DanenGraham
Big in the rear
What are the efects of doing this and do i only use it at the track to prevent damage to my trans.
Going to wire my TC lockup to night, just one Q?
- Thread starter DanenGraham
- Start date
TechWeasel
New member
Why would it be hard on the TC? I really don't have a firm grasp on the innards of the lockup mechanism, but I'd think that having the direct mechanical connection would effectively take the converter out of the equation. I'd guess that there'd be less heat buildup too, since there's no slippage in the converter when it's locked.
Now, I can see where it would be hard on the rest of the transmission, since there's no cushion on up and downshifts....
Somebody who really understands this should pipe up now... :scrambleup:
Now, I can see where it would be hard on the rest of the transmission, since there's no cushion on up and downshifts....
Somebody who really understands this should pipe up now... :scrambleup:
jwaller
Evil Genius/SyTy Guru
once its locked up then no it's not hard on itBC it's locked. but it's the act of lockin a stall converter at the point at which it's furthest away from being locked. or the point at whcih the converter is fully stalled. the TC clutch is sort of small and it really takes a beating when you try and lock it at the 1-2 shift. it's much easier once the mo is going and the stall speed is closer to the vehichle speed.
Using the stock converter lockup clutch is very hard on the clutch itself. Our trucks have an enormous amount of torque, locking up a converter with one of them is very hard on it. Now that there are nearly no trucks with a fresh stock tranny (I'm saying most are original, mid to high mile trannies) it's even scarier to lock it up at WOT, under boost.
Also, if you do lock it up under WOT, unlock it before you decelerate after you cross the line. Engine braking from 100 mph using the TCC isn't good for it either. Pop it in OD after the run, so the truck will coast down, rather than engine brake in 3rd.
Also, if you do lock it up under WOT, unlock it before you decelerate after you cross the line. Engine braking from 100 mph using the TCC isn't good for it either. Pop it in OD after the run, so the truck will coast down, rather than engine brake in 3rd.
Might want to add a hobbs switch
Might want to add a hobbs switch
A couple of years ago, BG had suggested to me to install a hobbs switch (connected to vacuum/boost) in line with the TCC lockup switch. This way, the lockup switch would only be effective when you were in boost (which is where you want it), and more importantly, it would automatically unlock the TCC at the end of the run (assuming you let off the gas, like most people do
).
I tee'd into the hose for my aftermarket boost gauge, and mounted the hobbs switch up under the dash. Nice, tidy, hidden installation.
Might want to add a hobbs switch
A couple of years ago, BG had suggested to me to install a hobbs switch (connected to vacuum/boost) in line with the TCC lockup switch. This way, the lockup switch would only be effective when you were in boost (which is where you want it), and more importantly, it would automatically unlock the TCC at the end of the run (assuming you let off the gas, like most people do
).I tee'd into the hose for my aftermarket boost gauge, and mounted the hobbs switch up under the dash. Nice, tidy, hidden installation.
I've even considered another trick setup, if you are so inclined.
You can use a time delay relay, set off the brake switch, so that the converter locks at X seconds into a run. I have one of these I'm going to use to delay my 2nd electric fan coming on.
It might be unnecessarily complex, but it's something else you might be able to use to help dial in your ET's.
You can use a time delay relay, set off the brake switch, so that the converter locks at X seconds into a run. I have one of these I'm going to use to delay my 2nd electric fan coming on.
It might be unnecessarily complex, but it's something else you might be able to use to help dial in your ET's.