Break in oil?

berzerker

wookie
Re: Break in oil?

i'll second on the 30wt . everybody i've known in the machine shop / auto biz . have always recomended it for the break in .
 

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: Break in oil?

:rant: Not that I have an opinion here, which I do, but why straight grade as opposed to multi-grade? Don't you want the oil getting to the (new) parts ASAP? Presumably faster with multi-grade. BTW I would definitely NOT use non-detergent even if I could find it.:rant:

Curious what McCoy has to say.
 

Richie Rich

New member
Re: Break in oil?

I spoke to someone at McCoy's not Jerry himself. They said 10 40 I think they were mistaken. I'm going to go with 10 30 mobil one.
 

kessler

New member
Re: Break in oil?

uhm you better not run Synthetic in that bitch for at least 3k miles or it wont break in the right way.
 
Last edited:

93ty475

Donating Member
Re: Break in oil?

Richie Rich said:
I spoke to someone at McCoy's not Jerry himself. They said 10 40 I think they were mistaken. I'm going to go with 10 30 mobil one.

I would suggest talking to Jerry and asking him what to use in case something comes unglued in your motor and you need warranty help from them...Leave a message for Jerry...He's very good about returning phone calls.....As mentioned above, I don't think you should use synthetic oil for break in...Your rings might never seat....I'm not recommending what you should use, but I'm running straight 30 wt. castrol in mine for break in right now....
 

myclone

Donating Member
Re: Break in oil?

Its been discussed on here numerous times..... No synthetic on a new engine/break in and on average 10w-30 (detergent/non detergent it doesnt matter) conventional oil is fine.

Personally, I use the cheapest 30w oil I can buy since its only going to be in there a matter of minutes anyways and if there is an issue with start up lubrication, or lack there of, then either the motor was assembled wrong or the wrong type of assembly lube was used (or both).

If youre still worried about start up lube issues then pull the spark plugs out, disconnect the ign coil primary side (low voltage side), and crank the motor until you get oil pressure. Once you get steady oil pressure while cranking reinstall the spark plugs reconnect the coil and fire it up long enough to let the coolant temp reach operating level. By then the rings are seated and you can drop the dino oil out and replace with synthetic. Worked for me a couple of kabillion times so far.
 

Richie Rich

New member
Re: Break in oil?

Spoke to the real McCoy. Jerry says to use a good 10 40 then after 500 miles use the Mobil one. Thanks for the info guys.
 

SpoolingTurbo6

Donating Member
Re: Break in oil?

I'd use the cheapest shit you can find @ Idiot zone, Your going to cange it in an hour anyway to break the cam in! My Moto is If its dark change it, if its burnt change it, if you went racing, change it..If there is no intake on the motor through some lucas oil on the cam or breake in lube...Get one of these 555-23640 from Jegs or napa ect ect....
Break in is over rated. Just put some NonDet oil in and follow steps to break in cam.(idle to warmup then,1000rmpm for five min,idle for ten. Wala cams broke in CHANGE OIL & Filter,put in what ever is cheap drive it for a week and Rinse and Repeat
 

NecroWolf

lost marbles member
Re: Break in oil?

do roller cams need the same break in as flat tappet cams? i might be wrong but i always thought roller cams were basicly plug and play as far as that goes.
 

berzerker

wookie
Re: Break in oil?

roller cams/ lifters do not really require break in due the lifters not rotating on the cam lobes like typical hyd. tappet cams
 

myclone

Donating Member
Re: Break in oil?

NecroWolf said:
do roller cams need the same break in as flat tappet cams?

Nope.

i might be wrong but i always thought roller cams were basicly plug and play as far as that goes.

They are plug and play. "Breaking in" a roller cam does about as much good as eating a pound of baked beans to get rid of gas.
 
Top