Trans Removal

[SY2932]

Re: Trans Removal

Holy hell! How high off the ground is it?

-P

High enough that I could get the transmission out from UNDER the truck after it was divorced from the transfer case and motor. Even though the transmission is on my transmission jack in the pic, I didn't roll it out from under the truck. I slid it out from under the truck with the transmission pan resting on a piece of plywood. And even then I had to lift the tail end up to tip the top of the bellhousing down enough to get it out from under the truck.

 

[Slyclone]

Re: Trans Removal

So I put everything back together. The thing I jumped on was removing the crossmember thinking it all came out as 1 unit. I kept looking at this and had a feeling it would not clear due to the rear torsion bar/crossmember back further. The T case snout looked like it would never clear. Found that out.

Today I worked on the truck for about 2 hours just putting things back to what they were. I had to work at another property so going full throttle was not in the plan, I had a small window to re-assemble thing to where I had hit it hard tomorrow morning.

Drive shaft poped right out. I got 2 of the t-case adapter bolts out will explore the driver side and the other hard to reach ones. Assuming the T case brace will come out and open things up a bit. The 7/16 12 pt wrenches worked great on removal of rear prop shaft hardware- with some added heat. They sure were in there good.

Hopefully spring time I will have a lift or sooner. New place has provisions for one. I have a real nice trans jack which is ancient. I had to have a extra hand lifting the thing into my pickup bed. Must weight a ton

Tomorrow I will attack the rest of the T case and drop that, And out wit the trans pretty simple. Just taking it in steps. with the right help and advice im getting there..Thanks everyone

 

[SY2932]

Re: Trans Removal

Be careful when you remove the second to last bolt from the transfercase. Especially if the last bolt that you leave in there will allow it to "swing" from it. As mentioned in the "how to" write up, it is HEAVY. Seventy pounds to be exact:

It should be noted that you will need a new transfercase to transmission gasket. Part number is 1564-2511.

This gasket has an orientation and can only go on one way. So, make sure ALL the holes line up before you bolt it back up down the road.

 

[Slyclone]

Re: Trans Removal

Got trans out yesterday.

Here are some pics. Look at the pass. side trans how its so oil soaked. After dropping trans I spend maby 5 minutes under truck and look around trying to identify origin of oil. My dad swooped by and actually gave me some imput. He knows how bitter I am about this oil leak. Being that I had paied some where $3500-4000+- for engine build to have a oil leak which set me back. Honestly I was never able to take truck to a dyno shop because they all bitch about little drips. Again I want to emphasize I approached builder when I discovered and he was a real smart guy about it telling me it could be anything... So I dont need to have him working on anymore of my toys. I just used him at the time because I had a 440 block done and I was close to his shop. I just wont bother him no more Because I figured out he does not stand behind his work.



Pic is crumby but you can see the oil saturation..



Now I will be browsing for a rebuild kit. I dont think its time to jerk around here. I thought it would be a simple thing like a trans gov. Would be nice if it was. I was told by a few people it is what could be creating the no shift condition. After numerious failed attempts to drive truck and have it "over rev" or wind out to 3500 rpm was just BS. Turbo was screaming like it was in full boost. You know? whens the power start comming on strong? Last time I remember 2500-3000 RPM was like mid boost. 3500 RPM and not shifting just was not right. Only wating for a second gear shift and for a large detonation to go off. I drained the fluid out of pan and examined the magnet. ( it was cleaned maby 1500 miles ago) I havent driven truck in a year...Magnet was full again of wear. Looked like alum. shavings. Just seems like a rebuild is about to happen.

As far as the oil condition- comming from top, My dad says it could be my valve cover...???? You can see the place where the oil is the most. Pass. side...bellhousing. Back of engine is soaked with oil.

 

[randy merritt]

Re: Trans Removal

Good job getting the trans out. You saved yourself a lot of money. A leaking pass. side valve cover gasket would be the first place I would try to fix as far as your oil leak goes. The gasket could be on crooked and would cause a lot of oil leakage like you have.

 

[Slyclone]

Re: Trans Removal

Thanks BuD! Im on that webiste you provided me and I dont know what I am looking at!!

I used GM rubber gaskets is cork a better one to work with? I just remember ordering these bright orange GM rubber gaskets thinking it was the right way- Maby ones pinched?

I am looking for something to just rebuild the parts inside. no valve body or servo unless I am completely out of my gourd and keep thinking that they should not go in and mess around with all that.(I read stuff about trans not shifting the same Weaker softer shifts.)

 

[randy merritt]

Re: Trans Removal

I may be best to call the guy that sells those parts. His name is Dana, and he is a very nice guy. Tell him what you want to be able to do with the trans, and maybe he can give you and idea of what rebuild kit would be best for you. He actually will call you back or respond to emails, although it may take a little while. He has a very good reputation on other forums also. He is familiar with sy/ty transmissions.

I have the rubber valve cover gaskets, and it can be very easy to install the valve covers with the gasket not lined up properly.

I would stick with the rubber gaskets on the valve covers.

 

[Darin]

Re: Trans Removal

Turbo oil return line is a bad known to leak point, as are the oil filter lines (although they are on the other side of the engine).

 

[atkonkler]

Re: Trans Removal

I've worked at an r&r trans shop ... If you have all the proper tools jacks stAnds or hoist it makes all the difference in the world, all I can say is swivel impact sockets and 36-42 inch impact extensions and a trans jack and that is as easy as pie. I bet ya on jack stands with impacts and air tools I could do one in an 1hr-2hrs, I was the master on 46re's in Chrysler products and 4l60 and 80's in gm's. I learned from the best though dude knew all the tricks of every car just about.

. As stated above in the first part of the thread... I would do the motor mounts to since the trans is out...might not be a bad idea...IMO.

 

[Slyclone]

Re: Trans Removal

http://www.700r4l60e.com/store/home.php?cat=14

I am on this page looking at items. Can any one Provide some other kits or options. want to look over other kits and possibly call some one soon to get the ball rolling.

I may need to decide on a kit, and call about it and relay info on my build?

Or, whos running what. Whats good. I am told to just go 80E but I have no clue.

 

[MikeRenz]

Re: Trans Removal

. As stated above in the first part of the thread... I would do the motor mounts to since the trans is out...might not be a bad idea...IMO.

having the trans out does not make any difference on changing the motor mounts. If you hated removing the trans, then you're really going to hate changing motor mounts while the motor is still in.

 

[Slyclone]

Re: Trans Removal

Thanks for the heads up either way I already replaced them motor mounts. I had found a stock one in the pile of parts with truck and it was sheared pretty good.

Mounts look actually easy to replace with trans out. I got a good look at the one and its showing signs of heat stress.

I ended up snapping the other bolt in the adapter plate on trans. A year or so ago the bolt was loose and I went to tighten it and it snapped right off. Put heat to the other one and it too snapped so I have a BEAT adapter. Is it even worth drilling out? The hardware appears to be threaded all the way. ANd its most likely some grade 8 stuff and hard.

 

[Jimmy]

Re: Trans Removal

Mounts look actually easy to replace

That's funny.

 

[Michael]

Re: Trans Removal

I did mine before on jack stands, but as mentioned above it required sliding the trans off of the trans jack to get it out from under the truck. I hope my Harbor Freight trans jack survives another use, it spit some ball bearings out of its mechanism last time I used it!

 

[dgoodhue]

Re: Trans Removal

Even though I haven't tried mount replacement with the trans out, I have done it with the trans and engine installed, and I think it will make a difference, Mike. When lifting the engine to access the center lower mount to block bolt, it isn't possible to lift the engine far enough to gain access to this bolt because the trans case hits the tunnel before the engine is high enough.

With the trans out, the engine can be lifted a lot higher (watch for other interference. Particularly fan / fan shroud, fuel lines and exhaust downpipe to floor) because the trans case won't hit the body first.

I agree that it would be easier, but it still wouldn't be easy if replacing the frame pads.

 

[dgoodhue]

Re: Trans Removal

As far as the oil condition- comming from top, My dad says it could be my valve cover...???? You can see the place where the oil is the most. Pass. side...bellhousing. Back of engine is soaked with oil.

The valve covers are easy enough to screw up. The orange gasket easily slips out of place. I found using small binder clips to hold the gasket in place was a good way to mount the valve cover. Basically clip them in place, put the cover down on the head and them slip them out, just before tightening them.

If its not the valve covers it could be the bead of silicon that is supposed seal the back of the intake to the block.

 

[dgoodhue]

Re: Trans Removal

Frame pads don't wear out or require replacement when simply renewing factory style rubber mounts.

Factory-style rubber mounts , with the factory style heat shields properly positioned tend to last about 10 years in street use. Arguably a longer duration than many SyTy engines last in street use. In other words, the mounts last as long as the engines do.

I have observed that many peeps consider the "energy suspension" mounts to be an "improvement" over factory style black rubber mounts, install them, and find them "melted" or otherwise severely distorted only a brief period of time after installation. Some of these installations include the factory heat shields, some installations omit them. Either way the ES mounts often disappoint when it comes to durability.

The next "cure" is to install solid mounts that require replacing the frame pads. I personally completely miss the justification for putting oneself through the agony and frustration of replacing the mounts AND frame-pads while the engine, front diff and lower a-arms are installed in the frame. Access is severely limited, and this retrofit is incredibly tedious and difficult. I wonder why anyone does this modification to a street driven truck for "Improvement" in service life when stock mounts that can be replaced in an afternoon last 10 years or more?

So yes Dave, I agree that the difficulty of replacing the frame pads is not influenced by the transmission being installed or not. But why the F would anyone need to replace the frame pads anyway? Unless they're making power levels that can't be held by factory-style rubber mounts? Most street driven trucks are not in this power level.

Renewing factory-style rubber mounts with the transmission out should be easier than with the trans bolted to the engine. And the frame-pads can be left alone. Doesn't get any easier than that.

Yes, the frame pad would be for the aftermarket poly/solid engine mounts. I don't know what the life span of the factory rubber mounts are. I didn't get involved with SyTy's until 2001 but broken mounts were common issue at 8-10 years. It seemed like they broke when doing boost launches, but maybe it was racing combined with age. I broke the factory one after only a half dozen boost launches. I initially did poly mounts with heat shields; I would not do poly mounts again. One of my poly mounts showed signs of melting after 5000 miles when I replaced my motor. I replaced them with solid mounts.

Do you know if the GM motor mounts are still available? I had a friend break his new aftermarket rubber motor mounts after one trip to the track. It sucks doing motor mounts twice within a month. I would only use GM mounts if still available.

 

[Slyclone]

Re: Trans Removal

I was under the truck and looking at the mounts. I thought they looked like they were easy to get too. I must be forgetting something if everyone claims they are so hard. I did mine with engine out when it was rebuilt so It just dropped right in.

I had trans mount snap. Bolt was loose a year ago went to tighten and it snapped right off. Same thing happend 2 days ago. These bolts are threaded all the way through the adapter plate 4x4 (2 fastners)

Spoke to guy at the website and he told me it was like a $900 kit. Was not expecting that

Here are some pics Of whats been going on
Snapped hardware..

started to clean tunnel

One garage bay full of parts..
Verified its original to truck..

Truck bed is full of parts to put on.

 

[MikeRenz]

Re: Trans Removal

Even though I haven't tried mount replacement with the trans out, I have done it with the trans and engine installed, and I think it will make a difference, Mike. When lifting the engine to access the center lower mount to block bolt, it isn't possible to lift the engine far enough to gain access to this bolt because the trans case hits the tunnel before the engine is high enough.

With the trans out, the engine can be lifted a lot higher (watch for other interference. Particularly fan / fan shroud, fuel lines and exhaust downpipe to floor) because the trans case won't hit the body first.

I thought he was referring to replacing the frame pads, not just the block mounts. The mounts are "easy", when compared to the frame pads. The block mounts usually just require a ratcheting wrench and not jacking the motor up too much, unless you're trying to hit is with a socket I guess.

 

[dgoodhue]

Re: Trans Removal

Personally would just find another transadapter.