4l80e Help
- Thread starter autoaddictions
- Start date
George Blake
DONATING MEMBER
Re: 4l80e Help
Good. Something simple. Frank, I'm gonna send you a different 2nd accumulator setup for yours while you've got it up. Did you take the torsion mounts loose to get it out? If so, replace them with the newer style. I'll send you a couple. Torsion mounts tear up on these quite a bit and you might as well replace them while they are out.
Make sure you stick a plastic bag over the back of the trans and let the output shaft pop through. This bag will keep any metal particles from getting into the transmission.
Sorry, Gary. I put your name in the post earlier where I meant to type Frank about the 2nd accumulator in the rear servo.
Good. Something simple. Frank, I'm gonna send you a different 2nd accumulator setup for yours while you've got it up. Did you take the torsion mounts loose to get it out? If so, replace them with the newer style. I'll send you a couple. Torsion mounts tear up on these quite a bit and you might as well replace them while they are out.
Make sure you stick a plastic bag over the back of the trans and let the output shaft pop through. This bag will keep any metal particles from getting into the transmission.
Sorry, Gary. I put your name in the post earlier where I meant to type Frank about the 2nd accumulator in the rear servo.
Last edited:
George Blake
DONATING MEMBER
Re: 4l80e Help
Gary, you have to unload the bars to get the mounts off. Count the threads on each torson key, write it down. I've got a torsion bar unloading tool if you need it. Then you can replace the mounts in the crossmember while it's out. MUCH easier than removing the trans.
Gary, you have to unload the bars to get the mounts off. Count the threads on each torson key, write it down. I've got a torsion bar unloading tool if you need it. Then you can replace the mounts in the crossmember while it's out. MUCH easier than removing the trans.
Last edited:
George Blake
DONATING MEMBER
Re: 4l80e Help
Gary asked how to get the torsion crossmember out.
Like I said, MUCH easier than pulling the trans out. Count the threads on the torsion key adjuster bolts and write each side down before taking them out. Take the weight of the vehicle OFF the wheels. This will let the front suspension drop down so you don't have 4000 pounds of truck loading up the bars.
Motormite makes an updated mount to replace the stock mounts too. I highly recommend them while they are out.
If you have Mike or JSMan coilovers, this bar gets eliminated anyway.
Gary asked how to get the torsion crossmember out.
Like I said, MUCH easier than pulling the trans out. Count the threads on the torsion key adjuster bolts and write each side down before taking them out. Take the weight of the vehicle OFF the wheels. This will let the front suspension drop down so you don't have 4000 pounds of truck loading up the bars.
Motormite makes an updated mount to replace the stock mounts too. I highly recommend them while they are out.
If you have Mike or JSMan coilovers, this bar gets eliminated anyway.
Re: 4l80e Help
no it's not. it just looks that way.... it's rivited to the bracket that's bolted in. :tup: lookie closer.
gjp said:
no it's not. it just looks that way.... it's rivited to the bracket that's bolted in. :tup: lookie closer.
Re: 4l80e Help
it's a real pain in the ass but when i did the front coilovers..i went to cut the torsion bar crossmember in half to get it out....thought that was the only way....but there are 2 bolts per side that hold that bracket to the frame. i did not have to drill out any rivets to remove the crossmember... once the 4 bolts are removed the crossmember can be slid back enough to do what you are trying to accomplish provided the bars aren't rusted all to hell inside the lower a arms. now that's a totally diff situation.
it's a real pain in the ass but when i did the front coilovers..i went to cut the torsion bar crossmember in half to get it out....thought that was the only way....but there are 2 bolts per side that hold that bracket to the frame. i did not have to drill out any rivets to remove the crossmember... once the 4 bolts are removed the crossmember can be slid back enough to do what you are trying to accomplish provided the bars aren't rusted all to hell inside the lower a arms. now that's a totally diff situation.
gjp
another post whore
Re: 4l80e Help
truck for sale in clasified section. I just dont have the time to take 1 step foward and 2 back every weekend on this. I have a family I have not spent a weekend with in 5 months and a 3400lb paper weight that just does not want to get fixed for me. I should have got the GN instead or kept my roush. What was I thinking!!!
truck for sale in clasified section. I just dont have the time to take 1 step foward and 2 back every weekend on this. I have a family I have not spent a weekend with in 5 months and a 3400lb paper weight that just does not want to get fixed for me. I should have got the GN instead or kept my roush. What was I thinking!!!
autoaddictions
Active member
Re: 4l80e Help
OK GUYS I JUST DID THIS !! tHE CROSSMEMBER THAT SPANS THE FRAME FROM LEFT TO RIGHT IS RIVETED AT THE TOP! yOU HAVE TO USE A DIE GRINDER FROM THE BOTTOM AND GRIND THE HEAD DOWN FLAT WITH THE FRAME. THEN USE A AIR HAMMER TO POP THEM THREW THE TOP. yOU CAN REPLACE THE RIVET WITH A BOLT AND NUT LATER. nOW THE BAD NEWS THE BOTTOM IS SPOT WELDED 3/4S OF AN INCH FROM THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BRAKET TO REAR. I USED AN AIR CHISEL TO SEPARATE THE WELD. NOW YOU CAN BEAT THE CROSSMENBER BACK A GOOD 6" TO MAKE ROOM FOR THE TC CASE TO DROP OFF. YOU WILL HAVE TO GRIND DOWN THE SPOT WELD FLAT TO SLIDE CROSSMEMBER BACK INTO POSITION!! tHIS IS HARD WORK BE ADVISED. ILL POST PICS TONIGHT. HOPE THIS HELPS!!
OK GUYS I JUST DID THIS !! tHE CROSSMEMBER THAT SPANS THE FRAME FROM LEFT TO RIGHT IS RIVETED AT THE TOP! yOU HAVE TO USE A DIE GRINDER FROM THE BOTTOM AND GRIND THE HEAD DOWN FLAT WITH THE FRAME. THEN USE A AIR HAMMER TO POP THEM THREW THE TOP. yOU CAN REPLACE THE RIVET WITH A BOLT AND NUT LATER. nOW THE BAD NEWS THE BOTTOM IS SPOT WELDED 3/4S OF AN INCH FROM THE FRONT SIDE OF THE BRAKET TO REAR. I USED AN AIR CHISEL TO SEPARATE THE WELD. NOW YOU CAN BEAT THE CROSSMENBER BACK A GOOD 6" TO MAKE ROOM FOR THE TC CASE TO DROP OFF. YOU WILL HAVE TO GRIND DOWN THE SPOT WELD FLAT TO SLIDE CROSSMEMBER BACK INTO POSITION!! tHIS IS HARD WORK BE ADVISED. ILL POST PICS TONIGHT. HOPE THIS HELPS!!
Re: 4l80e Help
well then i stand corrected.....i will go out on a limb here and guesstimate that my crossmember had been removed proir to me owning it. b/c there were no rivets in mine. gotta love these trucks....there's a suprise around every corner.
autoaddictions said:
well then i stand corrected.....i will go out on a limb here and guesstimate that my crossmember had been removed proir to me owning it. b/c there were no rivets in mine. gotta love these trucks....there's a suprise around every corner.
George Blake
DONATING MEMBER
Re: 4l80e Help
Mine's not like that. That's weird as hell. Mine, you can take loose and lift right up off the frame. Both sides. I've replaced my torsion bar mounts. That's what holds it to the frame is the mounts. Is the rivet through the frame of the bar or the mount? It doesn't make sense.
Some things I've learned.
Solid engine mounts put everything up a 1/2". This causes clearance problems. Gilbert, trans, everything.
GM does EVERY truck different. No two trucks are the same. PITA.
The shaft that Gary sent me, I didn't measure. He bought it from someone that said it was a JS kit. The shaft that's in Frank's was modeled off the one Gary sent me. So his ended up being just like Gary's. It obviously wasn't a JS kit. This won't happen again.
Frank, turn off the caps. Looks like your yelling. That's how people will take it.
I put a LOT of work into these things. This pisses me off to no end. I measure everything inside to the thousanths on tolerances and then the frigging output shaft was 3/8" too long. Which in the grand scheme of things is nothing but won't happen again.
I don't produce crap. If Gary wants to sell his truck over 3/8" of an output shaft length, I can't stop that. Someone go get them a hell of a deal.
Mine's not like that. That's weird as hell. Mine, you can take loose and lift right up off the frame. Both sides. I've replaced my torsion bar mounts. That's what holds it to the frame is the mounts. Is the rivet through the frame of the bar or the mount? It doesn't make sense.
Some things I've learned.
Solid engine mounts put everything up a 1/2". This causes clearance problems. Gilbert, trans, everything.
GM does EVERY truck different. No two trucks are the same. PITA.
The shaft that Gary sent me, I didn't measure. He bought it from someone that said it was a JS kit. The shaft that's in Frank's was modeled off the one Gary sent me. So his ended up being just like Gary's. It obviously wasn't a JS kit. This won't happen again.
Frank, turn off the caps. Looks like your yelling. That's how people will take it.
I put a LOT of work into these things. This pisses me off to no end. I measure everything inside to the thousanths on tolerances and then the frigging output shaft was 3/8" too long. Which in the grand scheme of things is nothing but won't happen again.
I don't produce crap. If Gary wants to sell his truck over 3/8" of an output shaft length, I can't stop that. Someone go get them a hell of a deal.
Six-is-Enough
Use to do a little Boost
Re: 4l80e Help
X2. A little more work now but you will be much happier when you get to drive it.:tup:
\MRKING said:
X2. A little more work now but you will be much happier when you get to drive it.:tup:
George Blake
DONATING MEMBER
Re: 4l80e Help
Gary has had issues with EVERYTHING that he has worked on. My part is mine is the last thing. The trans is fine. The output shaft he sent me is just too long. I didn't check it. I just trusted it was a JS kit. And it bites me in the ass. Then guys wonder why I don't like to let them buy stuff other places for me to put in something I'm building. Yes. This has permanently changed policy.
Gary you shouldn't sell your truck. You bit off a huge project. This wasn't just a 4L80e. You changed EVERYTHING in the truck. I've not left guys hung out to dry. It's an easy fix and I've made myself available to help in every way possible.
Frank has a lift so when he says it's a HARD project, laugh to yourself while you lay on your back on a piece of cardboard
I had a Sy for a long time and now have a Ty and NEITHER of them has the crossemember welded to the frame. It defeats the purpose of the mount. The mount is a rubber isolator. Unless the mounts broke and they took it in to get it fixed and that was how the shop fixed it. I just can't control this stuff. But I can control output shaft length and I will from now on.
Gary has had issues with EVERYTHING that he has worked on. My part is mine is the last thing. The trans is fine. The output shaft he sent me is just too long. I didn't check it. I just trusted it was a JS kit. And it bites me in the ass. Then guys wonder why I don't like to let them buy stuff other places for me to put in something I'm building. Yes. This has permanently changed policy.
Gary you shouldn't sell your truck. You bit off a huge project. This wasn't just a 4L80e. You changed EVERYTHING in the truck. I've not left guys hung out to dry. It's an easy fix and I've made myself available to help in every way possible.
Frank has a lift so when he says it's a HARD project, laugh to yourself while you lay on your back on a piece of cardboard
I had a Sy for a long time and now have a Ty and NEITHER of them has the crossemember welded to the frame. It defeats the purpose of the mount. The mount is a rubber isolator. Unless the mounts broke and they took it in to get it fixed and that was how the shop fixed it. I just can't control this stuff. But I can control output shaft length and I will from now on.
Re: 4l80e Help
Mine's not like that. That's weird as hell. Mine, you can take loose and lift right up off the frame. Both sides. I've replaced my torsion bar mounts. That's what holds it to the frame is the mounts. Is the rivet through the frame of the bar or the mount? It doesn't make sense.
Some things I've learned.
same as mine....once again..you gotta love these trucks.
Mine's not like that. That's weird as hell. Mine, you can take loose and lift right up off the frame. Both sides. I've replaced my torsion bar mounts. That's what holds it to the frame is the mounts. Is the rivet through the frame of the bar or the mount? It doesn't make sense.
Some things I've learned.
same as mine....once again..you gotta love these trucks.
gjp
another post whore
Re: 4l80e Help
Its Not The 3/8. Its Getting To The ****ing Thing. The Engine Went In No Problem. I Had No Problems With The Engine,computer,turbo Or Anything Else. Just The Trans Stuff. Not Blaming You George. Its Not Your Fault At All. I Was Close To Finishing Yesterday. Now I Have Another 2 Weeks Ahead Of Me. Remeber I Am Not A Mechanic. I Have Just Hand Tools And A Small Compressor And My Truck Is On Jacks.
Its Not The 3/8. Its Getting To The ****ing Thing. The Engine Went In No Problem. I Had No Problems With The Engine,computer,turbo Or Anything Else. Just The Trans Stuff. Not Blaming You George. Its Not Your Fault At All. I Was Close To Finishing Yesterday. Now I Have Another 2 Weeks Ahead Of Me. Remeber I Am Not A Mechanic. I Have Just Hand Tools And A Small Compressor And My Truck Is On Jacks.