Turbo/boost question
- Thread starter Slyclone
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Quickstop [UK]
Combating adversyty.
Re: Turbo/boost question
Coke is just burnt oil. Pull the shaft, clean it and flush the turbo.
And do not sneeze!
Coke is just burnt oil. Pull the shaft, clean it and flush the turbo.
And do not sneeze!
Gnocide
turbo game burt reynolds
Re: Turbo/boost question
that as it may the boost wouldn't be at a preset 8 psi
it would vary greatly and randomly unless it was seized completely
that as it may the boost wouldn't be at a preset 8 psi
it would vary greatly and randomly unless it was seized completely
Slyclone
Well-known member
Re: Turbo/boost question
I did yank 3 plugs on the driver side. Plug #1 always has shown some deposits like a valve seal is bad. The other 2 plugs were clean as a whistle. I ran out of motivation yesterday and left the other 3 alone. I can check them out today.
I was hoping I did not have to remove the turbo completely as I am afraid I will break off or snap a stud. Its happened before. Was thinking of a way to try and just replace the cartrage or center section but it looks like I have to remove it all even the down pipe, if I remember correctly the exhaust wheel comes out the back? Honestly I'm looking for a easy way out. I just payed close to $2000 for a trans to be installed and I have had more problems with the truck all the sudden more than ever.
There is a ever so slight bind up on the cold side wheel. No up/down movement or any scoring going on on the inside.
I did yank 3 plugs on the driver side. Plug #1 always has shown some deposits like a valve seal is bad. The other 2 plugs were clean as a whistle. I ran out of motivation yesterday and left the other 3 alone. I can check them out today.
I was hoping I did not have to remove the turbo completely as I am afraid I will break off or snap a stud. Its happened before. Was thinking of a way to try and just replace the cartrage or center section but it looks like I have to remove it all even the down pipe, if I remember correctly the exhaust wheel comes out the back? Honestly I'm looking for a easy way out. I just payed close to $2000 for a trans to be installed and I have had more problems with the truck all the sudden more than ever.
There is a ever so slight bind up on the cold side wheel. No up/down movement or any scoring going on on the inside.
fivetodrive
CRISPY
Re: Turbo/boost question
Not sure that is possible but you could try this:
Remove coolant lines and the oil lines
Take the center section off the exhaust housing. You may be able to get to the clamp off the center section to the exhaust housing.
Then the cartridge and the rest should come apart allowing you to get some brake cleaner in there to remove some of the cokeing on the shaft.
I have a freshly rebuilt center section that I could exchange for yours and a little cash as well if you want.
Not sure that is possible but you could try this:
Remove coolant lines and the oil lines
Take the center section off the exhaust housing. You may be able to get to the clamp off the center section to the exhaust housing.
Then the cartridge and the rest should come apart allowing you to get some brake cleaner in there to remove some of the cokeing on the shaft.
I have a freshly rebuilt center section that I could exchange for yours and a little cash as well if you want.
Slyclone
Well-known member
Re: Turbo/boost question
I do not have much experience with the stock turbos never really took one apart so I dont know if its possible ( being able to remove the whole shaft from the inside) Not sure if there is a clip or something that would hang me up. I am all for making a attempt.
Thanks for the heads up .
I do not have much experience with the stock turbos never really took one apart so I dont know if its possible ( being able to remove the whole shaft from the inside) Not sure if there is a clip or something that would hang me up. I am all for making a attempt.
Thanks for the heads up .
Slyclone
Well-known member
Re: Turbo/boost question
Ok, Have not done anything so far today so I am ready to do something. I will do the hose off test again
I am pretty sure I am pushing the truck hard enough. I looked under the pedal and adjusted the floor mat a few times thinking I cant get full throttle. I will test it out back where I have a good stretch to open it up.
One of my thoughts was that the WG may have froze shut...Still have not attempted to move the actual WG arm. Hard to get in there with something to move it around.That would limit boost right? Just a thought. Still have not done a test with pressure in regards to gauge or watching the WG arm move.
Did not do the energize test with AB and key on. Also I dont have my noid lights handy .
Ok, Have not done anything so far today so I am ready to do something. I will do the hose off test again
I am pretty sure I am pushing the truck hard enough. I looked under the pedal and adjusted the floor mat a few times thinking I cant get full throttle. I will test it out back where I have a good stretch to open it up.
One of my thoughts was that the WG may have froze shut...Still have not attempted to move the actual WG arm. Hard to get in there with something to move it around.That would limit boost right? Just a thought. Still have not done a test with pressure in regards to gauge or watching the WG arm move.
Did not do the energize test with AB and key on. Also I dont have my noid lights handy .
Couger1968
Dazed and Confused
Re: Turbo/boost question
If you remove the inner fender, just a few bolts, you can get right at the turbo, wastegate, plugs, and other things easy. Just jack it up and unbolt it. It should wiggle out. You can even drive it that way since it really doesn't support anything.
If you remove the inner fender, just a few bolts, you can get right at the turbo, wastegate, plugs, and other things easy. Just jack it up and unbolt it. It should wiggle out. You can even drive it that way since it really doesn't support anything.
Slyclone
Well-known member
Re: Turbo/boost question
No, I removed that as well as the dual pillar gauge pods and donated to a member here.
I can clearly see/notice that (factory) gauge does not climb up to the higher psi. Just romped on it again and I saw tops 8 psi. It floated a small bit above the first red boost bar.
Where before I would notice it shoots up no problem to 10-12-14 psi.
Just removed the Brand new out of the box delco WG sol. and swapped it out for the old crusty one. Going to try that and see if it helps? Than I will move on to something else.
V I will try that as well. Try to move it. Another thought was that it has been closed or open. One or the other.
No, I removed that as well as the dual pillar gauge pods and donated to a member here.
I can clearly see/notice that (factory) gauge does not climb up to the higher psi. Just romped on it again and I saw tops 8 psi. It floated a small bit above the first red boost bar.
Where before I would notice it shoots up no problem to 10-12-14 psi.
Just removed the Brand new out of the box delco WG sol. and swapped it out for the old crusty one. Going to try that and see if it helps? Than I will move on to something else.
V I will try that as well. Try to move it. Another thought was that it has been closed or open. One or the other.
Slyclone
Well-known member
Re: Turbo/boost question
I tried to move the waste gate and really could not. I put a screw driver on the back part of the adjusting rod and it would not budge. Tried tp get my hand in there to move it just was not happening. I used one of my larger snap on cabinet driver to do this. I grabbed my pry bar and attempted to move the flapper backwards towards the fire wall. It moved but just a little bit. There was no forward motion of wastegate arm to the front of truck at all?
I am not exactly sure if its even working correctly or it is frozen or stuck. Looking at it under the hood there was a large flow of coolant guzzling out of the overflow tank. It looks like it all sprayed and misted that part. I put a few small drops of oil to penetrate the flapper arm. Still no boost above 5 psi or so. Even swapping out the old boost sensor did nothing.
I tried to move the waste gate and really could not. I put a screw driver on the back part of the adjusting rod and it would not budge. Tried tp get my hand in there to move it just was not happening. I used one of my larger snap on cabinet driver to do this. I grabbed my pry bar and attempted to move the flapper backwards towards the fire wall. It moved but just a little bit. There was no forward motion of wastegate arm to the front of truck at all?
I am not exactly sure if its even working correctly or it is frozen or stuck. Looking at it under the hood there was a large flow of coolant guzzling out of the overflow tank. It looks like it all sprayed and misted that part. I put a few small drops of oil to penetrate the flapper arm. Still no boost above 5 psi or so. Even swapping out the old boost sensor did nothing.
Couger1968
Dazed and Confused
Re: Turbo/boost question
I would pull the inner fender and then pull out the clip on the end of the wastegate rod and pull the rod off the pin. The flapper should be loose with no binding at all.
I would pull the inner fender and then pull out the clip on the end of the wastegate rod and pull the rod off the pin. The flapper should be loose with no binding at all.
Slyclone
Well-known member
Re: Turbo/boost question
Removed all the stuff about 6 mons ago. Replace with a silicon kit for vac. Lines.
I will work on removing the clip and making sure the rod moves freely in and out as well as the little swing valve for movement.
Thanks everyone for the input provided.
Removed all the stuff about 6 mons ago. Replace with a silicon kit for vac. Lines.
I will work on removing the clip and making sure the rod moves freely in and out as well as the little swing valve for movement.
Thanks everyone for the input provided.
Couger1968
Dazed and Confused
Re: Turbo/boost question
The rod is on a diaphragm with spring. It is a little hard to pull out. The flapper should swing easily about 7/16".
The rod is on a diaphragm with spring. It is a little hard to pull out. The flapper should swing easily about 7/16".
Slyclone
Well-known member
Re: Turbo/boost question
Just got back in from being back under the hood and inner wheel well of truck. Removed the clip on turbo flapper. It snapped off and left a piece inside the little hole. ( I really can't win) it had some rust on the surface and didn't pass freely through the hole. Not sure wtf to do because it is free floating now in a way.
The WG arm I pulled out. It worked. I was able to get the flapper to move back and fourth no problem. So its not that.
I did pull 2 of the plugs on pass. Side. Both are clean as a whistle as well. I did not pull plug 4 because sometimes its a lot more work than anticipated. I did discover 2 cooked through plug wires. Just got done swapping them out. I checked the gap on the plugs and they were way off. I tightened them back up. Going to go for a ride and see if it helped. Other than that, I'm out of things to look for asides the turbo condition still.
Just got back in from being back under the hood and inner wheel well of truck. Removed the clip on turbo flapper. It snapped off and left a piece inside the little hole. ( I really can't win) it had some rust on the surface and didn't pass freely through the hole. Not sure wtf to do because it is free floating now in a way.
The WG arm I pulled out. It worked. I was able to get the flapper to move back and fourth no problem. So its not that.
I did pull 2 of the plugs on pass. Side. Both are clean as a whistle as well. I did not pull plug 4 because sometimes its a lot more work than anticipated. I did discover 2 cooked through plug wires. Just got done swapping them out. I checked the gap on the plugs and they were way off. I tightened them back up. Going to go for a ride and see if it helped. Other than that, I'm out of things to look for asides the turbo condition still.
randy merritt
Donating Member
Re: Turbo/boost question
Two cooked wire would definitely cause a problem.
Two cooked wire would definitely cause a problem.