SBC conversion

[canadian]

Barry:

I'm assuming you're planning on keeping the truck EFI? Most of the SBC parts will be easy to find. You could probably build a 383 for a little more than a 350 and have more cubes (possibly better rod ratio to boot). I think intake and heads would be the biggest decision to make.

Of course you could use the 7749 to run the SBC and not have to go aftermarket since you are already familiar with it.

 

[Falco]

Wow, a single turbo setup? I thought you were thinking in a twin turbo setup. I just was about to ask about the clearance on the driver's side... Anyway. What would you expect cost wise? I guess the engine could come together at around $4k + intake + custom headers + the ignition setup . I guess we could stay with our ECM if cost is an issue.

Of course a conversion like this should address our tranny issues. I don't think a built 700r4 would hold up against this combo for too long...

Later,

 

[4C FED]

The parts available for the SBC, for one, would be compelling enough for most people. Let alone, the durability factor.
There just isn't enough HiPo support for the V6.

I've been considering the same thing. Just not sure how to make it CA SMOG compliant.

 

[leroy]

Barry,

Sorry to hear about the engine. How many rpms were you turning?

You've pioneered a few things in the SyTy community. It looks like another one is imminent. I know you'll keep us posted.

Jim

 

[bigtime]

Barry:

I'm assuming you're planning on keeping the truck EFI? Most of the SBC parts will be easy to find. You could probably build a 383 for a little more than a 350 and have more cubes (possibly better rod ratio to boot).

350 cid, 3.48stroke/5.7 rod = 1.64
350 cid, 3.48 stroke/6" rod = 1.72 winner!
383 cid, 3.75 stroke/6" rod = 1.6
I would take the 350 as it would have plenty of torque and make power in
a better place (a little higher than the 383)

 

[myclone]

One more thing.. As Canadian mentioned you might look into doing a 383 as those are excellent engines. Ive built two that ran great and by now the parts are prolly fairly cheap. When I built them the 383 was kinda new to the main stream street car crowd so parts were pricey. If you do some checking I bet you could put togeather a 383 short block for close to what the same 350 would cost since the 383 is a somewhat common thing now.

Ive all but given up on doing anything with V8s so its been several years since Ive looked at the prices and parts availability for the 383 so a little shopping will prolly turn up the needed parts for a cheap.

Also, as teflon don mentioned there was and may still be a company called Jaguars(s) That Run (they go by JTR) that offer quite a bit of info on swapping a V8 into an S truck. I believe they offer some/all of the conversion parts too. Its been a LONG time since I looked them up but it may be to your advantage to look into those guys to see if they are still around and what they offer.

 

[canadian]

you can also find jtr parts in the summit catalog. but they do still exist at the url that green posted.

 

[Daron]

I say go for it Barry... I have experience installing a 350/700r4 in an S-series. It was naturally aspirated and 2WD. We really had some underhood heat issues with the headers, as well as cooling system/AC teething probs. It wasn't much work really as the aftermarket had everything we needed.

I'd actually love to have an LS-1 powered Turbo syclone.

 

[Syborg Twin Turbo]

Barry & Brain "Teflon Don",

I'm all for the v8 conversion. Look at the syclone that just went 9 something and that truck was built on a shoe-string budget.

I am also considering a turbo v8 for the scary phoon since it doesn't have a motor in it right now.

Here is an example of a 2wd chevy typhoon. Teddy the owner of the truck didn't have alot of cooling issue's but he did have an issue with the lack of a/c in the summer.

Here is yet another example of a really bad ass syclone with two turbo's

BTW - I'm sorry to hear about your motor. I do have a really nice cast iron v6 bowtie block that i am selling if anyone is interested.

 

[Sy#26]

Humm, after couple days of checking, first tough part is finding a good Vortec block & heads. 383 rotating assy's go for $900-1100, readily available - not w/ 8.5 - 9.0 CR or so, though; hafta look more.

Lotsa 'honeydoo' stuff slowing this project down........arggggh! Anxious to get it apart to see what a mangled Eagle rod looks like.

I'll be selling all the SyTy engine-specific stuff, as well as my *nice* stock wheels to help bankroll this job. That, plus embezzling money from myself...humm, don't see any 'in jail' emoticons...

Thanks again, guys

BTW, RPMs @ failure were around 4500; my normal WOT shift points were 5600 or so.

 

[canadian]

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33615&item=2437643662

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=33615&item=2438064948

 

[Sy#26]

Thanks, Canadian. Did some further checking, found a salvage yard here in MI w/ several 1996+ 5.7L engines, heading up there next week to check 'em out. All I'll be keeping is the block & heads, so don't need a real nice one.

Question: are these 1996+ engines all 4 bolts & roller cams, or are some 2 bolt / flat tappet? Anyone know the cc's of the combustion chambers? Need around 72cc to get a 8.x:1 CR. Even 9.0:1 might work, as I'm not gonna use much boost - maybe 12psi or so.

Thanks very much, guy -

 

[smeagol]

I don't know of any of those motors being 4 bolt main motors. I believe the engine code you are looking for is L31, and those motors are really common in junkyards. My buddy works at one of the biggest junkyards in chicagoland, and had a handful of those - but had a hard time getting his hands on LS1 stuff. I got my 5.3L (Gen III) motor from his place for really cheap, and he told me they had 5-10 of the 5.7L Vortec motors (out of full size trucks) that he could have gotten me even better pricing on.

probably a good start for your buildup...

 

[sytyguy]

Barry.......the engine I had in my Chevy II ('97 Vortec out of a C1500) was 2 bolt & roller cam. All '96 and up are gonna be roller, but I can't remember if they offered a 4 bolt version or not. All your light duty stuff is gonna be 2 bolt, and my book only shows 2 bolt offerings, but when the hell has it ever been right? :wink:

The engine code is L31 and here are some casting numbers:

Block - 10243880
Crank - 14088526
Head - 12855062

There are other Vortec head numbers out there IIRC, but that's the one staring me in the face. FWIW, deals on these engines are all over the place. I bought mine (complete with harness, injection, etc....with 27k miles) years ago for $250. I have bought/sold about 3 Vortec 350s in the last year or two, and I picked up all of them for less than $400 complete. Maybe I was just owed too many favors or have had good luck, but you should have no problem finding a good engine.

Hope this helps and good luck with the project.

Hood

 

[myclone]

I dunno about 96 and up engines but for the earlier fuel injected stuff if you ran across a 1 ton chassis be it pick up or box van you had a REALLY good chance of it being 4 bolt mains. What I found was to look for plane jane "work trucks" that were used for a business as they were more likely to have the 5.7 base engine than the big block or diesel. Just be aware that those engines were regularly swapped out for new one due to abuse so you also have a good chance at getting a non four bolt even though the truck came with it new.

Basically look for:

State owned or DOT trucks (1 tons, crew cabs, etc).
Delivery "box trucks" for non industrial companies that needed a large vehicle but what they hauled didnt weigh a lot.
Large corporations fleet trucks (Norfolk & Southern RR here has TONS of chev trucks that the yards regularly buy at auction which have 350s in em).
The easy way to spot them is vinyl interrior, rubber floor mats, white in color (or some other low maint color), and stock painted steel wheels.

No need to look at:

Vehicles that have nice interriors or what have you as those were prolly owned by individuals that bought it for play/comfort not to get beat to death.

HTH

 

[Syborg Twin Turbo]

Humm, after couple days of checking, first tough part is finding a good Vortec block & heads. 383 rotating assy's go for $900-1100, readily available - not w/ 8.5 - 9.0 CR or so, though; hafta look more.

I know most everyone on this list is in love with the vortec heads but why not look into a set of vortec heads that are already cnc ported and you will know exactly what they flow right out of the box. Plus there is a considerable weight savings.

The other thing to think about it the weight difference on the front end of the truck with a cast iron motor and block. You will notice the truck steers different and you may not like how it handles.

I like alumiunum motors myself and would consider spending the extra money to save some weight.

I am farily certain that Mike Lee "Race Proven Motors" could help you find a resonable price aluminum small block.
http://www.raceprovenmotors.com/

As far as turbo headers are concerned you shouldn't have a problem your in Michigan.

 

[Sy#26]

And here's part of why I'm doing this.....

[/img]

 

[myclone]

thats gonna leave a mark...

 

[bigtime]

Get a 1988 and up out of a truck. It will be a 4 bolt, roller cam block.
you can get a all 4340 forged rotating assembly with je pistons, any cr,
balanced for $1600.00. buy a set of heads frome edelbrock ($1000.00) or
AFR cnc ($1500.00). GO with aluminum heads. way better. The vortecs are
good for a bolt on low hp, but if you are serious about making some big HP
buy the good stuff the first time.

just my .02

I can get you a used 4 bolt roller block, maged, cooked, decked, bored from a local machine shop. Where are you located?

 

[TYPHOOL7]

I know of several 10 sec 4.3 trucks and they are fine just built right, heck mine had the shizzle beeat out of it on the dyno (think 40 1/4 passes back to back) and had no problem till we opened the bottle a little farther.

I'm not going to beat this one to death, but I've been to nationals and they never show up. If 4.3L's could run 10's without blowing up you'd see a few at the national event each year.

Last year - None (closest was me)
year before - 1 (tony)
year before - None (closest was pete)
year before - None
year before - 1 (guy L)

In 5 years we had two 10 second passes.. Not saying your a liar, your a good guy but I just don't believe that 4.3L is a good platform for 10's.

I GUARUNFAWKINTEE THERE WILL BE AT LEAST 2 from SoCal next year. Anything can be done with $$$$
Lets try not cheaping out on parts and cutting god knows how many other corners to save money,"as finger points to "*****" it will not die that easily..unles you D*CK around for a few hundred bucks. Then 3 months later your like WTF man i just payed X amount of moolah to have this POS break again, i dont get it was it the trw pistons or the....CMON guys we all know why things break, either they suck to begin with or they were pushed over the cliff, ie n0s etc..