Bubba was here before me....
- Thread starter DaveP
- Start date
SYO237
SyTy Registry
Re: Bubba was here before me....
Tried a dremel yet? You'll go through some cutting discs, but at least you wont be hacking or burning up everything in site.
If you dont or cant go all the way with the dremel, at least if you get a good enough slot cut into the nut, you can also then take an old screw driver and hammer and proceed to pound away and split open the nut.
Tried a dremel yet? You'll go through some cutting discs, but at least you wont be hacking or burning up everything in site.
If you dont or cant go all the way with the dremel, at least if you get a good enough slot cut into the nut, you can also then take an old screw driver and hammer and proceed to pound away and split open the nut.
SY-1193
Active member
Re: Bubba was here before me....
Trying to picture what you have there.
Someone cut the threaded end of the front shafts with a torch that have the big nut on them right?
So there are jagged torched berries around the edges of the threads and you are thinking the nut won't come off? Or did Bubba cut the shafts and it is all just rotating? Or both?
I would think you could use a porta-ban saw to cut a clean edge on the shaft. If it is too recessed use an air powered cut off wheel to cut a 45 deg chamfer around the edges of the threads and clean it up. Place a pipe wrench on the shaft to hold it. And run the nut off with a 1/2 impact. (OR) you could heat the end of the threads up cherry and rub a candle on the shaft ( parafin works as a lubricant ) then run the nut off with an impact if you plan on not using the shafts again. I prefer the colder of the two with the cutoff wheel if you plan to use the shafts again.
Not sure if that is what you are looking to do? HTH
Trying to picture what you have there.
Someone cut the threaded end of the front shafts with a torch that have the big nut on them right?
So there are jagged torched berries around the edges of the threads and you are thinking the nut won't come off? Or did Bubba cut the shafts and it is all just rotating? Or both?
I would think you could use a porta-ban saw to cut a clean edge on the shaft. If it is too recessed use an air powered cut off wheel to cut a 45 deg chamfer around the edges of the threads and clean it up. Place a pipe wrench on the shaft to hold it. And run the nut off with a 1/2 impact. (OR) you could heat the end of the threads up cherry and rub a candle on the shaft ( parafin works as a lubricant ) then run the nut off with an impact if you plan on not using the shafts again. I prefer the colder of the two with the cutoff wheel if you plan to use the shafts again.
Not sure if that is what you are looking to do? HTH
Re: Bubba was here before me....
I was thinking the same thing. Can also cut two slots in the nut 180 degrees apart and it will fall off.
Can you grind the stub (what's left of it) flush with the nut and then back off the nut?
Can you back off the nut some to bring it out to the end (exposing more of it for ease of access) and then get the dremel in there?
I was thinking the same thing. Can also cut two slots in the nut 180 degrees apart and it will fall off.
Can you grind the stub (what's left of it) flush with the nut and then back off the nut?
Can you back off the nut some to bring it out to the end (exposing more of it for ease of access) and then get the dremel in there?
Davemc1963
93 Ty Owner
Re: Bubba was here before me....
I'd try and cut into the nut as much as possible before the big hammer and chisel was applied. Too many heavy hammer blows and you risk 'Brinnelling' the bearing you want to save which will cause premature failure. Can you dress (grind down) the remains of the stub with a 4" angle grinder to make it flush with the end of the nut to enable it to be removed with a socket, or is it too badly damaged? Obviously the wheel studs will be in the way which will make it harder I suppose. Good luck with it.
I'd try and cut into the nut as much as possible before the big hammer and chisel was applied. Too many heavy hammer blows and you risk 'Brinnelling' the bearing you want to save which will cause premature failure. Can you dress (grind down) the remains of the stub with a 4" angle grinder to make it flush with the end of the nut to enable it to be removed with a socket, or is it too badly damaged? Obviously the wheel studs will be in the way which will make it harder I suppose. Good luck with it.
TYTILIDIE
METH HEAD
Re: Bubba was here before me....
I dont think cutting the nuts will get anywhere as far as removing the shafts. If there is too much crap on the stub that you wont be bale to unscrew then even if you cut the nut off, how would you be able to slide the shaft out? I'd go for the Dremel or die grinder idea.
I dont think cutting the nuts will get anywhere as far as removing the shafts. If there is too much crap on the stub that you wont be bale to unscrew then even if you cut the nut off, how would you be able to slide the shaft out? I'd go for the Dremel or die grinder idea.
ty166
Donating Member
Re: Bubba was here before me....
if your going to truely "unbubba" it the right thing to do would be replace the half shaft and hub and bearing. as everyone knows heat will destroy the bearing , also if the guy did torch the end off it after it was installed that bearing already seen a good enough amount of extreme heat to do damadge to it and or the seal. and as stated above air chizeling on a bearing is also a excellent way to destroy it. if i was going to unbubba this mess i would just use any means possible to get it apart and replace the hub and bearing. time is money, dont know about anyone else but my time is worth more than spending a good couple hours trying to save a $120.00 timken hub and bearing assembly. just my :2cents:...
if your going to truely "unbubba" it the right thing to do would be replace the half shaft and hub and bearing. as everyone knows heat will destroy the bearing , also if the guy did torch the end off it after it was installed that bearing already seen a good enough amount of extreme heat to do damadge to it and or the seal. and as stated above air chizeling on a bearing is also a excellent way to destroy it. if i was going to unbubba this mess i would just use any means possible to get it apart and replace the hub and bearing. time is money, dont know about anyone else but my time is worth more than spending a good couple hours trying to save a $120.00 timken hub and bearing assembly. just my :2cents:...