Ticking started after Overboost, Need Help - Video Link

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Nullkalt

New member
The problem started when I was cruising around 15mph and decided to go WOT. The truck had been running around 45 min and it was about 35 degrees out. It took off hard then it cut out and backfired real loud. Then started to hear a ticking. I was only a mile from home so I didn't have to drive far in this condition. Paperclipped it and got Overboost code.

I am thinking that when it hit overboost and when fuel cutout it made it run too lean, and therefore bending a rod.

Talked with a friend who said it is going to be a bent rod specially if ticking goes away just for a split sec when ya first hit the gas by moving the throttle linkage. He said it probably would be a lifter or a push rod if it doesn't go away. Video 2 shows that there is no pause when moving throttle. Don't know how to diagnose by ear so I'm hoping others can.

Please go HERE to view the videos. Thanks
 
SyTyJedi

SyTyJedi

Jedi Council
Man that is loud.

I think it's a valvetrain related problem since I can hear the ticking really speed up when you increase the revs.





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Tyler
10.31@132 - pencil written timeslip
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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: SyTyJedi on 2002-03-16 16:00 ]</font>
 
V6 Kompressor

V6 Kompressor

New member
I would place my bet on a backed off rocker arm nut, this would cause it to backfire, a slightly pulled rocker arm stud would cause this also, but you shouldn't have that problem with stock cam, springs ect. I have seen a push rod pushed through the rocker arm also, but it was on an engine with twice as many miles... This shouldn't be a costly fix...
 
N

Nullkalt

New member
Contacted the original owner and he said that he had the push rods, rockers & lifters replaced at one time. I will tear it down and see what's goin on.

Don't think i'll find a PackRat but hopefully it's nothing too costly.
 
jwaller

jwaller

Evil Genius/SyTy Guru
if a lifter died it will chunk the pushrod and send it into the valley of death. hence a dead skip and no noise. I think its a rod...sorry dude although it could be a slightly bent pushrod cause it doesnt sound that deep in tone. try pulling the valve covers and that will tell you all you need to know.

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TE-60, ATR headers, Vortecs, TCS converter, 50# chip, NOS Profogger, Built by J&G Racing

<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: jwaller on 2002-03-17 22:26 ]</font>
 
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Nullkalt

New member
On 2002-03-16 20:09, Dragrace55 wrote:
I would place my bet on a backed off rocker arm nut, this would cause it to backfire, a slightly pulled rocker arm stud would cause this also, but you shouldn't have that problem with stock cam, springs ect. I have seen a push rod pushed through the rocker arm also, but it was on an engine with twice as many miles... This shouldn't be a costly fix...
Click to expand...

Got a chance to pull the valve cover off. The rocker on #6 piston was way loose, then I see that the rocker arm stud is pulled out about 3 threads.

studdifference.jpg


So what next? I don't think pulling it out, green locktite and tapping it back in is the way. Pulling it out and thread kit? Not sure what to do...... ideas appreciated. Thanks.

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Erik
93 Ty #0137

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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Nullkalt on 2002-03-23 15:56 ]</font>
 
jwaller

jwaller

Evil Genius/SyTy Guru
is the stud pulled out or what some threads on the stud been stripped? if the threads have been stripped you could try a differnt length pushrod. so that the nut will be in a different place on the stud. if the stud has pulled out. I think you would need to pull the head and swap to screw in studs.
 
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Nullkalt

New member
All the threads are fine on the stud. If you look you can see that the stud on the left is out further than the other.
I have not tried to pull the stud all the way out yet, it definately is not loose, not sure how i would accomplish that one, put the nut on and pry it?
Could use this as a way to justify L35s but interested if there is another way.
 
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bigjohn

New member
as john said the best thing would be to pull the heads. now there are two other ways to go but its not the right way. you can put the rocker nut on so it is flush with the stud. then hammer it back into place. this is only a band-aid. 2nd is to use a stud puller and remove the stud then tap the hole and put a replacement screw in stud in it. if done correctly this will hold up just fine.
 
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Sy769

Donating Member
Yeah I agree
If you can tap it, it will be fine and save a lot of work. However you need keep all the shavings from getting in the motor.
I think you can take thin plastic (something like a drop cloth) and cut a hole large enough to go over the stud boss. Maybe use a rubber band to keep it in place and keep all the metal shavings where you want them. Make sure the plastic covers a large enough area. Use one of the screw in studs that doesn't have the hex for guidplates.

It would suck to have to pull the head just for that. JWaller will pull a head for entertainment though. :grin: (in the parking lot no less!)
 
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Nullkalt

New member
Ok looks like tapping it is. Metal shavings are a concern, will take extra caution.

I have never done this kind of work before so should be interesting. Need to find out what I will need to complete the job. Not understanding the hex guideplate difference but will make sure not to have it.

Now how do I get the rocker stud out? Not familiar with a stud puller, can I expect to find one at Autozone, Murray's etc.
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Erik
93 Ty #0137

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<font size=-1>[ This Message was edited by: Nullkalt on 2002-03-24 00:42 ]</font>
 
S

SY1373

New member
One other possible fix? While I don't know if you have enough clearance, on small block Vortec heads I have pinned the stud in similar situations. Try to get the stud back in place then cross drill a small hole and pin in place with a roll pin, tempered carter, etc.
 
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bigjohn

New member
pinning is a good way to go but is a bitch on the truck. also you need to make sure the stud boss is not cracked. i would pull the stud but only if there is enough room to get a stud puller in there. you need to find a machine shop that has a stud puller. if you know the guys thats even better as they might let you borrow it. there are several different types so if you try and buy one do your homework first. good luck.
 
V6 Kompressor

V6 Kompressor

New member
That stud has definately pulled, the others may not be far behind. The fix would be how much money you have to invest... Most economical, would be pull all the studs, drill and tap the stud holes to 7/16" nc and install the threaded rocker arm studs that have no hex nut made onto them... But because of the risk of metal shavings getting into the oil/water system, I wouldn't attempt it with the heads on the engine. You can get a set of late 93/ 94 model L-35 heads that already have screw in studs, or you can go with a set of 96 uo vortecs and have John waller do you an intake to match... It really depends on how much money you have to spend, and the bang for the buck you want... Low dollar... pull heads, send to a machine shop for drilling, tapping, or install mr. gasket stud pinning kit, valve job ect... No. HP increase (but you get reliability) to Vortec's, matching intake, 50+ hp increase... $$$.
 
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