HELP!!!! with turbo and headers install

[tybanman]

A few months back I posted about a turbo, headers, and downpipe that I bought on ebay. If you dont rememder or havent heard the SON OF A BITCH is Tong Weeden from Colorado Springs and he sold me a bad turbo. Well I finally got the turbo back, $760 later and I still think there are some parts missing. If anybody has the instructions and/or parts lists for these ATR parts and would be willing to email them to me I will be forever greatful!!

thank you

P.S. If anyone has pics of these installed that would be awesome...

 

[smeagol]

What exactly do you need help with?

I think it's all pretty straight-forward.

I don't know why anyone would buy an ATR turbo setup anymore, considering what Erue/McCoy/Mike @ RPM/PTE offer syty peeps nowadays.

The headers create more problems than they are worth IMO.

 

[tybanman]

The oil return line won't bolt up. Where do I get one that does? Thats the biggest problem right now. And the fact that the closest guys that know anything about this isht are near Seatle and I am in Portland dosnt help. As far as it being straight forward it probobly is, if you trust that the guy to send you everything. Which I don't. And yes headers are a pain in the ass, but after hous of looking through the classifieds on this website and other it seemed like everyone was selling the left and not the right exhast manifold. It seems to me that the manifolds are pretty shitty and why not try something different. As far as ATR, they seemed to be the only co. with aftermarket parts available, so if there are guys making parts for these trucks we should do a better job of getting there names out there...

 

[smeagol]

all you need to do is read and search this site, and it will have all of your answers. Buying parts isn't always the solution.

www.raceprovenmotors.com has a full braided oil return for garrett style turbos.

also, make sure you use some gaskets for the headers so they don't leak.

make sure you check the bolts often, get some locking type.

make sure you tighten the crossover on the headers, so it doesn't leak.

inspect them to make sure they aren't cracked or leaking already.

get rid of that crappy ATR-excuse-for-a-wastegate, or have it rebuilt

make sure the 3 bolt to 4 bolt adapter in your kit is in good shape, make sure you seal those 2 surfaces adequately, as it is prone to leak/crack/cause nightmares.

then do some reading about the ATR downpipe and why you'll be cursing that (hint: can't change the #6 plug)

 

[TYPHOOL7]

exactly!

 

[sytyguy]

As far as ATR, they seemed to be the only co. with aftermarket parts available, so if there are guys making parts for these trucks we should do a better job of getting there names out there...

Most guys on here advertise daily, either with signatures that elude to parts they offer as well as contact info (such as myself) or via banners, replies containing advertisements, sponsorship (of the site or NATS), etc...... RPM, JS Design, TurboTime, McCoy, Tucker Auto Parts, etc.....have all, at one time or another, either sponsored the Nationals, or made a post concerning their company, or have a banner made for their company, or have their info listed @ Sportmachines' vendors page, or...........you get the point.

Regardless of how we advertise, we're all just a search button away.

FWIW, none of us are gonna seek you out and hit you over the head with who to buy from, because........it is, afterall, your money.

Wish I coulda provided info concerning your problem, but hopefully this'll help you save a little money/headache in the future.

Hood

 

[tybanman]

Thanks for the help. I got my fuel pump, ultimate, 3bar, and fuel press. reg. through raceproven hadnt run into this problem yet, turbo was still in tacoma being rebuilt. Any right way to go about clearing the trans and AC lines to get an air filter on. I have a few ideas may be somebody has a better one. What about atrs batt relocate kit, is the anything better?

 

[prosty]

Just move the battery to the rear of the truck. If you have the ATR reallocation kit then you can't use the RPM intercooler for instance..

Have you solved the oil-return line issue? Just get an ordinary oil pressure line and route it as you see fit (don't bend / cripple the hose) I had a teflon hose and it works fine.

 

[tybanman]

Where in the rear?

 

[TYPHOOL7]

be aware that once you move your battery, you, when at the track are required to have certian things up to par ie:
battery box must be sealed and vented, i had to buy 2, the 1st, a moroso, wasnt regulation, also
once the battery is located in the rear, you must have a battery cut off switch mounted at the rear in a visible spot; but it can be temporary, magnetic with a plug somewhere..
also, people tend to locate thier batteries in the rear passenger corner.

Have you thought about mounting the battery in the front fender, under where it is currently, that aint bad.

 

[prosty]

I purchased a maintenance free battery. They do not require "venting" , however you can just drill another hole through the bottom of the truck and put a silicone hose there to vent some air off. I put mine in the right rear side of the car. Just behind the right back wheel. Looks OK but I need to put it in a better looking box. You also need to tighten a reallocated battery with M10 type washers / nuts? I'm not sure about that though, but I'm doing it anyway. I'm not sure how the rules are in the US but in sweden we don't need to vent the battery if it's a closed battery without "water adding" holes