![Quickstop [UK]](/forums/data/avatars/m/5/5165.jpg?1570199786){kind=avatar}
Quickstop [UK]
Combating adversyty.
Re: UK Typhoon running bad
What kind of plug is it?
What kind of plug is it?
UK Typhoon running bad
- Thread starter UK-typhoon
- Start date
UK-typhoon
New member
Re: UK Typhoon running bad
The plugs were champion RV12YC with a gap of 40 thou. I've swapped these out for Denso TR20PR-U, as recommended by my parts supplier as an equivalent for NGK UR6. I have gapped these at 32 thou. I have test driven the truck and from a standstill, hit the floor with the accelerator and the truck pulls away upto 15psi of boost then it sounds like it is firing into the exhaust and performance is diminished. This is the main problem with the truck.
I've set the timing to 0 degrees with the tan wire disconnected. Which has made no difference.
The inside of the cap looks fine, in regards to the electrodes.
The wastegate was fitted to the truck already when my friend bought the truck, it is a 50mm HKS style external wastegate.
My friend has ordered a ALDL cable so I will hopefully be able to share some data from that.
The truck does have an aftermarket dump valve fitted also.
Thanks
The plugs were champion RV12YC with a gap of 40 thou. I've swapped these out for Denso TR20PR-U, as recommended by my parts supplier as an equivalent for NGK UR6. I have gapped these at 32 thou. I have test driven the truck and from a standstill, hit the floor with the accelerator and the truck pulls away upto 15psi of boost then it sounds like it is firing into the exhaust and performance is diminished. This is the main problem with the truck.
I've set the timing to 0 degrees with the tan wire disconnected. Which has made no difference.
The inside of the cap looks fine, in regards to the electrodes.
The wastegate was fitted to the truck already when my friend bought the truck, it is a 50mm HKS style external wastegate.
My friend has ordered a ALDL cable so I will hopefully be able to share some data from that.
The truck does have an aftermarket dump valve fitted also.
Thanks
Davemc1963
93 Ty Owner
Re: UK Typhoon running bad
The ferrite magnet (reluctor?) under the the rotor arm cracked on mine and I ended up replacing the dissy with an MSD Billet unit. Yours dosen't look like mine, and your module is a standard motor parts aftermarket unit. Is there some history there?
Also are you sure you have true TDC and your balancer hasn't slipped? I've just replaced mine, the outer ring had slipped quite a bit and after I removed it, it popped off the hub with a few knocks with a mallet! The rubber had gone hard and had split in places. In fact, the rubber outer face where it contacted the outer ring was really hard and slippery, no wonder they all seem to slip on these motors over time.
To find true TDC, I made a piston stop out of an old spark plug. If you shell it out, removing all the porcelain and ground strap , (file it smooth). I then ran an M10 tap down it and used an m10 x 70mm long (or longer) set bolt, I needed about the 70mm length to contact the piston, as you are approaching the piston crown at quite a shallow angle. You have to turn the engine slowly and adjust the screw length carefully to get the length right in relation to the piston, so the piston is very near to TDC when it contacts the stop. I got it so that I had about a 20-25 degree split when I turned the engine back and forth to contact the stop, (just within the range of the timing mark/pointer on the timing cover). If you make a mark, or measure the positions either way, TDC is in the middle of the two marks. Another issue I had was with the engine earths (grounds) At the front near the thermostat housing and at the rear of the drivers side head. You could also have a weak fuel pump, blocked fuel filter, or a split hose to the FPR that isn't obvious. If it sees over 15psi on the stock chip, it just cuts fuel. Mine also did this when I got it and I have fought issues with overboosting all the time I have had it. I have a solution now, but that is the least of my problems with it at the minute, in the Gonzalo gales on Monday, my bonnet flipped open, as I have the front end off and it smashed against the windscreen and cowl. Its made a bit of a mess of the best two panels on it would you believe. I'm pretty sick about it and am now on the look out for a pair of hood hinges. So, you thought you had problems!! Anyway, when you get some data, it may all become clearer.
The ferrite magnet (reluctor?) under the the rotor arm cracked on mine and I ended up replacing the dissy with an MSD Billet unit. Yours dosen't look like mine, and your module is a standard motor parts aftermarket unit. Is there some history there?
Also are you sure you have true TDC and your balancer hasn't slipped? I've just replaced mine, the outer ring had slipped quite a bit and after I removed it, it popped off the hub with a few knocks with a mallet! The rubber had gone hard and had split in places. In fact, the rubber outer face where it contacted the outer ring was really hard and slippery, no wonder they all seem to slip on these motors over time.
To find true TDC, I made a piston stop out of an old spark plug. If you shell it out, removing all the porcelain and ground strap , (file it smooth). I then ran an M10 tap down it and used an m10 x 70mm long (or longer) set bolt, I needed about the 70mm length to contact the piston, as you are approaching the piston crown at quite a shallow angle. You have to turn the engine slowly and adjust the screw length carefully to get the length right in relation to the piston, so the piston is very near to TDC when it contacts the stop. I got it so that I had about a 20-25 degree split when I turned the engine back and forth to contact the stop, (just within the range of the timing mark/pointer on the timing cover). If you make a mark, or measure the positions either way, TDC is in the middle of the two marks. Another issue I had was with the engine earths (grounds) At the front near the thermostat housing and at the rear of the drivers side head. You could also have a weak fuel pump, blocked fuel filter, or a split hose to the FPR that isn't obvious. If it sees over 15psi on the stock chip, it just cuts fuel. Mine also did this when I got it and I have fought issues with overboosting all the time I have had it. I have a solution now, but that is the least of my problems with it at the minute, in the Gonzalo gales on Monday, my bonnet flipped open, as I have the front end off and it smashed against the windscreen and cowl. Its made a bit of a mess of the best two panels on it would you believe. I'm pretty sick about it and am now on the look out for a pair of hood hinges. So, you thought you had problems!! Anyway, when you get some data, it may all become clearer.
Last edited:
Re: UK Typhoon running bad
I disagree because the O2 sensor is what reads your A/F ratio. If your dumping a good chunk of exhaust out, the O2 sensor isn't reading that. It's like a major exhaust leak before the O2 sensor which is never good. The BOV won't affect A/F ratios because it vents off air before it even enters the engine. Once it enters the engine, the MAP sensor will tell the ECU how much pressure the intake manifold has and the ECU will adjust.
I disagree because the O2 sensor is what reads your A/F ratio. If your dumping a good chunk of exhaust out, the O2 sensor isn't reading that. It's like a major exhaust leak before the O2 sensor which is never good. The BOV won't affect A/F ratios because it vents off air before it even enters the engine. Once it enters the engine, the MAP sensor will tell the ECU how much pressure the intake manifold has and the ECU will adjust.