help needed
- Thread starter mikael
- Start date
cloneman315
Active member
Re: help needed
doubt its related but do your self a favor first.do all the tune up stuff plugs wires cap rotor fuel filter and put datamaster on it if u have it,also check timming etc then go from there.
doubt its related but do your self a favor first.do all the tune up stuff plugs wires cap rotor fuel filter and put datamaster on it if u have it,also check timming etc then go from there.
jjorgensen52
NHSTE - I'm the only one!
Re: help needed
welcome aboard. When you changed the t-stat, did you make sure to get all the air out of the system? I've heard of 4.3's doing weird stuff getting a vapor lock in the water pump.
+1 on what cloneman said about tuneup and datamaster. Best favor you can do yourself
welcome aboard. When you changed the t-stat, did you make sure to get all the air out of the system? I've heard of 4.3's doing weird stuff getting a vapor lock in the water pump.
+1 on what cloneman said about tuneup and datamaster. Best favor you can do yourself
cloneman315
Active member
Re: help needed
ign module is also comon problem heat cold related
ign module is also comon problem heat cold related
cloneman315
Active member
Re: help needed
if it is to cold it could not be going into closed loop
if it is to cold it could not be going into closed loop
Don W.
Stab it and steer it
Re: help needed
Getting the air out can be tricky but here's my method albeit long. Start with a cold system and top off at the radiator. Run the motor until you see flow usually the coolant disappears. Top-off and continue until you can't add any more coolant. Every time you add temp drops and t-stat closes so this process can take awhile. In the end top radiator hose will be hot of course, coolant will be flowing and you can't add anymore. Make sure header tank is above the add line and the hose is connected. Fully Install rad cap and allow motor to cool completely, usually overnight is the easiest. Next morning before starting remove radiator cap and top off as necessary, same with header tank if below the add line. Reinstall cap and you're good to go.
Getting the air out can be tricky but here's my method albeit long. Start with a cold system and top off at the radiator. Run the motor until you see flow usually the coolant disappears. Top-off and continue until you can't add any more coolant. Every time you add temp drops and t-stat closes so this process can take awhile. In the end top radiator hose will be hot of course, coolant will be flowing and you can't add anymore. Make sure header tank is above the add line and the hose is connected. Fully Install rad cap and allow motor to cool completely, usually overnight is the easiest. Next morning before starting remove radiator cap and top off as necessary, same with header tank if below the add line. Reinstall cap and you're good to go.
QUICK STORM
B.A.M.F. BMW Tech
Re: help needed
check vacuum lines
check vacuum lines
vinnieTy
TY # 1889
Re: help needed
The thermostat opens and closes and when it is closed it is called a closed loop meaning that it is holding the water/coolant in the motor to get hot once it reaches its temperture what ever the thermostat is rated at it it will open and allow the coolant to flow so it gets rid of the hot coolant and replaces it with the cooler coolant from the radiator.
I hope that explains somthing :tup:
mikael said:
The thermostat opens and closes and when it is closed it is called a closed loop meaning that it is holding the water/coolant in the motor to get hot once it reaches its temperture what ever the thermostat is rated at it it will open and allow the coolant to flow so it gets rid of the hot coolant and replaces it with the cooler coolant from the radiator.
I hope that explains somthing :tup:
jjorgensen52
NHSTE - I'm the only one!
Re: help needed
also, you ought to test the old t-stat, just put it in some boiling water and see if it opens
if I remember correctly, the temperature sensor for the gauge is on the driver's side cylinder head, so theoretically the t-stat shouldn't effect that... I'd try changing out the Coolant temp sensor on the manifold and see where that gets you.mikael said:
also, you ought to test the old t-stat, just put it in some boiling water and see if it opens
jjorgensen52
NHSTE - I'm the only one!
Re: help needed
that's the one I was talking about... it controls fueling via an open or closed circuit. so, when the truck is cold it's got one fuel setting, once it warms up it has a different one. I think the problem comes if the sensor is in the cold circuit when the truck is warm, the fuel levels don't respond properly and cause stuttering. I suspect this was not a problem with the old t. stat because the truck never got properly warmed up ... that may even be why the sensor isn't working anymore. So, when it does warm up fueling is off. That part costs about 10 bucks, I'd replace it and see where that gets youmikael said: