mysterious missing at idle/stall - need help!

blownamigo

blownamigo

TYed Up Member
My truck is missing at idle and I can't the heck figure out what causes this. This is what happened so far: I had my Ty sitting at the body shop for 7 month now. Two weeks after I had brought it in, I went there and changed plugs (CR42TS gaped 0.35), wires, cap and rotor. I tried to fire it up and there was this missing for the first time. I din't do anithing at this point because I knew the truck would be sitting for a couple of months. Now the truck is ready to rumble and I'm dealing with this mysterious missing/stalling. I've checked the firing order, checked all the connections and contactsprayed them, reinstalled the cap and rotor to make sure it sits tight. On Diacom the truck seams to run fine above 2000 rpm, it just refuses to idle and if you keep the throttle at 5% so it does not stall you can feel a miss every now and then ECM also constantly adjusting rich/lean figures back and forth. I have the Ultimate Chip installed other than that the truck is completely stock. I also checked OEM air filter and elbow for leaks..nothing. I now have two more things written on my checklist #1 beeing the vacuum system (still OEM lines, but visually in goog shape) and #2 beeing the IAC idle air control (can I clean this thing simply by removing the oval connection between IC and throttle body?).
What do you guys think? I'm fiddeling with things for 3 weeks now, It's driving me crazy..appreciate your help guys!

Pat
#1044 blk/blk
 
blownamigo

blownamigo

TYed Up Member
There are also no codes stored. I was hoping to get a 35 for the idle air control but no...

Pat
93 Ty, blk/blk
#1044
 
JustBeachin

JustBeachin

Plays well with others
On 2002-01-21 13:23, blownamigo wrote:
I have the Ultimate Chip installed other than that the truck is completely stock.
Click to expand...

Just to make sure....You are using the 3-bar MAP sensor? (BTDT)
 
M

Mybad

New member
Check the vacuum lines into the solenoid on top of the turbo. Also, I had a strange miss until I rechecked the spark plug wires AGAIN. Turns out the number one wire was not seated properly. Got it secure, no problems. Everyone will also say to check to make sure you have not accidentally cracked a spark plug. Seen it happen, often.

GL
 
blownamigo

blownamigo

TYed Up Member
Yes I'm using the 3 bar map. Truck was running fine before, just had a stumble at WOT from about 60 mph and up so I changed the wires. stumble is gone BTW.
As for the wires, I never had to use force during install and rechecking.
I will check the vacuum lines going into the solenoid....and :sad: go over these wires again. Just got a new set of Black Beauties, might help but I've checked wires and plugs by unpluging wires 1 at a time and starting engine to see if idling behavior changes helping me to track down the bad one...nothing, truck runs as bad no mather what wire is disconnected. This is what lead me to the conclusion that there can't be something wrong from the cap down to the plugs. I'll get to work on the truck tomorrow again.
Thnx so far, I'll keep you up to date.

Pat
93 Ty, blk/blk
#1044



<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: blownamigo on 2002-01-21 14:40 ]</font>
 
J

JoeLutz

New member
Just a couple of ideas:
Craked plug porcelin(sp?)
wire against downpipe or exhaust
Vaccum leak - Most important line to map sensor and FPR
Bad or corroded coil - Changed my Accel to GM and it helped idle a lot.
Bad plug - it does happen
Timing off
Contaminated or bad fuel
Dirty or sticky injector
For some reason, body shops are hard on ignition parts and general tune.
When trying to locate a miss to one cylinder, I get someone to hold the gas at a level where it runs but has a steady miss. Use some good insulated spark plug wire pullers and pull one wire at a time at the cap until you find the one that you can pull and it doesn't slow down the engine. Thats the cylinder thats missing. If you pull one and the engine speeds up, then you've got a crossed wire.
 
blownamigo

blownamigo

TYed Up Member
Changed some vacuum lines and all the wires again last night. Ohms meter was standing by...I now have 5 wires within 500-650 Ohms resistance and the #1 wire just over 6000 Ohms. The new one from ATR that came was over 10,000 and the new one that I inicially changed to was over 14,000 so I vent with my old 7mm wire. No changes at all but.....

Guys! Just got off the phone with one of my ty buddies and have kicked myself in the b#%¬ a 1000 times!!! Gap is to be 0.35 right? Inches that is right? What do you think you will get if you go to the hardware store over her in Europe and buy a measuring tool for spark plugs??? A METRIC ONE! So what will happen if one is as stupid as I am and gaps his plugs with such a tool to 0.35? He will end up with 6 plugs gaped to 0.14 Inches!!!...and a bad running truck! If one of you guys is going to tell me that 0.35 is milimeter I will search further, if not I will just correct my gaps and go play on the streets again... :evil: #"§&°£!!! Thanks for all the posts to this topic, appreciated your help.

Pat
93 Ty blk/blk
#1044 (Only 3 more days till her birthday :grin: - she s'got to fly again by then)

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: blownamigo on 2002-01-25 06:07 ]</font>
 
R

Richme

New member
On 2002-01-25 06:02, blownamigo wrote:
Gap is to be 0.35 right?
Click to expand...

The CR42TS come gapped at .35, at least, that is my experience. However, I always double check it.

_________________
Rich
'93 Ty White/White
Carson City, Nv
MODS

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Richme on 2002-01-25 08:45 ]</font>
 
J

JoeLutz

New member
You are correct. The .035 is in inches. NOT .35. We here in the US tend to take units for granted. :wink: There are 25.4 mm in an inch, so .035 x 25.4 = .889mm.
 
blownamigo

blownamigo

TYed Up Member
Fixed that gap prob on saturday. Regapped all plugs to 0.85mm, fired it up and YES! It is running sweeeeet now!
Thank you guys!

Pat
 
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