rear diff questions

Slyclone

Slyclone

Well-known member
Doing some routine matinence today on truck since I been racking up the miles.

I bought a couple of tubes of gear oil to put in the front and rear diff. I was able to jack the pass side and allow enough room for me to evac/dispence fluid. Remove plug, check level ( low) and add. I checked level with a bent piece of wire. It was pretty strait forward.

I figured it would be as easy to do the rear as it was front. So here I am.. Looking for a rubber fill plug or something g threaded to remove... Not seeing anything. So what's the work that is needed to be done here? Require a new gasket/removal of complete cover? Also how would you fill a stock rear of there is no plug/bung? Maybe I missed it. I'll crawl back under and look again. Service supplement says to check front/rear diff every 15,000 miles. I'm wondering if either have ever been checked.
 
B

blue83z

Donating Member
Re: rear diff questions

I believe, passenger side, towards the top, there is a 3/8" square drive plug.
 
"Nickel"

"Nickel"

S-Series Syco
Re: rear diff questions



^ That is the fill plug, to drain the oil you must remove the rear cover. Then use some RVT type stuff to reseal the cover. Fill till the oil starts to come out of the fill plug. Level should be at the threads of the plug.
 
Slyclone

Slyclone

Well-known member
Re: rear diff questions

Thanks for the pic. Just crawled up under again.. I'm looking in the wrong area. Was looking on the cover for a fill. I'll get back out there and see what I can come up with.
 
Don W.

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: rear diff questions

Slyclone said:
Remove plug, check level ( low) and add. I checked level with a bent piece of wire.
Click to expand...

Just a reminder that "full" is when oil comes out, or is at least level with, the hole.

And Nickel, where in the heck did you get that picture? Haven't seen a torque-tube drive line in many years...
 
Slyclone

Slyclone

Well-known member
Re: rear diff questions

Don thanks for the additional tip. What I did just now was jack and remove tire, and relowered the truck to about level.

I probably need a torque tube my self. Hit it once with a ratchet and nothing. Just heated the plug up and didn't budge. Got my impact here but its 1/2 and can't find the little 1/2 to 3/8 step down.
 
"Nickel"

"Nickel"

S-Series Syco
Re: rear diff questions

I would clean around the plug real good then spray it with your choice of spray lube. Wait a bit. Stick a 3/8 extention in the plug an smack it (not too hard) a few times to brake the rust loose. Then try the ratchet. If you do use the impact be gentle. If that dont do it heat around the plug. Not the plug itself.
 
"Nickel"

"Nickel"

S-Series Syco
Re: rear diff questions

Don W. said:
Just a reminder that "full" is when oil comes out, or is at least level with, the hole.

And Nickel, where in the heck did you get that picture? Haven't seen a torque-tube drive line in many years...
Click to expand...

And you aren't seeing one now...:D
Its the rear end in my 93 s-10 4x4.
I just snapped a quick pic of it. I'm in the process of stripping it to the frame for a rebuild.
 
"Nickel"

"Nickel"

S-Series Syco
Re: rear diff questions

Don, I assure you both pics are of the same diff, same angle, on the same s-10. I took both pics today with my cell phone.
 
Don W.

Don W.

Stab it and steer it
Re: rear diff questions

I just realized what I did. I took the axle tube to be a torque tube. Little embarrassed but what the heck. At least you're not having to work on an old Chev rear end they were terrible. :rotf:
 
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