Low oil pressure

srocket24

What turbo?
I recently did a engine rebuild on my 92' Typhoon, and since the rebuild I've only put 290 miles on. Since the rebuild I've been having issues with the ty stalling durning idle. At first I thought it was the timing, but recently I've been noticing the oil pressure dropping down to the low 20's durning idle "when hot" and when I first start the ty up when its cold its around 70 and it idles fine. Also, since the oil pressure issues, I've been hearing a knock when the motor is warm. Any idea's what could be going on? It's not leaking or burning any oil. I did put a new oil pump in durning the rebuild " http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SLP-224-4146A/Application/?prefilter=1 ". May I have put in the wrong oil pump? Whats everyone thought on this?
 

Quickstop [UK]

Combating adversyty.
Re: Low oil pressure

Doesn't sound good - 20 psi is what people with bad bearings suffer from and the knocking noise isn't encouraging.

A cheap investigation would be to cut open your oil filter and look for bearing material - little flakes etc.

I don't know anything about that pump but mine starts at 65 psi and settles at about 40 when hot. I have the Melling Select 10553 (There was a rash of broken pumps a couple of years ago)

Depends on your oil viscosity and the rpm at idle - stock chip?

Presumably if you rev it then you are getting an increase in oil pressure?

Knock when warm suggests your oil pressure is too low. It sounds like you want to check that filter and probably put in a thicker oil at the very least.

The fact that this comes immediately after a rebuild is disconscerting. Post up what you find.
 

bezerk

New member
Re: Low oil pressure

have you primed the engine before starting it, like quickstop says, cut filter, you're prolly ****ed.
 

TNPhoon

1of28
Re: Low oil pressure

Sorry man.
I am dealing with an almost similar issue, however, I am not noticing a knock in the motor when warm. But on the same side, I am not letting the oil get very warm.
When I start @ cold, I'm about 60psi and when I get warm, it's dropping down to around 20psi.
I sent my oil out to be sampled on the safe side to http://www.blackstone-labs.com/. $25 per test.
I showed high levels of tin, copper and lead, pretty much verifying the bearings and that the motor is going to have to come back out.
I did an oil change and sent them two samples. I wanted to get as much verification that I could before confirming it was fawked.
Let us know what you find in the filter, but as mentioned above, be ready for some choice words to come out of your mouth.
 

turbodig

Active member
Re: Low oil pressure

My first suggestion would be to check it against a manual gauge... the stock gauges are notoriously bad.

Was this a stock rebuild, or ?

The oil pump pickups are notorious for falling out, unless they're welded/clamped in.
 
Re: Low oil pressure

i would say you have no bearing. it look like a bad built motor. if i was you, take the oil pan out and inspect the bearing .if it knocks problably you have bad rod bearings.i would say fried engine .sorry for the bad news.:(
 

srocket24

What turbo?
Re: Low oil pressure

It was a stock rebuild. So anyways, I changed the oil today for the first time since the rebuild and I took the oil filter and I cut in half to inspect. I noticed really small copper looking flakes in the filter. When I inspected the oil itself, I noticed the copper flakes and the oil also had a gray tint and a strong smell of gasoline. Now I'm thinking it could be bad piston rings? These are the rings I put on http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SLP-E-251K/
 

Big Mike

New member
Re: Low oil pressure

Did you change or clean your oil cooler lines and change your radiator, your oil cooler is built in to it and is known to cause bearing damage if it was not changed with a new rebuild?
 

BMFB

Not to scale
Re: Low oil pressure

well, its not looking good. I am assuming that the original engine had a bearing take a dump, and thats why you rebuilt it. If that is true it sent alot of metal into the oil, and respective oiling system. This would include your motor, your turbo, turbo oil lines, oil filter lines, and your factory oil cooler (radiator). You HAVE to replace the radiator, or do what I did and eliminate it with a remote filter that has no cooler lines. For all of those other places, if you didn't clean them out then they are still harboring that original engine oil, which is still full of metal. That metal is back in your engine and tearing your bearings apart (most likly).

From what I understand having the oil analyzed with only 200 miles on it won't work well, they will jsut say "they're are high amouts of copper and bronze and other metals that suggest that you may have a bearing going out, but it might also be part of the natural process of breaking in a motor, we typically cannot be sure unless the motor is fully broken in" Find out if its knocking from inside the motor, take the accessory belt off and listion to it, I even unbolted my torque converter and pushed it back into the trans to make sure I was ONLY hearing the engine, make sure its not exhaust or soemthing of the like. Engine noises tend to make themselves very known.



Did you do this yourself?, if not and shop did this, you could try an get them for not taking proper action with the radiator replacement, and they would be obligated to help you with this problem. If you did it yourself, then your gonna have to pull it back out. If you catch it early enough you might be able to walk away with just a set of bearings and gaskets, prolly a crank grind as well...


I had a huge issue with my engine where I had a torque converter baloon and take out my thrust bearing, 2 weeks after I rebuilt it. It was making all kinds of stupid noise because the crankshaft was walking in and out of the motor. i pulled it out and everything was still savible, the bearings were all bad, but the only machine work I needed done was a crank grind. I hope your not any worse off than that.

This kind of thing really sucks, and I feel bad for you. To have that much work add up to nothing other than a hole burned in your pocket. Don't give up, if you had it out once you can do it again. You shouldn't need a set of rings but check everything out. Put up a build thread and let everyone know whats going on, people check those things, and they are willing to help you out if your not sure of what to do. If you need any advice, let me know.
 

bezerk

New member
Re: Low oil pressure

fluishing the oilcooler with a high pressure water cleaner works as well, to have it cleaned.
 

BMFB

Not to scale
Re: Low oil pressure

fluishing the oilcooler with a high pressure water cleaner works as well, to have it cleaned.

I have been told by many respected engine builders that you will never get an oil cooler completly metal free. My engine builder refused to warrenty anything unless it was replaced. Its also cheap insurance.
 

srocket24

What turbo?
Re: Low oil pressure

I rebuilt the motor because it had a bad piston ring and the upper and lower plenum gaskets were shot. During the rebuild I inspected the bearings and they all seemed fine. When I did the oil change yesterday, I inspected the oil and the oil filter just to find the typical break in copper particles and that the oil had a gray tint and a strong odor of gasoline. My thinking now is that water and or gasoline is getting mixed into the oil and that's the reason for the low oil pressure. Now all I have to do is find out where its coming from. Maybe the intake is cracked? any ideas?
 

wildphil

I Love My Ty's
Re: Low oil pressure

If you aren't getting metal shavings in your oil. Then looking into why your oil smells like fuel would be a good idea. If too much fuel is entering your cylinder then the oil can not lubricate the cylinder as it should.


I don't know what would cause this. I wonder if you can pull the spark plugs and see if one is soaked in fuel. May get an idea of the cylinder the fuel is going to. Does it seem to be running rich?
 
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