5.3/4L80E Single Turbo Typhoon Build

eviltwin

"junkyard syclone"
Re: 5.3/4L80E Single Turbo Typhoon Build

dont know if the video is gonna happen tonight. But here are some pics i took of it on my iphone today at work and my parents.

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You can see the air filter on the left, tranny cooler with fan in the middle, and oil filter with turbo oil feed running off it.
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the gauges are wideband on the top, boost controller in the middle, and scan gauge on the bottom
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and the money shot
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QuinnSY

Donating Member
Re: 5.3/4L80E Single Turbo Typhoon Build

damn thats beautiful! That looks like one fast stable ride!
 

eviltwin

"junkyard syclone"
Re: 5.3/4L80E Single Turbo Typhoon Build

Well had her on the dyno today. Ran into some problems but nothing that big. The wastegate spring is way too big. We want to run around 8psi and thought we had a small blue(7psi) spring for our tial but it turns out its a large blue(14psi) spring. Also, after 5,000rpm the alternator mount started to flex causing the belt to jump some ribs. So we got to solve that before we go back. Either way, here is a video of it.

 

sharkbait

New member
Re: 5.3/4L80E Single Turbo Typhoon Build

Well had her on the dyno today. Ran into some problems but nothing that big. The wastegate spring is way too big. We want to run around 8psi and thought we had a small blue(7psi) spring for our tial but it turns out its a large blue(14psi) spring. Also, after 5,000rpm the alternator mount started to flex causing the belt to jump some ribs. So we got to solve that before we go back. Either way, here is a video of it.


am i missing something? so what was the dyno numbers with the 14psi spring?

truck looks awesome thow!:tup:
 

eviltwin

"junkyard syclone"
Re: 5.3/4L80E Single Turbo Typhoon Build

am i missing something? so what was the dyno numbers with the 14psi spring?

truck looks awesome thow!:tup:

sorry forgot about that

got to 8psi and 4000rpm until the boost kept climbing higher than i wanted so we stopped. 426hp 450tq to the wheels. once we fix the problems we will go back and spin it alot higher. hoping for around 480whp when its done.
 

0966Sy

Code what?
Re: 5.3/4L80E Single Turbo Typhoon Build

Very nice work guy's, that Ls1 just sounds and looks bad ass! I think you guy's have proved how easily the swap can be done at an inexpensive budget. Knowledge is on your side for sure! I have a question that i havent seen discussed on the forum before. How difficult is it to hook up the stock guage cluster to work in conjunction with the Ls1 swap? Minor details would be appreciated.... Thanks
 

eviltwin

"junkyard syclone"
Re: 5.3/4L80E Single Turbo Typhoon Build

Very nice work guy's, that Ls1 just sounds and looks bad ass! I think you guy's have proved how easily the swap can be done at an inexpensive budget. Knowledge is on your side for sure! I have a question that i havent seen discussed on the forum before. How difficult is it to hook up the stock guage cluster to work in conjunction with the Ls1 swap? Minor details would be appreciated.... Thanks

In the conversion section of the forum, I have a sticky that's gonna cover most of what's involved in the swap. I will be covering that next so you can look for it there soon enough. Wiring the swap is VERY easy.
 

0966Sy

Code what?
Re: 5.3/4L80E Single Turbo Typhoon Build

Thats great! Im going to be using a standalone Bs3 or Fast XFI and need the entire cluster to work. Most importantly the check engine light for state inspection. The check engine light ties into the ignition switch circuit somewhere and travels back to the factory ECM after going through the cluster. Fooling the circuit without the factory ECM is what im wondering about.
 

eviltwin

"junkyard syclone"
Re: 5.3/4L80E Single Turbo Typhoon Build

Thats great! Im going to be using a standalone Bs3 or Fast XFI and need the entire cluster to work. Most importantly the check engine light for state inspection. The check engine light ties into the ignition switch circuit somewhere and travels back to the factory ECM after going through the cluster. Fooling the circuit without the factory ECM is what im wondering about.

The light stays off when the factory ECM is removed
 

0966Sy

Code what?
Re: 5.3/4L80E Single Turbo Typhoon Build

The light stays off when the factory ECM is removed

Here the check engine light must be visable with a KOEO and off with KOER to pass state inspection. Was any wiring changes needed to the ignition circuit?
 

The Bronze

New member
The bulb check should require that the CEL (MIL) illuminate and then turn off when the key is places into the run position. The bulb staying on during bulb check is a great indicator that something is amiss to state inspectors, at least that's what I taught them. ;)

A delay relay wired into the ignition circuit (2 second delay) would work reasonably well to replicate the bulb check if your ECM doesn't support the Check Engine Light (MIL) test. The factory ECM provides a ground to illuminate the CEL. Your delay relay would thusly have to provide a ground for just a few seconds.

Many guys try to use the oil pressure switch, but that llluminate the light without it turning off. Any reasonable tech would disconnect the pressure switch to verify that's how it was wired.

I have also seen it hooked to the dome light. The gradual dimming of the CEL is a dead giveaway of that trick as well.
 

eviltwin

"junkyard syclone"
Re: 5.3/4L80E Single Turbo Typhoon Build

the 0411 pcm does support an mil light but we chose not to use it. Between the 2bar SD tune and other removed things it would be on all the time.

heres a pic from a drive we took tonight

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cobra198

New member
Re: 5.3/4L80E Single Turbo Typhoon Build

Finally went into boost in the thing tonight for the first time ever... Toooooo exciting!!! I'll get a good vid this weekend
 

0966Sy

Code what?
Re: 5.3/4L80E Single Turbo Typhoon Build

The bulb check should require that the CEL (MIL) illuminate and then turn off when the key is places into the run position. The bulb staying on during bulb check is a great indicator that something is amiss to state inspectors, at least that's what I taught them. ;)QUOTE]

The check engine light must be on and stay on with the key in the run position. That is normal operation. Good luck starting a factory wired truck if the check engine light comes on and goes off with the key in the run position. Now if it's on while the engine is running we all know that means there is a hard fault in the ECM and you would fail Inspection. I am a licensed texas state inspector, I cant do my own though. Sucks
 
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