IAT Guage for Pillar?

smeagol

Active member
Ivan had a trick setup years ago with multiple senders on a single gauge, with dual readouts. He had (if i recall correctly) dual air (before and after IC), dual IC coolant (again, before and after), engine coolant, tranny fluid temp. This was all on the same dual gauge, so you could see the difference in temperature before and after the intercooler very easily.

Westach gauges was what he used... very good instrumentation, and inexpensive. They'll even create custom gauges if you so desire.
 

Will_in_China

Truckless Wonder
smeagol said:
Ivan had a trick setup years ago with multiple senders on a single gauge, with dual readouts. He had (if i recall correctly) dual air (before and after IC), dual IC coolant (again, before and after), engine coolant, tranny fluid temp. This was all on the same dual gauge, so you could see the difference in temperature before and after the intercooler very easily.

Westach gauges was what he used... very good instrumentation, and inexpensive. They'll even create custom gauges if you so desire.

I remember seeing that at the nats!!, pretty sweet rolling setup...
I would imagine he plumbed his own sensors, with all the pre and post shit.
I will check and see if westach has a pickup and dig around his old website and see if doc'ed any of his project since I want to pick a good air temp sensor.

Thanks,
-Will
 

smeagol

Active member
Will_in_Denver said:
smeagol said:
Ivan had a trick setup years ago with multiple senders on a single gauge, with dual readouts. He had (if i recall correctly) dual air (before and after IC), dual IC coolant (again, before and after), engine coolant, tranny fluid temp. This was all on the same dual gauge, so you could see the difference in temperature before and after the intercooler very easily.

Westach gauges was what he used... very good instrumentation, and inexpensive. They'll even create custom gauges if you so desire.

I remember seeing that at the nats!!, pretty sweet rolling setup...
I would imagine he plumbed his own sensors, with all the pre and post shit.
I will check and see if westach has a pickup and dig around his old website and see if doc'ed any of his project since I want to pick a good air temp sensor.

Thanks,
-Will

www.westach.com has it all, gauge specs & sender specs... give 'em a call, they are really helpful, and can probably suggest a good setup.
 

Will_in_China

Truckless Wonder
On there right now...
They have an "Outside temp guage", I'm sure more...

Are people picking up IAT from right at the sensor or ECM wires?

-w
 

smeagol

Active member
Will_in_Denver said:
On there right now...
They have an "Outside temp guage", I'm sure more...

Are people picking up IAT from right at the sensor or ECM wires?

-w

I don't know of anyone using the existing sensor. Everyone that is reading/logging air temp uses new senders. I'd install them wherever heat soak could be minimized.
 

Will_in_China

Truckless Wonder
smeagol said:
Will_in_Denver said:
On there right now...
They have an "Outside temp guage", I'm sure more...

Are people picking up IAT from right at the sensor or ECM wires?

-w

I don't know of anyone using the existing sensor. Everyone that is reading/logging air temp uses new senders. I'd install them wherever heat soak could be minimized.

Cool.
I'm not really looking for absolute data though, just some "relativity" from which to tune. +/-X* of temperature difference, more for drivability than track tuning in this case.

Truck gets horrible heat performance in a couple conditions and want to just look up and see what the IAT is for a few months...

-w
 

Lynn D. Brown

New member
IAT guage.

IAT guage.

Will,

I got the Dual IAT gauge from Autometer. A little pricey, but a neat gauge - got it from Summit. I was going to get the Dual Exhaust one also, but it was a whole lot more than the single. Just go to the summitracing website - they're all listed.
 

turbodog

Donating Member
Anyone ever rewired the stock boost guage to the MAT sensor sort of as a 'go/no-go' monitor of IC functionality?
 

TurboTony

Active member
Anyone ever rewired the stock boost guage to the MAT sensor sort of as a 'go/no-go' monitor of IC functionality?


Hmmm, that's not a bad idea. One more side project for me. :D

Tony
 

turbodog

Donating Member
The simplest approach is to move the guage wire (circuit 432, Lt. Grn) from the MAP (also ckt 432, Lt. grn at ECM connector C311 position F15) to ECM connector 311 position F16 (ckt 472, Tan, from MAT a.k.a. IAT).

Both MAP and MAT are (approx) 0V to 5V output range.

Unfortunately, this will result in the guage needle going up when MAT is low, and needle going down when MAT is hot. Perfectly good for the 'go/no-go monitor' purpose, but detracting from the 'cool' factor. I was sorta hoping someone had already rigged a simple op-amp inverter. Guess I have a project.... Not thatn I needed another one!

Maybe I can make a pointer for the boost guage in the shape of a hand with thumb extended... Thumb up, go for it! Thumb down, better check the IC pump...
 

Will_in_China

Truckless Wonder
SWEET!

turbodog said:
The simplest approach is to move the guage wire (circuit 432, Lt. Grn) from the MAP (also ckt 432, Lt. grn at ECM connector C311 position F15) to ECM connector 311 position F16 (ckt 472, Tan, from MAT a.k.a. IAT).

Both MAP and MAT are (approx) 0V to 5V output range.

Unfortunately, this will result in the guage needle going up when MAT is low, and needle going down when MAT is hot. Perfectly good for the 'go/no-go monitor' purpose, but detracting from the 'cool' factor. I was sorta hoping someone had already rigged a simple op-amp inverter. Guess I have a project.... Not thatn I needed another one!

Maybe I can make a pointer for the boost guage in the shape of a hand with thumb extended... Thumb up, go for it! Thumb down, better check the IC pump...
 

just a 6

R.I.P MyClone
Correct me if i'm wrong but don't you have to do it this way:

The simplest approach is to move the gauge wire (circuit 432, Lt. Grn @ the S109
splice) from the MAP (also ckt 432, Lt. grn at ECM connector C311 position F15) to
(ckt 472, Tan, from MAT a.k.a. IAT). ECM connector 311 position F16, splice wire
in with Tan from IAT sensor. The S109 splice is located close to C101 connector on
RH side of dash inside vehicle. I’m going to do this today and will follow up on how it works.
If you move the pins on ECU the ECU will not read the MAP signal, you have to do it
in the splice before the ECU so the ECU still read the MAP signal.


turbodog said:
The simplest approach is to move the guage wire (circuit 432, Lt. Grn) from the MAP (also ckt 432, Lt. grn at ECM connector C311 position F15) to ECM connector 311 position F16 (ckt 472, Tan, from MAT a.k.a. IAT).

Both MAP and MAT are (approx) 0V to 5V output range.

Unfortunately, this will result in the guage needle going up when MAT is low, and needle going down when MAT is hot. Perfectly good for the 'go/no-go monitor' purpose, but detracting from the 'cool' factor. I was sorta hoping someone had already rigged a simple op-amp inverter. Guess I have a project.... Not thatn I needed another one!

Maybe I can make a pointer for the boost guage in the shape of a hand with thumb extended... Thumb up, go for it! Thumb down, better check the IC pump...
 

turbodog

Donating Member
"If you move the pins on ECU the ECU will not read the MAP signal, you have to do it in the splice before the ECU so the ECU still read the MAP signal. "

I may not have communicated it effectively, but my procedure does not change which signal the ECU is reading, it only moves the boost guage input from the MAP sensor wire to the IAT sensor wire. I suggested doing so at the ECU pins because the wires you need are close together and easily identifiable by which connector pin they go to. If the S109 splice is where the guage wire connects to the MAP signal wire, then I agree this is the right place to cut it. I don't have my schematics with me today to verify... I look forward to hearing how it works.

I have investigated a circuit to invert the MAP signal so that the guage reads higher with increasing IAT. I think I have one which could work, but knowing where the guage reads (when connected as you plan) will help me to fine tune the design. Please let me know if the guage tends to be below the mid-point mark most of the time, or above it, or if it ever goes all the way up or down at any time. Thanks!
 

just a 6

R.I.P MyClone
I wasen't trying to put you down or anything, just made it clearer where to swap wires, ok? I was going to do the hook up last night but realized that my solder gun was a work, so i'm going to try to do it tonight, and i'll let you know how it turns out.


turbodog said:
"If you move the pins on ECU the ECU will not read the MAP signal, you have to do it in the splice before the ECU so the ECU still read the MAP signal. "

I may not have communicated it effectively, but my procedure does not change which signal the ECU is reading, it only moves the boost guage input from the MAP sensor wire to the IAT sensor wire. I suggested doing so at the ECU pins because the wires you need are close together and easily identifiable by which connector pin they go to. If the S109 splice is where the guage wire connects to the MAP signal wire, then I agree this is the right place to cut it. I don't have my schematics with me today to verify... I look forward to hearing how it works.

I have investigated a circuit to invert the MAP signal so that the guage reads higher with increasing IAT. I think I have one which could work, but knowing where the guage reads (when connected as you plan) will help me to fine tune the design. Please let me know if the guage tends to be below the mid-point mark most of the time, or above it, or if it ever goes all the way up or down at any time. Thanks!
 

just a 6

R.I.P MyClone
Ok, Turbodog we got some problems. I located the splice and hooked up the boost gauge to IAT sensor wire. We got a problem, the gauge don't move enough to get an accurat reading. The voltage difference from IAT sensor between 80-100* is not enough for the gauge to travel enough to make out how much temp difference there is.

Second, i don't know if my truck did this before but i can't remember it did. After my wire switching now my fuel pump primes when i turn on parklight :eek: Didn't feel like messing with it tonight, so i'm going to check tomorrow by disconnecting the gauge wire from IAT wire and see if that fix the problem.

It was really easy to find the splice, pull down your ECU and look for a white 10 pin connector close to ECU harness. Remove electrical tape from ECU wire harness approx 4-5" closer to firewall from where the 10 pin connector enter the ECU harness, now you can see the splice of the LtGreen wire that goes to gauge and MAP sensor. The LtGreen wire that goes to 10pin connector is the one that goes to gauge. Cut it and solder it on the Tan wire that goes to IAT sensor.

But before you do this we have to figure out how to get the gauge to make larger move when temp goes up or down.

And the gauge stays in the green field (lower part) of the gauge when started truck cold, well about 80* outside temp. I test drove but the gauge needle did not move enough to tell if the temp went up.

I think the gauge reads volt from 0-5volt over it's whole area, e.i 0volt is low green area and 5volt is full orange area. But the IAT sensor only reads maybe from 1.5volt to 2.0 volt. I know these numbers are not correct, i just grabbed them from the air. I did not DM my truck tonight to get accurat volt readings.

If it's working this way we need to figure out how to get the gauge needle to move from lower to upper part with only a slight volt difference.
 
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