BAH! Bloody Heater Core!

[Ozrein]

I know I've read on here that alot of people have gone through a number of heater cores. But how long do they usually last? I replaced mine about a year ago (about 4000 miles ago). Now I've been smelling coolant inside the cab ever since I put the Sy back on the road 2 weeks ago. I never really thought much of it, maybe just some residual smell I thought or just the ic pump, I didnt know. Well today I checked and DAM IT, if the heater core isnt blown AGAIN!

BLAH! ARGH! :rant: and all that.

Is there any alternate to the stock core that could be used that might last longer than 4000 miles or since it sat for 3-4 months (started up once a month during that time), could the lines/connections dry out or something?

Sorry for the rant, just pissed off. JUST picked it up today after a $800 bill to fix some front suspension stuff and now this. :rant: :rant: :rant: (<--sorry really like these guys)

 

[dgoodhue]

Re: BAH! Bloody Heater Core!

Aftermarket one tend not last as long as the GM ones. You also need to make sure the clamp/brace for the heater core is being used in the engine compartment (sometime its discarded).

 

[TurboTony]

Re: BAH! Bloody Heater Core!

I think it has alot to do with how much the trucks sit.

I'm on my third one in 4 years and wouldn't really be all that suprised to have to replace it again this spring. The hoses aren't too tight, the coolant is new and the PH is fine. I don't see the cores die all that often in daily driven s-series, hence my thoughts on the "parked factor"

Tony

 

[CAMSTY]

Re: BAH! Bloody Heater Core!

:rotf: Jeff, I feel your pain I just did mine a few weeks ago :rant: I was putting it off all winter, I new it went the day I parked it for the year. Tony's logic seems right, my hoses are not tight and my bracket was in place and my truck is parked alot.

 

[1BADSUV]

Re: BAH! Bloody Heater Core!

I put valves on each tube, turned off, no problem now.

 

[Sy769]

Re: BAH! Bloody Heater Core!

I think they are hit or miss. 92k on original one in the Sy.

Make sure the strap that secures the lines is still there. It also helps to make the hoses longer to put less stress on the core.

I'll wager that cheap parts store replacements are somewhat to blame.

 

[Ozrein]

Re: BAH! Bloody Heater Core!

Well I've got the bracket on there, I remember because it looked like it wouldnt really do anything but I put it back on anyway. I know I secured the straps inside, remember that.

But after mention of the black hoses going to the core, that may be my problem, I had to cut them to get the original core out. I didnt cut them much but I did take about 3/4" off each line. I'll have to replace those, like someone suggested with some that are alittle longer. The one is straight and a piece of 3/4" hose will work fine there, but the other one seems specific to the truck (bent a couple times).
Would I be able to find that hose at a local store or is it going to be something special that the guy at the local parts store that thinks my truck is a GMC motorbike will get confused with?

(and yes he actually asked if the vehicle in question was a motorbike (right after I said 1991 GMC Syclone, you'd think he would get the point when I said 'GMC'))

 

[tnsyty]

Re: BAH! Bloody Heater Core!

I bypassed mine also. I think If I ever do use it again, I am going to run it to my I/C lines

 

[turbodog]

Re: BAH! Bloody Heater Core!

But after mention of the black hoses going to the core, that may be my problem, I had to cut them to get the original core out. I didnt cut them much but I did take about 3/4" off each line. I'll have to replace those, like someone suggested with some that are alittle longer. The one is straight and a piece of 3/4" hose will work fine there, but the other one seems specific to the truck (bent a couple times).

Bingo. That's the problem. Replace the hose that runs from the battery tray to the heater core with generic hose, ensuring it has a little free play. I think this is smaller diameter (5/8"?). For the other side of the heater core, I recommend getting a section of straight 3/4" (I think... verify!) hose, a hose with a molded 180 degree bend, and an in-line splice fitting. Connect the straight hose to the fitting on the intake, and route under the IC toward the battery. Connect the molded hose to the straight hose so that it makes a near-180 turn and heads rearward toward the firewall. Secure the new hose to the section of hard-pipe (part of the other leg of the heater core coolant path) just aft of the battery tray. With this, plus the little clip in place at the heater housing, you will never replace another heater core. I have a total of 280k mi in 2 Tys and an S-Blazer with no failures once this mod was made on each. HTH.

 

[the_erickee]

Re: BAH! Bloody Heater Core!

i havent had a problem with mine, yet. :lol: Ive only had my sy for about 4 months/6000 miles. in know thats a lot.

 

[Ozrein]

Re: BAH! Bloody Heater Core!

Bingo. That's the problem. Replace the hose that runs from the battery tray to the heater core with generic hose, ensuring it has a little free play. I think this is smaller diameter (5/8"?). For the other side of the heater core, I recommend getting a section of straight 3/4" (I think... verify!) hose, a hose with a molded 180 degree bend, and an in-line splice fitting. Connect the straight hose to the fitting on the intake, and route under the IC toward the battery. Connect the molded hose to the straight hose so that it makes a near-180 turn and heads rearward toward the firewall. Secure the new hose to the section of hard-pipe (part of the other leg of the heater core coolant path) just aft of the battery tray. With this, plus the little clip in place at the heater housing, you will never replace another heater core. I have a total of 280k mi in 2 Tys and an S-Blazer with no failures once this mod was made on each. HTH.

Sweet, thanks for the tip. And ya, that one hose is 5/8" and the other 3/4". I've got it bypassed for now until I can pick up a new core and those hoses you mentioned. Hopefully like you said, I wont have to do this again.

I had thought of getting 3 shutoff valves so I could just close 2 valves and open a bypass valve if the core ever went again, I'll look into how much some valves would be, if they're not too pricey I may just do this anyway, just in case. If there's even enough room to do all that.

(oh and thanks to Mods for moving this to the proper section, wasnt really sure where the heater core fit into the different sections. :tup: )

 

[oldfooter]

Re: BAH! Bloody Heater Core!

Are your cores leaking in the core or at the tubes going into the upper header. If in the core (where they usually leak) the length of the hoses won't matter. Antifreeze setting in the core not moving is the normal problem, it corrodes the cores from the inside. Shutting the water flow off won't stop the corrosion unless core is blowed out. Also you might try attaching a ground strap to the copper tubing as electrolisis is sometimes a problem with computer controlled cars.

 

[Ozrein]

Re: BAH! Bloody Heater Core!

Are your cores leaking in the core or at the tubes going into the upper header. If in the core (where they usually leak) the length of the hoses won't matter. Antifreeze setting in the core not moving is the normal problem, it corrodes the cores from the inside. Shutting the water flow off won't stop the corrosion unless core is blowed out. Also you might try attaching a ground strap to the copper tubing as electrolisis is sometimes a problem with computer controlled cars.

I havent removed this core yet, so I'm not sure if it is a crack due to the stress on the tube/core connection or an actual leak somewhere within the vains of the core itself. The last core, I hadnt noticed any cracks around the weld where the tubes are attached to the core. It was leaking when I bought it and as far as I know it wasnt driven much for a period of time before that, so I'm thinking that that one would have been due to corrosion.

Since I've put a year of insurance on it now, I'm hoping to drive all year round, this may help any coolant from sitting in the core and corroding the vains. As for the valves I'm just thinking if after this one I have to replace the core, which may happen again for whatever reason, then I can bypass the core (thereby reducing the amount of coolant being pumped into the passenger footwell) until time presents itself to replace the core. Time and money are such commodities in today's day and age. Also being able to shutoff the coolant flow from core to the remainder of the coolant system would reduce the amount of coolant that is lost during the produce, or at least could make it easier.