Oil pan removal
- Thread starter stoele
- Start date
T-Bone
Active member
Re: Oil pan removal
That's a pretty technical question and though I am not completely sure, I think if you turn the bolts at 1/4 turn v/s full turn, it will take 4 times as long to remove
.
That's a pretty technical question and though I am not completely sure, I think if you turn the bolts at 1/4 turn v/s full turn, it will take 4 times as long to remove
.![Quickstop [UK]](/forums/data/avatars/m/5/5165.jpg?1570199786){kind=avatar}
Quickstop [UK]
Combating adversyty.
Re: Oil pan removal
2 ways to do it.
Remove the engine to access the pan.
Remove the diff to access the pan.
Rough estimate - 3-4 hours to remove the engine, 1 hour with the diff. The diff is less involved and if you search there are write-ups to make it easier on you.
Oil pan removal
diff removal and replacement
2 ways to do it.
Remove the engine to access the pan.
Remove the diff to access the pan.
Rough estimate - 3-4 hours to remove the engine, 1 hour with the diff. The diff is less involved and if you search there are write-ups to make it easier on you.
Oil pan removal
diff removal and replacement
Last edited:
DaveP
Active member
Re: Oil pan removal
You do NOT have to remove the front diff to remove the oil pan.
You DO have to:
Pan R&R using the above method, no hoist, with no rusty, frozen or broken bolts or other distractions, shouldn't take more than 4-5 hours.
You do NOT have to remove the front diff to remove the oil pan.
You DO have to:
- Remove the motor mount through bolts, and raise the engine until the trans contacts the top of the tunnel.
- Disconnect the idler arm and Pittman arm from the steering cross-shaft and push it forward.
- Remove the 4 front diff mounting bolts. Disconnect prop shaft at diff flange. Push it fully forward.
Pan R&R using the above method, no hoist, with no rusty, frozen or broken bolts or other distractions, shouldn't take more than 4-5 hours.
Don W.
Stab it and steer it
Re: Oil pan removal
No doubt it can be done this way. But with all due respect, then what? If you're doing a bearing change that dif is gonna be in the way and trying your patience the whole time. I vote for dif removal and much easier access.
Still waiting on his reason...
No doubt it can be done this way. But with all due respect, then what? If you're doing a bearing change that dif is gonna be in the way and trying your patience the whole time. I vote for dif removal and much easier access.
Still waiting on his reason...
DaveP
Active member
Re: Oil pan removal
I had completely overhauled the L35 for my DD. I f ucked up and installed the pressure-bypass spring backwards in the oil pump which results in sky-high oil pressure. I blew oil all over the shop and my neighbor, who was standing there watching while I was priming the oil system when the high pressure blew the oil filter gasket out. :rotf: In my case, all I needed to do was R&R the oil pump. So I did it in the truck, using the procedure above. took about 4 hours. Everything was nice and clean and fresh, however.
I needed to inspect the main bearings in my red/gry. I was expecting that I was going to have to turn the crank too. So I removed the engine and flipped it upside-down, pushed all the rods/pistons down in the bores, and pulled the crank. I didn't remove the distributor, wires, accessories (except the water pump), or even the plugs.The engine was only a few thousand miles old and didn't need extensive repairs. Just a crank/bearings because of a bad overboost that took them out.
As you said. Pan R&R procedure depends a LOT on what you expect needs to be done, and how you're going to proceed after you have the pan off.
Regards,
DaveP
I had completely overhauled the L35 for my DD. I f ucked up and installed the pressure-bypass spring backwards in the oil pump which results in sky-high oil pressure. I blew oil all over the shop and my neighbor, who was standing there watching while I was priming the oil system when the high pressure blew the oil filter gasket out. :rotf: In my case, all I needed to do was R&R the oil pump. So I did it in the truck, using the procedure above. took about 4 hours. Everything was nice and clean and fresh, however.
I needed to inspect the main bearings in my red/gry. I was expecting that I was going to have to turn the crank too. So I removed the engine and flipped it upside-down, pushed all the rods/pistons down in the bores, and pulled the crank. I didn't remove the distributor, wires, accessories (except the water pump), or even the plugs.The engine was only a few thousand miles old and didn't need extensive repairs. Just a crank/bearings because of a bad overboost that took them out.
As you said. Pan R&R procedure depends a LOT on what you expect needs to be done, and how you're going to proceed after you have the pan off.
Regards,
DaveP
Don W.
Stab it and steer it
Re: Oil pan removal
Then leave the dif in I guess. Let me give you a hint though. (You may already know this.) The retainer thingies that come with the gasket don't work so get some small thread and tie the gasket to the pan in numerous places especially the corners. This should make a reliable install a bit easier. Just leave them in place when you tighten the pan down.
Good luck.
Then leave the dif in I guess. Let me give you a hint though. (You may already know this.) The retainer thingies that come with the gasket don't work so get some small thread and tie the gasket to the pan in numerous places especially the corners. This should make a reliable install a bit easier. Just leave them in place when you tighten the pan down.
Good luck.
DaveP
Active member
Re: Oil pan removal
I highly recommend that you check the center main bearings while the pan is off. Checking Costs Nothing....
I highly recommend that you check the center main bearings while the pan is off. Checking Costs Nothing....
dgoodhue
BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Oil pan removal
I tried to send DaveP a pm on this but apparently they are disabled. I have an aluminum oil pan from the Vortec V6's. I suspect and beleive its a little bulkier than the origin stamped steel oil pan. Do you think I would be able to slide the oil pan out with just raising the motor and moving the front differential as you did?
My goal is to swap oil pan's (my turbo oil return is mounted too low).
I tried to send DaveP a pm on this but apparently they are disabled. I have an aluminum oil pan from the Vortec V6's. I suspect and beleive its a little bulkier than the origin stamped steel oil pan. Do you think I would be able to slide the oil pan out with just raising the motor and moving the front differential as you did?
My goal is to swap oil pan's (my turbo oil return is mounted too low).
Throws
Active member
Re: Oil pan removal
Have you talked to John Waller? I think he was telling me about using a different pan when I do my rebuild.
-P
Have you talked to John Waller? I think he was telling me about using a different pan when I do my rebuild.
-P
dgoodhue
BuSTeD 4.3
Re: Oil pan removal
I have a Vortec motor so that is why I have a Vortec oil pan; the oil pans are not inter changeable.
I have a Vortec motor so that is why I have a Vortec oil pan; the oil pans are not inter changeable.
DaveP
Active member
Re: Oil pan removal
I think it will still come out, Dave. Raising the engine, as well as push the diff and steering forward is to get enough clearance for the rear of the pan to get under the flexplate. The pan has to be at a really steep rear-down angle before it can be slid back and out. By pushing the diff forward, you get the steeper angle needed.
I have done an engine in truck pan removal. Stock pan though. It wasn't that bad. As long as the forward sump isn't any deeper than a stock pan, I don't think you'll have any trouble.
I think it will still come out, Dave. Raising the engine, as well as push the diff and steering forward is to get enough clearance for the rear of the pan to get under the flexplate. The pan has to be at a really steep rear-down angle before it can be slid back and out. By pushing the diff forward, you get the steeper angle needed.
I have done an engine in truck pan removal. Stock pan though. It wasn't that bad. As long as the forward sump isn't any deeper than a stock pan, I don't think you'll have any trouble.