won't start, no trouble codes

[ctadams21]

I just put my Syclone motor in a 90 s10 and I can't get it to start. Here are the facts.

I used the origional Syclone engine harness and fuel pump.
Truck is getting fire, fuel pump primes when key is on, there is fuel in the lines right up to the injectors.
When cranked over, the engine does not even attempt to start unless a small amound of ether is used ( I know this is not good to do but I just wanted to see if this would get the ball rolling)
At the injector plug, I have almost 12 volts with the key on. It appears to drop to around 9 volts when cranking.
When I jump the A and B under dash terminals with a paper clip, I get no trouble code....not even a code 12. I know the engine light works because it flashes on for a brief second when I hit the key.
I checked the chip and it appears to be secure. I also noticed that it has a pit bull chip in it.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Clayton

 

[Jimmy]

Bad gas?

 

[ctadams21]

The gas is probably 6 -9 months old. Wouldn't it at least try to fire, then run rough if the gas was bad?

 

[Jimmy]

I had the same problem with a car I had just put a motor in,I quadruple checked EVERYTHING,turned out to be bad/stale gas.It never would try to fire unless I poured some fresh gas in the carb.

 

[TyMeUp]

Re: won't start, no trouble codes

When I jump the A and B under dash terminals with a paper clip, I get no trouble code....not even a code 12. I know the engine light works because it flashes on for a brief second when I hit the key.
I checked the chip and it appears to be secure. I also noticed that it has a pit bull chip in it.

Any ideas?

Thanks

Clayton

Your ECM appears to be 'dead'. The 'Check Engine' light should be 'ON' steady when the key is 'ON'... not just flash briefly. This light will only go out when the ECM receives reference pulses from the distributor (engine running) and there are no codes set.

Are you using the complete ECM and ECM wiring harness from the donor Syclone? If you are, find an ECM 'pin-out' chart to identify terminals and wire color codes. Use a digital voltmeter to backprobe the ECM connector. Test for +12V power on the designated power terminals (key should be on). Also test all designated ground terminals for continuity back to the battery negative.

Post again if this doesn't find the problem.

 

[ctadams21]

The ECM is from the doner truck as well as the engine harness.
I will do the volt meter check as soon as I can get my hands on a wiring diagram. Thanks for the advise. I was not sure if the ECM could be dead since the fuel pump primed and I was getting spark...I guess those are not controlled by the ECM. Thanks again.

Clayton

 

[ctadams21]

I found a pin out chart for the 24 pin connector (thanks Huryde.com) but not for the 32 pins. So I backprobed the 24 pin connection.
The grounds had continuity to the neg cable of the battery and the hot wires had almost 12 V. The 5V grey wires showed 5V. Still no engine light.
A local Auto Zone has an ECM but it sure would be nice to know that this is for sure the problem.

 

[TyMeUp]

If you can find/borrow a factory Syclone/Typhoon shop manual supplement (or a CD manual?), the ECM pinouts are provided as follows:

In the 1993 Manual Supplement, pages 3A-86 to 3A-90 cover the complete ECM circuits and pinouts. In the 1992 Manual, the same pages are 6E3-A-3 to 6E3-A-7. I do not have a 1991 manual, but the info is probably in the same place as the 1992 book.

You should also follow the pages with Chart A-1 'No "Check Engine" Light'. This will specifically test the light circuit. Chart A-2 covers more "Check Engine" light problems, and Chart A-3 covers "No Start" diagnosis.

The 1991, 1992, and 1993 SyTy Supplement manuals are still available @ $60 from Helm Incorporated: http://www.helminc.com/
To find the specific manual, enter the 'year', 'model' = Typhoon or Syclone, ... for 'document type' leave it at (All Types).

 

[ctadams21]

TyMeUp

I just got my supplement today. Checked the charts you listed and within 5 min, the problem was solved. I noticed the wire colors were not jiving. Then I noticed some moron (me) had the two 32 pin connectors switched. The locators are supposed to prevent a mix up but mine were worn enough that I managed to screw it up.

The truck is running and so far has not set off any codes.

Thanks for all the help.

Clayton

 

[TyMeUp]

Not your fault. Murphy's Law states that "a round plug will always fit into a square hole".

Another Murphy's Law to look out for when working on your car or truck: "When a part is accidently dropped, it will land in such a way as to do the most damage". And a Corollary to this: "The amount of damage sustained when you drop a part rises exponentially with the value of that part".

Glad to have been a help.

Pete