Gilbert driveshaft

bigtime

bigtime

Sy-Ty Builder
Ok I need a new one as i destroyed mine. I have been searching and noticed that when you buy a gilbert one you need to remove the pinion flange. Does it come with a new flange? Do you need to buy a different one? No where can i find out why. Does anyone have a picture of what i would be buying from them.
Thanks
 
JSM

JSM

Active member
I don't have a picture handy, but it is easy mod. Just requires a large nut to be removed.

I happen to have a brand new gilbert in the box if you need one. Would have to get new price though, as it is new.

With my combination I will need to get a custom one made up anyways.
 
bigtime

bigtime

Sy-Ty Builder
JS Manufacturing said:
I don't have a picture handy, but it is easy mod. Just requires a large nut to be removed.

I happen to have a brand new gilbert in the box if you need one. Would have to get new price though, as it is new.

With my combination I will need to get a custom one made up anyways.
Click to expand...

But what is the mod??? I think i can handle anything but really need to know what to do. I am trying to figure out if it is just easier to buy his or get my guy to make me one.
 
JSM

JSM

Active member
Remove center nut from driveline flange on front diff.

Remove flange

Put on new flange

tighten nut to same spot it was before

Install driveline

Slightly bend shifter bracket (no welding needed)

Drive truck, never break one again.

Gilbert is so proven and simple why try to have one done local by a guy who is guessing what it needs, and most likely not save a penny?
 
bigtime

bigtime

Sy-Ty Builder
JS Manufacturing said:
Remove center nut from driveline flange on front diff.

Remove flange

Put on new flange

tighten nut to same spot it was before

Install driveline

Slightly bend shifter bracket (no welding needed)

Drive truck, never break one again.

Gilbert is so proven and simple why try to have one done local by a guy who is guessing what it needs, and most likely not save a penny?
Click to expand...

I still don't know if the flange comes with the shaft...
 
JSM

JSM

Active member
Yes

I have one in a box, never even removed flange and all for $350 shipped to your door. Could ship tomorrow if you need.
 
Loeryder

Loeryder

New member
gilbert3.sized.jpg


Close up of the flange.

Mark the pinion nut orientation before you loosen it, also count the # of threads showing past the nut.
Retorquing it does not always get it to the SAME point it was at before removal.
By marking the nut you can put it back EXACTLY where it came off from.
That way your pinion preload should not be effected.

FYI, while you have the front flange off do not rotate the front axles until you have the new flange and pinion nut reinstalled.

My trans shifter "lever" needed to be cut and weleded to clear the shaft.
Then my gear indicator on the floor console was off, so we cut and welded the cable bracket also to correct the lineup.
Mines ALOT closer to the trans body now than it was to the shaft before.
 
bigtime

bigtime

Sy-Ty Builder
I'm ok with the pinion preload as I do differentials. As a matter of fact i just rebuilt this one last week! I just want to see what I was buying. I could definatly had it built cheaper, If it was for a customer i would have but since its for me........I'm just to lazy to measure it up.
For $340.00 these are balanced right?
How come nobody has a difinative right up about these? When I searched all i found was people saying to buy them but no reason why except they were fatter?
 
SY2932

SY2932

Administrator
FYI, you will need at 32MM socket to remove the stock adapter. I tried to use my 1/2" breaker bar and only ended up trying to "drive" my truck off the ramps that I had it on at the time. Impact works lots better... Just as Jas mentioned, you want to mark the orientation of the pinion nut before you remove it.

IMHO, there isn't a better propshaft made by anyone out there PERIOD... The fact that there has not been ONE failure or vibration issue EVER is self evident. And it's not like Bruce Gilbert just started making these heavy duty props recently. They have been on MANY trucks for several years with NO problems whatsoever. I know a few ten second trucks are running them, if there was any shoddy material/workmanship, one these individuals would have broken one by now.

One less joint to worry about, ZERK fittings so that you can grease it on the truck and being lighter than stock to boot made it an easy decision when I bought mine back in '01. I have never heard anyone complain about what they had to pay for it after seeing it in person.
 
TurboManiacal

TurboManiacal

Donating Member
I'm hearing rumors of leakage from these style propshafts that require the front flange taken off.

In fact on 3 out 3 trucks as it was told to me this weekend. It was told to me that the end of the propshaft is too narrow for the seal.

I cannot confirm yet that these were exactly Gilbert Propshafts...but I'm trying to think of who else would make one?

Any thoughts?
 
Ian Turgeon

Ian Turgeon

Cascading Inspiration
Mine was leaking a little before, but it definately is leaking more now. I cant tell you if its due to the gilbert shaft or not, I really dont know how the seal itself works, but I am getting a little oil buildup in the path behind the front diff.
 
bigtime

bigtime

Sy-Ty Builder
Mine leaks at the front flange. I didn't fell like messing with it as it is so small but annoying none the less. It would be a simple measurement to see if the new flange is smaller.
 
Loeryder

Loeryder

New member
I put a new pinion seal in mine when I did the gilbert and no leaky.

Guess its one of those foresights.
As much work as it is getting it on and off you'd think anyone taking that flange off would get a new pinion seal at the same time.
 
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