..........started back doing a little tuning. Truck (92') now is equipped with a wide-band. Symptoms: while out doing runs and tuning; the water temperature eventually climbs to about 200+ degrees. I think this causes the truck to throw a code 13 frequently. The code seemingly doesn't show up until the high temperature. In addition; it is hard for me to tune 14.7 afr while idling. Changing the values in the F28 table either makes too lean or too rich. On some days I have been able to tune up to 18 lbs. of boost without knock; but then the next day without changing anything I get knock. Any suggestions would be appreciated.......
HELP..............again!
- Thread starter Ellis
- Start date
dgoodhue
BuSTeD 4.3
Re: HELP..............again!
It concerns me your making changes in the f28 table and then are doing 18 psi runs. Settle on f28 value and leave it alone. Make changes to the f29x table to adjust your idle and fine tune the rest of your part throttle boost before you do any wot tuning.
If your coolant temps are reaching 200+, you really should resolve that cooling issue first. What you using for a fans, did you remove the shroud?
It concerns me your making changes in the f28 table and then are doing 18 psi runs. Settle on f28 value and leave it alone. Make changes to the f29x table to adjust your idle and fine tune the rest of your part throttle boost before you do any wot tuning.
If your coolant temps are reaching 200+, you really should resolve that cooling issue first. What you using for a fans, did you remove the shroud?
Re: HELP..............again!
...the 18 psi runs occurred just prior to the developing problems. I actually tried leveling out the idle and afr (14 - 14.7) using both tables. The problem is after making a change, it either became too rich (11.9 - 12.6) or too lean (15.0 + - until it cuts off). As far as the high water temperature, everything is still stock. Any ideas on the code 13?.............
...the 18 psi runs occurred just prior to the developing problems. I actually tried leveling out the idle and afr (14 - 14.7) using both tables. The problem is after making a change, it either became too rich (11.9 - 12.6) or too lean (15.0 + - until it cuts off). As far as the high water temperature, everything is still stock. Any ideas on the code 13?.............
Last edited:
The Devils Own Chariot
Active member
Re: HELP..............again!
Failing water pump
Bad thermostat
Radiator needs flushed
Radiator is air locked
My truck does not idle well at 14.7 It likes it rich, around 13.5 ish. If its happy there then who cares.
High temp can cause the tune to change. You might be right on the edge with 18psi and knocking.
High engine temp can heat soak your air to water intercooler and then it becomes less effective. I had that with my stock intercooler.
Look at intake temps when you get KR and when you dont. That might help you see the issue to compare the two.
Your knock sensor can also hear your motor foul out if you have a bad tune. Also bad plugs can cause a miss and the knock sensor can hear that. Just my experience.
Your tune could be based off a 160 stat and 200 deg temp is over the control limit of a certain flag/switches or constant/scalar setting. I cant really tell you witch one. You are just going to have to look through them. See if any of them make sense.
Where did you get your starter bin? Maybe use another bin and see what happens. False KR is always possible.
Post up a log and have everyone take a look. I gave you a lot of things to track down. Have fun and report back.
Failing water pump
Bad thermostat
Radiator needs flushed
Radiator is air locked
My truck does not idle well at 14.7 It likes it rich, around 13.5 ish. If its happy there then who cares.
High temp can cause the tune to change. You might be right on the edge with 18psi and knocking.
High engine temp can heat soak your air to water intercooler and then it becomes less effective. I had that with my stock intercooler.
Look at intake temps when you get KR and when you dont. That might help you see the issue to compare the two.
Your knock sensor can also hear your motor foul out if you have a bad tune. Also bad plugs can cause a miss and the knock sensor can hear that. Just my experience.
Your tune could be based off a 160 stat and 200 deg temp is over the control limit of a certain flag/switches or constant/scalar setting. I cant really tell you witch one. You are just going to have to look through them. See if any of them make sense.
Where did you get your starter bin? Maybe use another bin and see what happens. False KR is always possible.
Post up a log and have everyone take a look. I gave you a lot of things to track down. Have fun and report back.
The Devils Own Chariot
Active member
Re: HELP..............again!
:rotf:
Buy a Z4 and you will have to face tytilidie boost launches at the stop light.
:rotf:
Buy a Z4 and you will have to face tytilidie boost launches at the stop light.
PJs97Talon
Is in over my head......
Re: HELP..............again!
One thing to remember- the thermostat only controls the minimum temp of the engine. Once it gets to that temprature- it opens up and really no longer does much at all assuming it stays open. You have to have enough cooling capacity to control the maximum temprature including everything functioning correctly.
One thing to remember- the thermostat only controls the minimum temp of the engine. Once it gets to that temprature- it opens up and really no longer does much at all assuming it stays open. You have to have enough cooling capacity to control the maximum temprature including everything functioning correctly.
Re: HELP..............again!
.....indeed you have given me a lot of things to track down and they all make sense. I guess I know what I'll be doing the this (scorching) weekend. My starter bin came from a guy they call "TYTILIDIE"....lol....in the next post he suggests (jokingly I'm sure) I should get a BMW. However; I think I'm going to start with cooling system. Radiator flush, water pump, thermostat and clutch fan. That should cover the gambit. I'm also thinking my year and half old 255l fuel pump might be on the fritz. Lost pressure there for a little while when the coolant temperature (ultimately.....and engine) rose above 200 degrees. These things get you hooked and then you don't know when to let them go. Thanks guys............
.....indeed you have given me a lot of things to track down and they all make sense. I guess I know what I'll be doing the this (scorching) weekend. My starter bin came from a guy they call "TYTILIDIE"....lol....in the next post he suggests (jokingly I'm sure) I should get a BMW. However; I think I'm going to start with cooling system. Radiator flush, water pump, thermostat and clutch fan. That should cover the gambit. I'm also thinking my year and half old 255l fuel pump might be on the fritz. Lost pressure there for a little while when the coolant temperature (ultimately.....and engine) rose above 200 degrees. These things get you hooked and then you don't know when to let them go. Thanks guys............