way you don't tear up your cable when you lower the tranny slightly later.
Get the truck up high as you can. Autozone has an SUV jack that can go 21". This way you don't have to crib anything up. Just get some heavy duty 6 ton jack stands, they go much higher than the 4 ton. Get front and rear both off the ground and the truck even as possible. Make sure it is secure and stable. Use cribbing if you have to in order to get the truck STABLE. No one wants to hear of someone dropping a truck on themselves because they weren't careful.
Take off the tranny pan and drain the fluid into a catch pan. I used a tupperware clear storage container(like you get at Walmart). It is 5 inches deep, 18 inches wide and 30 inches long. Holds lots of fluid. Put the pan back on.
Use some paint and mark the respective points on the rear shaft's universal to the yoke on the rear differential. Take the four 7/16" bolts that hold the rear driveshaft to the rear differential. Spray with PB blast. Take a small prybar and pop it out. Hold onto it while you pop it out so it doesn't fall.
If you have a tranny adaptor, put it on the jack and jack it up until you just make contact with the tranny pan plus a little extra pressure. Just a little.
Use PB Blast whenever possible.
I remove the trans crossmember first after the rear driveshaft. Use a 15mm socket and remove the two mount bolts on the bottom of the shelf for the mount. Put another jack(I have two)under the crossmember. Just put it up until it makes contact.
Use a 15mm deep well socket with a 3" extension and a 15mm wrench to back up the bolts and nuts when you remove them from the crossmember where it meets the frame. Do the driver's side first since it will hold itself up. Then do the passenger side. Lower it. Check your "shelf" for the tranny mount. The weld on the passenger side of mine was cracked. Look closely. I could just see daylight through mine. It was only $13 to have the whole thing professionally rewelded. They did triple welds on both sides of all welds(even redid the ones that weren't broken). They guy told me GM didn't do the best job he had seen. GM's weld didn't even penetrate the steel.
Now for the mount bolts that hold the mount to the transfer case adaptor. Use a closed end 15mm wrench. Get on the bolt head and work it slowly with PB Blast and the wrench. Once it breaks loose. Work it back and forth. And then take it out. Take your time on these. Don't use a socket on them. It will catch at a slight angle due to the tranny mount interference and as soon as the bolt breaks loose you will snap the head off or crack the adaptor. The adaptor is $64. HuRyde has the part number.
Now take off your front driveshaft. I use a 3/8" 12 point closed end wrench on the front and a 7/16" close end 12point on the rear. The way my propshaft is made, torx type socket that is made for the bolts won't clear the double cardan in the rear and catch at an angle. Something here that helps: take out the cotter pin and slip the shift cable off of the manual lever on the tranny. Hang the cable back out of your way. Now you can shift it between park and neutral while you are working on the prop without having to get out from under the truck.
You can take the TC inspection cover off now. USE THE PROPER TORX BIT. I can't stress that enough. The previous owner tried to use an allen wrench. It only caused headache for me.
Use a big flat head screwdriver to get under the mounting pads of the TC and turn it until you can get a 15mm closed wrench on the bolts. Use the srewdriver to back up the TC so it doesn't turn while you take the bolts out. There are 3 of them. I took a 15mm close end wrench and cut the open end off. I could then use a small 3/4" copper pipe and break them loose. DON'T PULL TOWARD YOUR FACE. I have an ER visite for my chin and a nasty infection to show for it. Duh!!! Don't turn the TC too fast or the compression from the engine will turn it back the other way. And the screwdriver can get you. Uh, yeah :smile: These 3 bolts have orange locktight on them. You can now slide the TC toward the tranny ever so slightly.
On to the transfer case. With the front prop and tranny crossmember out, you can get to the transfer case to transmission bellhousing brace easily. Use a shallow 14mm socket and your wobble extensions connected together so you get a slight arch to clear the tranny pan. Break it loose and get it out. The bolt is very long. You will have to leave it in the the brace sleeve but loose from the bellhousing. Now you can use a 15mm shallow socket on the rear bolts that hold the brace to the bracket on the transfer case. You take out the two that face up and down. The other two that actually hold the brace bracket to the transfer case you leave alone.
Wiggle the brace out.
Use a shallow 10mm to take the screw out of the little bracket on top of the transfer case that holds the fuel lines to the transfer case. Disconnect the electrical connector for the speedo out of the side of the transfer case. Also use a pair of small pliers and squeeze the spring loaded clamp on the vent for the transfer case. Slide the clamp forward and carefully pull the rubber hose off of the white plastic vent.
Now the hard part use a 15mm deep and shallow with extensions in different combiniations to get the 5 bolts out that hold the transfer case to the tranny. Leave the bottom one in. That way the transfer case doesn't spin down on you. IT IS HEAVY. I didn't drain mine. 1 and 1/2 quarts of tranny fluid can't weight that much. If this is the first time you have taken it out, it won't spin. It probably won't move. Back out the bottom bolt but leave a few threads of the bolt in the transfer case so transfer case can move but not spin. Now, grab ahold of the tail end of the transfer case where the rear driveshaft went into the transfer case. Work it up and down while pulling or pushing toward the rear. Some fluid that was trapped in the rear of the adaptor where the governor is will pour out as the transfer case moves toward the rear of the truck, use a small pan or some towels to catch it. It is very heavy. Have someone help you get it out. Really. Unless you are in a hurry like I was myself. There is a gasket between the transfer case and the tranny adaptor. I made mine from 1/16" inch gasket material like you get at any autoparts store using what was left of the stocker so I don't know the part number. Don't use form a gasket or anything like that. It can contaminate your tranny fluid or jamb stuff up, like a governor that is right beside it and is very important to shifts as well as some other valves.
This is a lot to read, I'll give you the rest later today.
George Blake
