Probably been covered before but couldn't find it. What gears and what type of diff is installed in the Ty's, front and rear. Upon backing out of the garage for the first time ever last week after a year to complete, I could not help myself. I spooled up the turbo and slammed the throttle. It only spun 3 tires. 2 rears and 1 front. It made me wonder if the front is open and the rear is limited slip. I know the gears are the same front and rear, just not sure about the traction.
Differential question
- Thread starter pauly78
- Start date
warmpancakes
New member
Re: Differential question
Rear has a locker front is open
Rear has a locker front is open
DMTY
Member
Re: Differential question
Hey long time lurker here. The front pinnion bearing went out on my ty and I was looking for sugestions on weather to rebuild it or look for an entire assembly.
Also are the front and rear ring and pinion gears different part numbers?
Where do you suggest I look for gears and bearings?
Hey long time lurker here. The front pinnion bearing went out on my ty and I was looking for sugestions on weather to rebuild it or look for an entire assembly.
Also are the front and rear ring and pinion gears different part numbers?
Where do you suggest I look for gears and bearings?
'JustDreamin'
Dream: 6LV8 Turbo Bravada
Re: Differential question
Front is a 7.25" ring gear IFS assembly.
Rear is a 7.625" 10 bolt solid axle.
I wouldn't expect any parts to interchange between them.
I haven't rebuilt one, but a couple of guys on here with lots of rears under their belts said the 7.25 IFS was one of (if not the) hardest rears to set up correctly. Probably a case were buying a good used one would have better results, but the trick then is finding a GOOD used one.
There are a couple of big mail order diff places. I'd try either Randy's Ring & Pinion or Reider Racing for starters.
Good Luck!
'JustDreamin'
Front is a 7.25" ring gear IFS assembly.
Rear is a 7.625" 10 bolt solid axle.
I wouldn't expect any parts to interchange between them.
I haven't rebuilt one, but a couple of guys on here with lots of rears under their belts said the 7.25 IFS was one of (if not the) hardest rears to set up correctly. Probably a case were buying a good used one would have better results, but the trick then is finding a GOOD used one.
There are a couple of big mail order diff places. I'd try either Randy's Ring & Pinion or Reider Racing for starters.
Good Luck!
'JustDreamin'
DMTY
Member
Re: Differential question
Thanks for the help.
If I were going to purchased an entire assembly from a junk yard is there a way I can tell the ratio without opening the case?
Is there an easy way to check the condition of these units?
I'm probably going to have to remove the assembly myself at the junkyard and would hate to spend the time on the wrong part or a trashed part.
Thanks for the help.
If I were going to purchased an entire assembly from a junk yard is there a way I can tell the ratio without opening the case?
Is there an easy way to check the condition of these units?
I'm probably going to have to remove the assembly myself at the junkyard and would hate to spend the time on the wrong part or a trashed part.
warmpancakes
New member
Re: Differential question
Just rebuild it, why buy a used part that might be good rebuild it for 200.00
Just rebuild it, why buy a used part that might be good rebuild it for 200.00
DMTY
Member
Re: Differential question
Where can I find a ring and pinion for under 200? I'll admit I haven't completed my search yet but if you have a link that would be appreciated.
I haven't torn into the assembly yet so I'm not sure what condition the gears are in. The pinion bearing failed and there is quite a bit of free play. Would this be enough to destroy them? If not I'm fine with just replacing the bearings.
Where can I find a ring and pinion for under 200? I'll admit I haven't completed my search yet but if you have a link that would be appreciated.
I haven't torn into the assembly yet so I'm not sure what condition the gears are in. The pinion bearing failed and there is quite a bit of free play. Would this be enough to destroy them? If not I'm fine with just replacing the bearings.
warmpancakes
New member
Re: Differential question
any dealer can get the parts while you have it out replace the bushings and add a drain
any dealer can get the parts while you have it out replace the bushings and add a drain
'JustDreamin'
Dream: 6LV8 Turbo Bravada
Re: Differential question
I didn't see anybody who had "normal" gearsets for under $200 (you can get 4.56's for under $200).
And then you've got to add a full rebuild kit with all the bearings and seals.
And learn how to set it up or pay somebody to do it. My guess is you're looking at $400 (doing it yourself) to $750 (paying someone to do it, hoping they do it right).
Adding a drain or swapping to a later model case with a drain is an excellent idea.
Here's some links:
http://www.justdifferentials.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=22_31_74
http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_cat...can_axle_7.25_front_ring_gear_and_pinion.html
http://www.rearendparts.com/home.php?cat=339
http://www.ringpinion.com/DiffDetai...ff&TypeID=5&Type=GM&DiffID=38&DiffName=GM+7.2
http://www.ringpinion.com/PartsList...Name=Rings+&+Pinions&CatType=Sub-Differential
http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com/categories/gm/gm-725-ifs/
'JustDreamin'
I didn't see anybody who had "normal" gearsets for under $200 (you can get 4.56's for under $200).
And then you've got to add a full rebuild kit with all the bearings and seals.
And learn how to set it up or pay somebody to do it. My guess is you're looking at $400 (doing it yourself) to $750 (paying someone to do it, hoping they do it right).
Adding a drain or swapping to a later model case with a drain is an excellent idea.
Here's some links:
http://www.justdifferentials.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=22_31_74
http://www.drivetrain.com/parts_cat...can_axle_7.25_front_ring_gear_and_pinion.html
http://www.rearendparts.com/home.php?cat=339
http://www.ringpinion.com/DiffDetai...ff&TypeID=5&Type=GM&DiffID=38&DiffName=GM+7.2
http://www.ringpinion.com/PartsList...Name=Rings+&+Pinions&CatType=Sub-Differential
http://www.drivetrainspecialists.com/categories/gm/gm-725-ifs/
'JustDreamin'
Colorado_typhoon
New member
Re: Differential question
Holy crap the rear is only a 7.625? And the front only a 7.25? I'm really surprised they don't grenade more often. I thought they were bigger than that.
Holy crap the rear is only a 7.625? And the front only a 7.25? I'm really surprised they don't grenade more often. I thought they were bigger than that.
'JustDreamin'
Dream: 6LV8 Turbo Bravada
Re: Differential question
The 7.625" 10 bolt is exactly what all 4th gen camaros came with. Every single one of them. Which in my opinion was STUPID! What business does a 7 5/8" 10 bolt have behind a LS1 making 350 hp from the factory (they were underated)? None. Especially behind a manual trans. I think that axle originated in the Vega, behind a 4 cylinder.
The biggest problem is that they're hit or miss. Some of them will break if you look at them funny, some of them have gone 10's (maybe faster) behind manual transmissions.
Which is why there are an awful lot of 4th gen Z28's with 12 bolts, 8.5" 10 bolts, and 9" Fords under them. Or that are on their 3rd or 4th gearset in the stock housing (mines on it's 3rd, and its a LT1 bolton car).
There's a couple reasons that they live in Sy's and Ty's:
1.) They're seeing part of the power, not all of it. 65% of 500 ft lbs is only 325.
2.) They're automatics, so you don't have the shock loading of a manual (it takes the slack out and doesn't bang it back and forth on every shift).
3.) The turbo'd V6 makes good torque and power, but it isn't "instant". It takes a little time to build boost, which keeps it from creating shock loads (see above).
All those things add up to give both axles a good fighting chance. But some rears have been changed out either because of breakage or to prevent extreme excitement in the event of breakage (stock rear axle runs c-clips, when you loose them, oh what fun.)
'JustDreamin'
The 7.625" 10 bolt is exactly what all 4th gen camaros came with. Every single one of them. Which in my opinion was STUPID! What business does a 7 5/8" 10 bolt have behind a LS1 making 350 hp from the factory (they were underated)? None. Especially behind a manual trans. I think that axle originated in the Vega, behind a 4 cylinder.
The biggest problem is that they're hit or miss. Some of them will break if you look at them funny, some of them have gone 10's (maybe faster) behind manual transmissions.
Which is why there are an awful lot of 4th gen Z28's with 12 bolts, 8.5" 10 bolts, and 9" Fords under them. Or that are on their 3rd or 4th gearset in the stock housing (mines on it's 3rd, and its a LT1 bolton car).
There's a couple reasons that they live in Sy's and Ty's:
1.) They're seeing part of the power, not all of it. 65% of 500 ft lbs is only 325.
2.) They're automatics, so you don't have the shock loading of a manual (it takes the slack out and doesn't bang it back and forth on every shift).
3.) The turbo'd V6 makes good torque and power, but it isn't "instant". It takes a little time to build boost, which keeps it from creating shock loads (see above).
All those things add up to give both axles a good fighting chance. But some rears have been changed out either because of breakage or to prevent extreme excitement in the event of breakage (stock rear axle runs c-clips, when you loose them, oh what fun.)
'JustDreamin'
