Thunder_Lloyd
Active member
Looks great!
Full frame off resto
- Thread starter Terryphoon
- Start date
Thankyou for everyone's interest. It's certainly something I've always enjoyed. Hanging out with the old man just makes it more fun. He's very logical, quite laid back and optimistic so definitely a big help. Garage therapy would be a good name
I do try to put out content regularly, I'm sure we all get busy from time to time but there is a few other projects on this site that seemed to fizzle out. Maybe they're done and maybe not. Who knows. Anyone who sticks around long enough will see this truck complete.
Doing most of the work myself is for the personal satisfaction and enjoyment. I will have the trans and transfer case professionally rebuilt as well as the short block, mainly as I lack the major equipment and time to do these myself.
Till next time.
I do try to put out content regularly, I'm sure we all get busy from time to time but there is a few other projects on this site that seemed to fizzle out. Maybe they're done and maybe not. Who knows. Anyone who sticks around long enough will see this truck complete.
Doing most of the work myself is for the personal satisfaction and enjoyment. I will have the trans and transfer case professionally rebuilt as well as the short block, mainly as I lack the major equipment and time to do these myself.
Till next time.
Hey,
Was back over on Saturday again, (03/06/21) continuing with assembly.
I have all new tie rod inner, outer and sleave components, Pittman and Idler arms....this was my starting point for the day.
I measured the lenth of the old tie rods and set the new assemblies to the same ball to ball stud center lengths. This should get it close enough to drive over for an alignment when reddy.
The steering box is in good condition, no leaks, tight and the fluid I drained out was reasonably ok. I figured all it really needed was a thorough cleaning, proper painting and fresh fluid.
I changed the pitman arm, dropped the box on the frame and torqued to spec. Next was the crossbar and tie rods. I had a problem with one of the inner tie rods, the castellated nut would not thread on. Tried filling, wirewheeling the thread and a thread die. Nothing worked. Dam. Have to send it back.
Maybe I can get a different nut that works.
Was back over on Saturday again, (03/06/21) continuing with assembly.
I have all new tie rod inner, outer and sleave components, Pittman and Idler arms....this was my starting point for the day.
I measured the lenth of the old tie rods and set the new assemblies to the same ball to ball stud center lengths. This should get it close enough to drive over for an alignment when reddy.
The steering box is in good condition, no leaks, tight and the fluid I drained out was reasonably ok. I figured all it really needed was a thorough cleaning, proper painting and fresh fluid.
I changed the pitman arm, dropped the box on the frame and torqued to spec. Next was the crossbar and tie rods. I had a problem with one of the inner tie rods, the castellated nut would not thread on. Tried filling, wirewheeling the thread and a thread die. Nothing worked. Dam. Have to send it back.
Maybe I can get a different nut that works.
This weekend consisted of rear drum brakes and to install that last remaining tie rod end.
I took the new tie rod end (inner) to a few places that specialize in nuts and bolts. I was sure the thread was a 7/16 fine as the castle nut was that thread. However, the actual ball stud was M12x1.25. I acquired a new nut so that was done.
I also dropped off my old drums to have them turned. They were in excellent condition and if they weren't originals then they were replaced at some point with oem parts. They required almost nothing to bring them up to snuff. A sand blasting and coat of high heat paint and they were ready.
I'm taking the drive shafts in this week and I see what they need.
I also picked up all new parts for the rear drums for a complete rebuild. What a pain in the ass doing these. Been a long time since I've done drums and the manual wasn't a big help but after screwing around for an hour or so, both were done and they look good. Also managed to slip in the tie rod end to finnish off the steering components.
I took the new tie rod end (inner) to a few places that specialize in nuts and bolts. I was sure the thread was a 7/16 fine as the castle nut was that thread. However, the actual ball stud was M12x1.25. I acquired a new nut so that was done.
I also dropped off my old drums to have them turned. They were in excellent condition and if they weren't originals then they were replaced at some point with oem parts. They required almost nothing to bring them up to snuff. A sand blasting and coat of high heat paint and they were ready.
I'm taking the drive shafts in this week and I see what they need.
I also picked up all new parts for the rear drums for a complete rebuild. What a pain in the ass doing these. Been a long time since I've done drums and the manual wasn't a big help but after screwing around for an hour or so, both were done and they look good. Also managed to slip in the tie rod end to finnish off the steering components.
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Dropped off the old rear driveshaft to the rebuilders this week.
I called over to see if they we open and to enquire about pricing. They said about $200 bucks if the tube was ok. (It wasnt)
After leaving there on Wednesday morning, I asked them to give me a call with price. About 2 hours later, I got my answer. $550 + tax for steel cause all they could keep was the front slip joint. Or an aluminum alloy tube, again... keeping only the slip - $750 cash. Little rich but what the hell. I got the Al one. Picked up today and dam is it light. I can't believe the difference. Check out the pictures. Old one and the new.
I called over to see if they we open and to enquire about pricing. They said about $200 bucks if the tube was ok. (It wasnt)
After leaving there on Wednesday morning, I asked them to give me a call with price. About 2 hours later, I got my answer. $550 + tax for steel cause all they could keep was the front slip joint. Or an aluminum alloy tube, again... keeping only the slip - $750 cash. Little rich but what the hell. I got the Al one. Picked up today and dam is it light. I can't believe the difference. Check out the pictures. Old one and the new.
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Goodgollyjosh
Active member
I'm jealous, that looks awesome!
Yeah it turned out nice. I'm glad I spent the extra $$ and got the alloy tube. Looks really good in the truck but I've put it away untill the trans comes back from the rebuilders.
Hopefully I will get the call soon. They did/are totally disassembling trans and transfer cases, hot tanking and full buildup. Should come back looking brand new. Looking forward to posting those pictures
As for today, just got home from the old man's place. I've put the wheels on the truck so I can roll it around and moved a bunch of things around in the shop to gain access to the body.
Started buy removing the sound deadening from the floor and wire wheeling off the old paint and crap. I vacuumed up the leftovers and this is where I've left off for the day. I'll leave dad to take the flap wheel to really cleanup the floor and prep for the installation of the new panels. I will do the drivers side first complete with the new body mount and then move to the passenger side. Although I haven't purchased yet, I'm intending on painting the floor inside and underneath with white por-15 top coat. I think it should turn out well.
Hopefully I will get the call soon. They did/are totally disassembling trans and transfer cases, hot tanking and full buildup. Should come back looking brand new. Looking forward to posting those pictures
As for today, just got home from the old man's place. I've put the wheels on the truck so I can roll it around and moved a bunch of things around in the shop to gain access to the body.
Started buy removing the sound deadening from the floor and wire wheeling off the old paint and crap. I vacuumed up the leftovers and this is where I've left off for the day. I'll leave dad to take the flap wheel to really cleanup the floor and prep for the installation of the new panels. I will do the drivers side first complete with the new body mount and then move to the passenger side. Although I haven't purchased yet, I'm intending on painting the floor inside and underneath with white por-15 top coat. I think it should turn out well.
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Few "before" pictures of the engine as it sits right now. Its pretty nasty on the inside. (Wish I had a picture to should you) I will be taking this in soon. I need to figure out what I'm going to pick for cam. I've been reading this forum to see what other guys have been running. Just looking for a bit of improvement over stock. Nothing crazy. I'm definitely up for recommendations from you guys.
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Here is the newest pictures of the driver side foot well. It's bad but not as bad as I originally thought. Most just light coating of surface rust. Mainly bad around the actual body mount. Now that some of the rust/paint has been removed, it actually looks worse on the inside then it does on the bottom of the truck.
I will add pictures as this part of the build progresses. So far, just getting things out of the way and preparing for the floor pan change out.
I will add pictures as this part of the build progresses. So far, just getting things out of the way and preparing for the floor pan change out.
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Goodgollyjosh
Active member
I'm not familiar with Typhoon floor pans, was a repair done previously to the upper right section of the trans tunnel? On my Sy, the shifter cable would come through just to the right of the that.
I don't think there has been any repairs done to this floor previous to my ownership but if so, I can't detect any seams.
The shift cable has been removed and all wiring pushed off to the right in the above picture.
The top right corner does have a small 6x8 inch square of foil backed sound deadening material stuck to the trans tunnel. This along with other pieces will have to be removed along with the floor paint from front to back. The floor is not actually as bad as it looks. Hopefully I don't find any other bad spots.
The shift cable has been removed and all wiring pushed off to the right in the above picture.
The top right corner does have a small 6x8 inch square of foil backed sound deadening material stuck to the trans tunnel. This along with other pieces will have to be removed along with the floor paint from front to back. The floor is not actually as bad as it looks. Hopefully I don't find any other bad spots.
Goodgollyjosh
Active member
Oh, it was the foil throwing me off. Lovin' the updates. Keep up the good work man. You're making really fast progress.
Got home from work today and surprise surprise, an oder from summit and jegs both showed up. Figures I'm oncall this weekend and will not be working on the truck.
Anyways, today's shipment consisted of
Motor mounts
3 rolls of stainless steel brake line
2 large bags of stainless brake tube nuts
Slotted and cross drilled rotors
Hi-po bake pads
Stainless flex lines for rear braks and front calpers
New calpers
I sandblasted the old calipers but couldn't find replacement O-rings and seals. Not even a listing at NAPA or anywhere else. I just purchased new calipers instead
Also picked up the fully rebuild trans. (Some strange reason they didn't do the transfer case!?) Anyways the bands inside were toast and a few other parts were replaced but apparently it's tuff as nails now. Only problem, they painted it black. DAM. And the aluminum colour I have is too shiny. I really like the cast iron colour and will most likely paint it that once I get the transfer case back and bolt them together.
Going over on good Friday to put a dent into the workload. Pictures to follow then
Anyways, today's shipment consisted of
Motor mounts
3 rolls of stainless steel brake line
2 large bags of stainless brake tube nuts
Slotted and cross drilled rotors
Hi-po bake pads
Stainless flex lines for rear braks and front calpers
New calpers
I sandblasted the old calipers but couldn't find replacement O-rings and seals. Not even a listing at NAPA or anywhere else. I just purchased new calipers instead
Also picked up the fully rebuild trans. (Some strange reason they didn't do the transfer case!?) Anyways the bands inside were toast and a few other parts were replaced but apparently it's tuff as nails now. Only problem, they painted it black. DAM. And the aluminum colour I have is too shiny. I really like the cast iron colour and will most likely paint it that once I get the transfer case back and bolt them together.
Going over on good Friday to put a dent into the workload. Pictures to follow then
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A bit more wire wheeling has been done on the floor, I think we have a method of attack. I've been welding sheetmetal and razor bades together practicing my welding. Hope it goes well. Oh who am I kidding, it will turn out fine. I'll show pictures when it's done.
Attachments
DaveP's Ghost
Well-known member
https://syty.net/community/attachments/20210313_134951-jpg.1864353/
The brake shoes are installed incorrectly, at least on the passenger side.. The long-lining shoes go on the rear, and the short-lining shoes go on the front. Same for both sides.
The brake shoes are installed incorrectly, at least on the passenger side.. The long-lining shoes go on the rear, and the short-lining shoes go on the front. Same for both sides.
Goodgollyjosh
Active member
Good catch Dave!
Dave P Ghost- Definitely, you were right. I had a 50% chance to get right, both sides were backwards! Anyways, flipped them around and put back together. Didn't go as bad this time around as I've had a bit of practice with these drums.
Mounted the new rotors and calipers. I also purchased stainless steel braided flex hoses but the wrong kit was sent. The front flex hoses are about 6-7 inches too short. I do remember on my old 2wd that the front flex hoses were in a differnt spot.
Mounted the new rotors and calipers. I also purchased stainless steel braided flex hoses but the wrong kit was sent. The front flex hoses are about 6-7 inches too short. I do remember on my old 2wd that the front flex hoses were in a differnt spot.
