Any Ideas why my Typhoon will not start?

[Jeasen]

I am the guy with the Typhoon with the broken #1 cylinder wall. You can follow my progress with the repair in my post titled "Engine Removal". Motor is back in the truck and everything is hooked up and it is ready to start. Except it will not start? The only thing I did not do was add coolant.

I figured that my problem would be with spark being the truck has sat for 10 years in a broken and semi disassembled state. The first thing that I did was to pull the #1 spark plug and turn the engine over. It has a nice strong spark. I installed a fuel pressure gauge and have 45 of pressure when I turn on the ignition and when I turn off the ignition the fuel pressure holds steady at 40 pounds.

I pulled the #1 spark plug again and it was dry and did not seem like the injectors were firing so I unplugged the fuel injector harness and checked to see if the injectors were getting power with a test light. At first when the motor starts to turn over the light does not flash but after a second or two the light flashes. I guess the motor needs to build a bit of oil pressure before the computer lets the injectors fire. I then pulsed the injectors manually and the fuel pressure drops when I do so. You can hear the injectors clicking when I pulse power to them.

I plugged the injector harness back together and tried to start it again. No go. I pulled the #1 spark plug and it was wet with gas. I probably squirted to much gas into the cylinders while manually testing the fuel injectors. While I had the spark plug out I tested the spark again and it was good. I tried to start it again but no go. I will wait awhile and try again.

What else should I do to get this thing started? What am I missing? Does anyone have a copy of the "No Start Trouble Tree" that they can email to me or post a link to one? I did a search but could not find one.

 

[Timbo]

Check compression and timing. The distributor could be off.

 

[Jeasen]

Timbo, that is what I was going to do today. Thanks for your reply.

 

[Jeasen]

Well I pulled the distributor cap and checked inside and everything was good. While the cap was off I unhooked and re hooked the ICM connectors several times. Also did the same to other connectors that I could get to. I also checked that the rotor was pointing to the #1 plug wire while #1 was coming up on the compression stroke.

And because of a suggestion from SY2622 I checked out a post entitled "WTF, Plz Help". I followed all the suggestions in answer to that post as well as the A-3 Trouble Tree contained there in. Everything checked out. I then checked to make sure I had the plug wires connected to the distributor cap in the right order and found that I had 3 and 5 reversed. I changed them around and tried to start it and it started right up. Thank you SY2622, I really appreciate your help.

Now I need to figure out my next problem. The oil pressure gauge did not register any oil pressure. Hopefully a bad wire or sender. I will never get that T type sender out with the engine in the truck so I guess I will have to find another way to mount a sender. Any Ideas.

 

[DaveP's Ghost]

If you did not pre-fill the oil filter, pull it off and look in it. If it now has oil in it, you have oil pressure.

I access the oil sender by pulling the distributor. Total PITA, but there's no easier way to do it.

 

[Jeasen]

Thanks for your reply "DaveP's Ghost". I was going to replace the oil pressure sensor when the motor was out but it did not want to come loose from the copper stand pipe that screwsf into the block so I decided to leave it alone before I broke it off. Maybe I screwed it up trying to get it out of the stand pipe? I did prefill the oil filter and also turned the oil pump with a drill to make sure the oiling system was primed and full of oil. I took the oil line loose from the turbo and pumped several ounces of oil out of the line before trying to start the motor. After I finally started it I noticed that the connection from the aluminum line to the rubber line that goes to the oil cooler in the radiatior is leaking so it appears to have oil pressure. Any ideas on how to get this line repaired? The rubber hose is leaking at the crimped connection on the oil filter side. It is not a replaceable line. I am wondering if a hydraulic line repair shop would have a fitting to replace the crimped connection

If I could not get the sensor out of the copper stand pipe when the motor was out then I probably will not be able to get it out now. And I cannot unscrew the sender and copper stand pipe together from the block with the intake manifold in place. I have an empty hole in the A-pillar gauge pod where a wideband oxygen sensor use to reside so I am thinking it would be easier to mount a oil pressure gauge there. I could tap into the line that feeds the turbo just above the oil filter boss on the block. What do you think of that.

 

[Jeasen]

Thanks for your reply "DaveP's Ghost". I was going to replace the oil pressure sensor when the motor was out but it did not want to come loose from the copper stand pipe that screwsf into the block so I decided to leave it alone before I broke it off. Maybe I screwed it up trying to get it out of the stand pipe? I did prefill the oil filter and also turned the oil pump with a drill to make sure the oiling system was primed and full of oil. I took the oil line loose from the turbo and pumped several ounces of oil out of the line before trying to start the motor. After I finally started it I noticed that the connection from the aluminum line to the rubber line that goes to the oil cooler in the radiatior is leaking so it appears to have oil pressure. Any ideas on how to get this line repaired? The rubber hose is leaking at the crimped connection on the oil filter side. It is not a replaceable line. I am wondering if a hydraulic line repair shop would have a fitting to replace the crimped connection

If I could not get the sensor out of the copper stand pipe when the motor was out then I probably will not be able to get it out now. And I cannot unscrew the sender and copper stand pipe together from the block with the intake manifold in place. I have an empty hole in the A-pillar gauge pod where a wideband oxygen sensor use to reside so I am thinking it would be easier to mount a oil pressure gauge there. I could tap into the line that feeds the turbo just above the oil filter boss on the block. What do you think of that.

Good news. I hooked up a gauge to the oil feed line to the turbo and have really good oil pressure so my problem is the oil pressure sensor or the wiring going to it. Now I just need to figure out what I am going to do about my problem.

 

[DaveP's Ghost]

The oil lines are an ongoing PITA for every long-term SyTy owner that is still running the oil lines and remote filter. Some owners abandon the lines and cooler and go to a block-mounted oil filter. I have not. I feel that the oil cooler IS beneficial.

There are replacement lines available from Dorman. They are chineese shit, but unfortunately are the only part that is readily available. There is only one P/N for the on engine lines. There are two P/Ns for the filter to cooler lines. The P/N for the SyTy is the set for the VIn "W" CPI engine. (The SyTy Vin code is Z, but these will be the incorrect lines.) The Dorman lines fit ok, but won't last more than a few years before they begin to leak at the crimps. In my DD I replace the on engine lines about every other year. As I said, Chinese Shit.

I had a custom set of lines made up at a shop for a Sy that I resurrected. 2 year project. On the very first drive, one of the lines blew off and pumped all the oil out of the brand new engine. I didn't damage the engine, but what a fucking MESS! I was beyond pissed at the oil on everything after fastidiously cleaning every part on that truck over the two year project. Just go with the Dorman.

 

[Goodgollyjosh]

The oil lines are an ongoing PITA for every long-term SyTy owner that is still running the oil lines and remote filter. Some owners abandon the lines and cooler and go to a block-mounted oil filter. I have not. I feel that the oil cooler IS beneficial.

There are replacement lines available from Dorman. They are chineese shit, but unfortunately are the only part that is readily available. There is only one P/N for the on engine lines. There are two P/Ns for the filter to cooler lines. The P/N for the SyTy is the set for the VIn "W" CPI engine. (The SyTy Vin code is Z, but these will be the incorrect lines.) The Dorman lines fit ok, but won't last more than a few years before they begin to leak at the crimps. In my DD I replace the on engine lines about every other year. As I said, Chinese Shit.

I had a custom set of lines made up at a shop for a Sy that I resurrected. 2 year project. On the very first drive, one of the lines blew off and pumped all the oil out of the brand new engine. I didn't damage the engine, but what a fucking MESS! I was beyond pissed at the oil on everything after fastidiously cleaning every part on that truck over the two year project. Just go with the Dorman.

That would have frustrated me too, sounds like it was one hell of a mess. Good info on the oil lines. I am still running mine, they appear original, and luckily they aren't leaking at the moment. If I make lines from stainless steel braided with the crimp on ends, what dash number do you recommend to keep oil flow from being a restriction?

 

[Slyclone]

I just want to point out or bring to other truck owners attention that my fender mounted oil cooler is leaking on the rearward ( closest to the cabin) fittings.

I've had a melling HV555 oil pump since I re built the engine and wondering if high volume is the culprit. Oil psi appears to be high on the gauge 60-80.

My next step was to consider options.

Block mounted filter?
Pain in the ass lines?

Inner fender looks like it's crying. Got a rag catching the drizzle for now, keeping it clean monitoring if it actually is the problem ( which it is).

 

[Jeasen]

I ordered the Dorman replacement lines and installed them yesterday. The crimp connections for the connection of metal part of the line to the rubber line is no longer leaking but now it is leaking where the lines bolt to the oil filter housing. The rubber gasket for the connection was already made and was protected with a plastic cap. I do not see how I could have screwed this up but it seems like I did if it is leaking?

The way the oil cooler lines hook up to the connections on the oil cooler in the radiator seem wrong to me. The "to and from" oil cooler are embossed on the oil filter housing bolted to the fender. The "to" line hooks to the lower radiator connection and the "from" line hooks to the upper radiator connection. This is the only way they can be connected because of their length.

So we are pumping oil into the bottom of the oil cooler up past the hot water inlet from the motor to the radiator and then back to the oil filter housing.It seems to me the oil cooler in the radiator would be more effective if the direction of flow was reversed. Maybe I am over thinking this and it does not really matter. What do you guys think?

 

[Goodgollyjosh]

I'm not sure how it flows from the factory but here at work we always plumb heat exchangers of any kind to have the fluids or air flow opposite directions to one another. They say this is the most efficient way for maximum heat dissipation. Good luck with your oil leak. I hope you get it fixed!

 

[DaveP's Ghost]

I wouldn't fret over the way the cooler flow is plumbed. The entire left-side tank is water-out, so it should be roughly the same temperature from the top to the bottom of the tank. The right side tank is the one that may have a temperature gradient in it.

Off topic, learning opportunity: The heater core return line goes to the center of the right side tank, rather than back to the engine like many engines and installations do. There is a very specific engineering reason for this return flow to the tank. What is this reason?