AFPR Install
- Thread starter sy2185
- Start date
jwaller
Evil Genius/SyTy Guru
The FPR is located on the pass side, rear area under the EGR valve and IC. this can be done without removing the IC but do yourself a favor and take it off anyway, clean it and reinstall. besides when you take it off your going to want to spray some carb cleaner down inside the upper intake BC it's going to be really dirty.....SO OK...remove the IC, remove the EGR valve. Then get yourself a 17mm and losen the nut located on the bottom of the factory FPR be careful not to bend the fuel rail if it's really tight. then get a set of allen wrenches and remove the two bolts the hold it in place. R&R the bolts and line and repeat in reverse order. GOOD LUCK
Daron
Active member
http://www.syty.net/phpBB/viewtopic.php?topic=8547&forum=3
That is how I do it, I dont remove the EGR. Don't forget to counter the torque applied to the nut on the fuel line by using what I think is a 3/4 inch wrench (going by memory)on the bottom of the FPR.
I pop the PCV out of the tube and get it out of the way to make more room for the wrench.
Also, relieve the pressure in the rail and do it with the truck cool. You will still need to put a rag under the regulator to prevent the fuel that leaks out of the rail and the regulator from going all over.
Some vasaline on the rubber grommet will help you pop the new regulator on the rail.
Good luck,
Daron
That is how I do it, I dont remove the EGR. Don't forget to counter the torque applied to the nut on the fuel line by using what I think is a 3/4 inch wrench (going by memory)on the bottom of the FPR.
I pop the PCV out of the tube and get it out of the way to make more room for the wrench.
Also, relieve the pressure in the rail and do it with the truck cool. You will still need to put a rag under the regulator to prevent the fuel that leaks out of the rail and the regulator from going all over.
Some vasaline on the rubber grommet will help you pop the new regulator on the rail.
Good luck,
Daron
I did mine using Daron's instructions (and having him look over my shoulder) and it went fine. I was really reading more into it than I needed to. For the O-Ring we used motor oil off the dipstick - just something to keep it lubed up for a good seal. When putting the allen bolts in try to tighten them in equal amounts - not tightening one side all the way - than going and doing the other. Just take your time and if you have a digital camara take pics so you can see how things go back together. You shouldn't have to - but just in case. If you have done the heater hose IC upgrade it will help BIG time. It will also save you from having to drain the IC - if you haven't done it - now could be a good time.