I'm Wanting To Do Away W/ My Leaf Spring Setup On Yhe Sy This Winter ( Will Def Be A Winter Project ). Anybody Here Got Any Ideas On What Is The Best Way To Go About This On These Trucks? I Want To Keep It Streetable As I Dont Have Plans To Race It All That Much...might See A Couple Passe's A Year.
Rear Coil Over W/ 4 Link
- Thread starter CKEITH
- Start date
jjorgensen52
NHSTE - I'm the only one!
Re: Rear Coil Over W/ 4 Link
i was thinking of doing this by doing links from the leaf ears to a custom bracket right under the axle, using coilover qa1's and a panhard (there is a hole in the frame that it could go to). Of course, you could make it to use the standard leafspring bushings etc, but i havent done a loty of work on it
i was thinking of doing this by doing links from the leaf ears to a custom bracket right under the axle, using coilover qa1's and a panhard (there is a hole in the frame that it could go to). Of course, you could make it to use the standard leafspring bushings etc, but i havent done a loty of work on it
Re: Rear Coil Over W/ 4 Link
WHAT DO U THINK ABOUT THIS? BUT ADDING COILOVERS INSTEAD IF AIR BAGS?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/S-10...33586QQitemZ8001886799QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
OR THIS- http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WELD...cmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33586QQitemZ8001886404
WHAT DO U THINK ABOUT THIS? BUT ADDING COILOVERS INSTEAD IF AIR BAGS?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/S-10...33586QQitemZ8001886799QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
OR THIS- http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/WELD...cmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33586QQitemZ8001886404
'JustDreamin'
Dream: 6LV8 Turbo Bravada
Re: Rear Coil Over W/ 4 Link
Don't you think you should ask this in the Suspension forum, not the electrical forum? You might get more responses.
'Dreamin'
Don't you think you should ask this in the Suspension forum, not the electrical forum? You might get more responses.
'Dreamin'
Re: Rear Coil Over W/ 4 Link
Sounds Like A Pretty Good Idea. Thnx....lol
Sounds Like A Pretty Good Idea. Thnx....lol
jjorgensen52
NHSTE - I'm the only one!
Re: Rear Coil Over W/ 4 Link
That is almost exactly what i was thinking of, except I'd have done it with a typical panhard bar instead of those center links, which I think will work better. I think you can buy the rear coilovers over at Turbo Time
The only thing I don't like there is how low the pivots are below the axle. (see pic) Especially with blocks those will be really close to the ground. If I were building it, I would have put the pivot at the axle, but just ahead of the centerline, so that the pivot was above the bottom of the diff.
That is almost exactly what i was thinking of, except I'd have done it with a typical panhard bar instead of those center links, which I think will work better. I think you can buy the rear coilovers over at Turbo Time
The only thing I don't like there is how low the pivots are below the axle. (see pic) Especially with blocks those will be really close to the ground. If I were building it, I would have put the pivot at the axle, but just ahead of the centerline, so that the pivot was above the bottom of the diff.
turbodog
Donating Member
Re: Rear Coil Over W/ 4 Link
I saw these a while back. Hard to beat for the $$. My concerns are:
- they are made for the 'slammed' guys.... will they hold up to hard daily driving, let alone boost launches?
- will the upper link or bracket interfere with Typhoon exhaust routing? Seems likely....
I saw these a while back. Hard to beat for the $$. My concerns are:
- they are made for the 'slammed' guys.... will they hold up to hard daily driving, let alone boost launches?
- will the upper link or bracket interfere with Typhoon exhaust routing? Seems likely....
jjorgensen52
NHSTE - I'm the only one!
Re: Rear Coil Over W/ 4 Link
You got me there... I just don't like the clearance on that... where I drive, I can easily see that hitting pavement (stupid frost heaves).
JS Manufacturing said:
You got me there... I just don't like the clearance on that... where I drive, I can easily see that hitting pavement (stupid frost heaves).
'JustDreamin'
Dream: 6LV8 Turbo Bravada
Re: Rear Coil Over W/ 4 Link
Everything in life is a compromise, there is rarely something really good that doesn't require you to give something up (often its money out of your pocket).
In this case its a matter of balancing ground clearance, ride height, suspension travel, and good suspension geometry (to provide anti-squat, anti-roll, and such) to create a good suspension design for your application. And you MUST consider the application, the amount of power, the road conditions, the desired results (canyon carver / straight line speed / daily driver / low rider / whatever it is).
I would also suggest that doing a 3 link system with a panhard / watts link setup is probably the best choice. 4 links are fine, but you've really got 1 more link than you need, which just ends up increasing complexity and adding other drawbacks.
'Dreamin'
Everything in life is a compromise, there is rarely something really good that doesn't require you to give something up (often its money out of your pocket).
In this case its a matter of balancing ground clearance, ride height, suspension travel, and good suspension geometry (to provide anti-squat, anti-roll, and such) to create a good suspension design for your application. And you MUST consider the application, the amount of power, the road conditions, the desired results (canyon carver / straight line speed / daily driver / low rider / whatever it is).
I would also suggest that doing a 3 link system with a panhard / watts link setup is probably the best choice. 4 links are fine, but you've really got 1 more link than you need, which just ends up increasing complexity and adding other drawbacks.
'Dreamin'
NOJIMMY
New member
Re: Rear Coil Over W/ 4 Link
Not mentioned, but perhaps relevent, is the following;
1. A cheap/poorly designed suspension (front, rear, ladder, 3-link, 4-link, whatever) is worse than stock.
2. An expensive suspension system, poorly adjusted, is worse than stock.
3. An expensive suspension system, poorly designed for its intended application
"can be" worse than stock (hiway, dragracing, autocrossing, winter/summer driving, etc)
4. An expensive suspension system, and bad tires, rims, adapters, shocks, etc is worse than stock.
5. A good rear suspension, and bad front suspension (ball joints, etc) is worse than stock.
6. A good suspension system, and bad/inadequate brakes, axles, propshafts, ujoints, driveshafts, diffs, steering components is worse than stock.
7. A good suspension system, and lots of body,frame flexing, is a bad thing.
Granted, stock systems (leaf & torsion bars) arent that great, but in proper working
condition they are safe, adequate for racing/hiway driving, maintenance friendly,
and work with other GM components (sway bar, bump stops, spring rates, etc).
Some of the hacked up "shiny" suspensions installed are sometimes just dangerous...IMHO.
(Coupled with lowering, large rim sizes, extra-sticky tires, improper torqued nuts,
and weird offsets/bearing stress, damaged frames, & improper alignments
its amazing more AWD systems dont crash-n-burn). So let buyers beware
Not mentioned, but perhaps relevent, is the following;
1. A cheap/poorly designed suspension (front, rear, ladder, 3-link, 4-link, whatever) is worse than stock.
2. An expensive suspension system, poorly adjusted, is worse than stock.
3. An expensive suspension system, poorly designed for its intended application
"can be" worse than stock (hiway, dragracing, autocrossing, winter/summer driving, etc)
4. An expensive suspension system, and bad tires, rims, adapters, shocks, etc is worse than stock.
5. A good rear suspension, and bad front suspension (ball joints, etc) is worse than stock.
6. A good suspension system, and bad/inadequate brakes, axles, propshafts, ujoints, driveshafts, diffs, steering components is worse than stock.
7. A good suspension system, and lots of body,frame flexing, is a bad thing.
Granted, stock systems (leaf & torsion bars) arent that great, but in proper working
condition they are safe, adequate for racing/hiway driving, maintenance friendly,
and work with other GM components (sway bar, bump stops, spring rates, etc).
Some of the hacked up "shiny" suspensions installed are sometimes just dangerous...IMHO.
(Coupled with lowering, large rim sizes, extra-sticky tires, improper torqued nuts,
and weird offsets/bearing stress, damaged frames, & improper alignments
its amazing more AWD systems dont crash-n-burn). So let buyers beware
'JustDreamin'
Dream: 6LV8 Turbo Bravada
Re: Rear Coil Over W/ 4 Link
You make some excellent points....
GM spent a fair bit of time and money developing the suspensions on these trucks. They may not be the best in every arena, but they do pretty good in most, while holding up under all but the most demanding of circumstances with minimal (sometimes no) maintenance. And most of the guys doing the developing had years of engineering, suspension design, and testing experience. Many people who cobble together a suspension don't have that, and thats something that is tough to buy.
'Dreamin'
You make some excellent points....
GM spent a fair bit of time and money developing the suspensions on these trucks. They may not be the best in every arena, but they do pretty good in most, while holding up under all but the most demanding of circumstances with minimal (sometimes no) maintenance. And most of the guys doing the developing had years of engineering, suspension design, and testing experience. Many people who cobble together a suspension don't have that, and thats something that is tough to buy.
'Dreamin'
HighPerformanceTrucks
Lift & Shift Specialist
Re: Rear Coil Over W/ 4 Link
How about a 3 link suspension like mine:
http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=31132
It's much easier to dial in anti squat and roll understeer with a 3 link than a 4 link and it does a much better job of locating the rear axle. The coil over is much easier to adjust ride height and to change springs wth different rates. This setup absorbs bumps and rides tons better than the fiberglass springs I had before. The suspension does transmit a bit more road noise through the chassis via the heims, but that is a small tradeoff for great handling and traction.
CKEITH said:
How about a 3 link suspension like mine:
http://www.syty.net/forums/showthread.php?t=31132
It's much easier to dial in anti squat and roll understeer with a 3 link than a 4 link and it does a much better job of locating the rear axle. The coil over is much easier to adjust ride height and to change springs wth different rates. This setup absorbs bumps and rides tons better than the fiberglass springs I had before. The suspension does transmit a bit more road noise through the chassis via the heims, but that is a small tradeoff for great handling and traction.
jjorgensen52
NHSTE - I'm the only one!
Re: Rear Coil Over W/ 4 Link
lot more work though
lot more work though
HighPerformanceTrucks
Lift & Shift Specialist
Re: Rear Coil Over W/ 4 Link
very true
very true
jjorgensen52 said:
jjorgensen52
NHSTE - I'm the only one!
Re: Rear Coil Over W/ 4 Link
looks worth it though... for now, I'm sticking with my flexaforms and Monomaxs
looks worth it though... for now, I'm sticking with my flexaforms and Monomaxs
Re: Rear Coil Over W/ 4 Link
If you put say 2 or 3" drop blocks in the rear of a Sy/TY it would give you the same ground to axle plate clearance as that kit. I really dont see a problem with hitting anything unless a basketball somehow made it under the cladding and got caught on there. The pivot point is under the axle like that to maximize the bar lengths to give a better ride and lift articulation, it also makes it alot easier to line up with the stock axle pads, stock front leaf hangers, and what not.
none of those link setups will work with the ty, as there is no gas tank Xmember for the two triangulated bars to mount to.
also, check out the way those triangulated bars are mounted to the rear end. some people i know, in daily driving situations with midly stock 4 and 6 cylinder S10's have had problems with the diff cover bolts walking out of the diff. if it were me, i would feel more secure with welding all points to the truck.
if you hit a frost heave, your wheels would most likely travel upward, bringing the clearance up with it.
i agree 100% on some form of 3 link setup, on my 98 S10 i have a triangulated 4 link setup. the two upper bars are fairly hard to dial in to get a happy medium with wheelbase and pinion angle in mind, as well as getting the axle completely centered.
a 2 or 3 link with a watts link would work amazingly well, no side to side axle movement if you were interested cornering.
here is a inexpensive watts link http://www.builtbybyc.com/leftmenu/watts.html
that is some sick work dude. looks amazing.
jjorgensen52 said:
If you put say 2 or 3" drop blocks in the rear of a Sy/TY it would give you the same ground to axle plate clearance as that kit. I really dont see a problem with hitting anything unless a basketball somehow made it under the cladding and got caught on there. The pivot point is under the axle like that to maximize the bar lengths to give a better ride and lift articulation, it also makes it alot easier to line up with the stock axle pads, stock front leaf hangers, and what not.
turbodog said:
none of those link setups will work with the ty, as there is no gas tank Xmember for the two triangulated bars to mount to.
also, check out the way those triangulated bars are mounted to the rear end. some people i know, in daily driving situations with midly stock 4 and 6 cylinder S10's have had problems with the diff cover bolts walking out of the diff. if it were me, i would feel more secure with welding all points to the truck.
jjorgensen52 said:
if you hit a frost heave, your wheels would most likely travel upward, bringing the clearance up with it.
JustDreamin said:
i agree 100% on some form of 3 link setup, on my 98 S10 i have a triangulated 4 link setup. the two upper bars are fairly hard to dial in to get a happy medium with wheelbase and pinion angle in mind, as well as getting the axle completely centered.
a 2 or 3 link with a watts link would work amazingly well, no side to side axle movement if you were interested cornering.
here is a inexpensive watts link http://www.builtbybyc.com/leftmenu/watts.html
ivanko barbell said:
that is some sick work dude. looks amazing.
jjorgensen52
NHSTE - I'm the only one!
Re: Rear Coil Over W/ 4 Link
the frost heaves tend to be in the middle of the lane... think scraped bumpers, exhaust etc
the frost heaves tend to be in the middle of the lane... think scraped bumpers, exhaust etc
Windedv6
Ty n 10s
Re: Rear Coil Over W/ 4 Link
Here is what I did...a pro chassis setup from Chassisworks. I orginally did a custom chassis from some local fabber and when it broke I was doing 120+ down the track. It wasn't a pretty sight...shitting my pants and all as I thought it was all over but the crying. I loaded the ty on the trailer at the track and dropped it off at a pro shop and said fix it right. He pirchased the kit from Chassisworks and also built me a cage. I feel so much safer now. I guess most of us have to go through something like this first before we decide to do things the right way for safety sake.
John
Here is what I did...a pro chassis setup from Chassisworks. I orginally did a custom chassis from some local fabber and when it broke I was doing 120+ down the track. It wasn't a pretty sight...shitting my pants and all as I thought it was all over but the crying. I loaded the ty on the trailer at the track and dropped it off at a pro shop and said fix it right. He pirchased the kit from Chassisworks and also built me a cage. I feel so much safer now. I guess most of us have to go through something like this first before we decide to do things the right way for safety sake.
John