Rebuilding Ty #284

BMFB

Not to scale
Alright, I've been working on it the last few days. I got the motor back on friday. Seemed to go together well.

This is just after I got the roller lifters and dog bones in.

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This is with the girdle in.

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dont know why, but I like this picture for some reason, had to throw it in.
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Motor with hopefully lashed valve train (ill have to check it again once the lifters are pumped up)
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BLACK and new water pump.

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Come christmas this should be full of motor, but for now it looks like a nightmare.

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Also, my girlfriend painted the upper intake for me and I thought it looked pretty sweet, thought id share

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I'm hoping that sometime this week or weekend I'll have some time to strip and paint my exhaust manifolds and get those mounted, as well as my turbo. I need to get my hands on some engine mounts and a radiator, if funds hold out maybe a T3 turbo blanket. I'm still shooting for the motor to be ready to be put in by the 23rd, and the truck ready to receive it. i don't know how to show how excited I am about this other than this simple smilie :)
 

Try Me

New member
Re: Rebuilding Ty #284

Cool I really like the way the upper intake looks, turned out very nice.
 

BMFB

Not to scale
Re: Rebuilding Ty #284

Did some more work over the last 2 days. I got my engine mounts mounted with new bolts, and I managed to salvage the original heat shields on not only those, but the original exhaust manifolds (exciting, I know)which I also got mounted.

I mounted the turbo, and started mounting all the supporting hoses and such for it. i got the primary old feed line cleaned up and installed, and the return is cleaned and painted, as is the coolant lines, just waiting for more time to get installed.

I also cleaned up my fuel injectors and fuel rail, and pressure reg, and got all of that installed with new rings. finished my valve lash and installed the cover gaskets and bolts.

I repainted my front assembly brackets, but they will be installed another day...I also got my steering box removed (ryan) and i'm pretty sure I need a puller to remove the pitman arm from the new one (has wrong arm).

Pics!

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Tony Dipatri

New member
Re: Rebuilding Ty #284

Alright, I've been working on it the last few days. I got the motor back on friday. Seemed to go together well.

This is just after I got the roller lifters and dog bones in.

1204101545.jpg


This is with the girdle in.

1204101600.jpg


dont know why, but I like this picture for some reason, had to throw it in.
1204101635.jpg


Motor with hopefully lashed valve train (ill have to check it again once the lifters are pumped up)
1204101954.jpg


BLACK and new water pump.

1205102052.jpg


Come christmas this should be full of motor, but for now it looks like a nightmare.

1205102053.jpg


Also, my girlfriend painted the upper intake for me and I thought it looked pretty sweet, thought id share

1205102052a.jpg


I'm hoping that sometime this week or weekend I'll have some time to strip and paint my exhaust manifolds and get those mounted, as well as my turbo. I need to get my hands on some engine mounts and a radiator, if funds hold out maybe a T3 turbo blanket. I'm still shooting for the motor to be ready to be put in by the 23rd, and the truck ready to receive it. i don't know how to show how excited I am about this other than this simple smilie :)

Very Nice,

Right behind you.... Ordering new long block after Christmas...Keep us posted :)
 

BMFB

Not to scale
Re: Rebuilding Ty #284

Just getting it in
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also, and I know this is hard to see, but I had the coolest problem in the world. I put power to it to test the fuel system, and I used a battery charger. I started with off and went to 6 volts and heard a buzzing sound coming from the starter. after some investigating I found that the copper guide had bent slightly and was contacting the S terminal in the starter, thought that was neat, I had to take the cable off and cut the guide back. (see if you can see it in the mirror)

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But after 3 days of tooling in the garage I got it in, and last night running. started up after about 2 complete turns and ran smooth as could be, far smoother than ever before. that could be because its actually balanced now, and I was looking at my spark plug boots and noticed #4 plug boot had a badass gash in it, down to the clip, so i did that cheapest thing I knew how to do, which was fill the gash in with Super RTV sealant and let it sit for 2 days (you'd do the same on 90 dollar "I dont think they make these anymore" wires, its worth a try...and it worked for now). It took me forever to get the right plugs (ngk ur5 2771) but there in, gapped @ .0031.

I fluttered the rpm from 1500 to 2800 for a few minutes and then revved it to 3500 and let off...I forgot how crazy a turbo sounded... and all seemed well, I noticed the motor had a slight tick at idle, but i believe it to be my injectors, or poorly lashed valves...it doesn't ever get louder, just faster, and is high on the motor with perfect rhythm with it.

I did note that my idle (OIL) pressure was way to high, around 70 psi cold, and 55 hot. I knew that was an issue so i shut it down. I talked to my engine builder today and he told me it should be 60 cold and 45 hot, I know my problem is the radiator I bought. It has oil cooler lines in it that are a bit narrower than stock, and must be restricting flow. I talked to colberg today and they said that they could get me one money, so I took the AZ one out and returned it. My power steering box is also leaking from the pitman arm seal...about as fast as a horse can piss...so thats gotta come out too, special thanks by the way to member spooledup, he sold me the box, and i talked to him about what was wrong and had absolutely no problem with helping me out, and making sure I was compensated and satisfied, I wouldnt hesitate to do business with him again, and highly recommend him. but, it is running, and running well, I did a mini brake boost where it sits to about 3 psi and it seemed like it was all there. hopefully monday I can get this all taken care of, I'll see what I can do about the box...
 

BMFB

Not to scale
Re: Rebuilding Ty #284

Took colberg (local shop) about a week to find it, but he got me a good radiator with the correct fittings, the original was 1/2 inch line, but everyone was selling a 5/16 with an adapter to make it work (**** them for that, by the way) That causes some big problems for your oil supply, basically cutting the oil supply from your engine in half. luckly I only ran it for a few minutes, and at low rpm with no load, so it should be perfectly fine. I also was able to get a working box with the refund I was given for the leaky box. After these things are installed, I should be ready to run it again, I'm really hopeing for a warmer day so i can drive it out and give it a much needed bath. I definitly decided on a bell tech front sway bar, and I'd like to get some QA1 shocks on all corners...as i am planning on autoxing this truck to the fullest. I'm going to start out with F-stock, competeing against basically 3rd gen stock cameros (I got a good feeling about that) and If I decide to move up to street prepaired I will prolly change a few...many... things with the truck, mainly the super restrictive stock air intake, and converting the front torson bars to a coilover setup I found that was very effective and not to pricy. Prolly also change the rear sway bar and lower the whole truck 2.5, 3 inches. but, baby steps...it hasnt even moved under its own power in the last 9 months.
 

BMFB

Not to scale
Re: Rebuilding Ty #284

Truck seems to be running fine, its ran at various Rpm's for about 2 hours. seems alright, cant wait to drive it, still a bunch to do with replacing the shocks and whatnot. got the grill and headlights in today (dont loose those springs, otherwise only the j yard has them) but its lookin good, dirty as all hell though...



Running.jpg
 

BMFB

Not to scale
Re: Rebuilding Ty #284

got an hks ssqIII bov from member xcluzivetyphoon and installed that today. I was kinda worried because I read on here that sometimes they dont hold boost...but I dont understand why...but anyway I got it installed and I'm hoping for the best. I used the port on the front of the upper intake. I used the included 3 way splitter and some hose and zip ties to hold it all together. It does work, but with the roads like they have been i wont know how well for a few weeks prolly how it really does.

My neighbor welded the flange on for me, and drilled the hole in the pipe I cut. did a good job for free. Before I get heckled to bad, I can weld fairly well, but all I own is a stick welder, and while I've been known to weld exhaust pipe with it, I felt this wasn't the project to show off my stick wielding prowess with...

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also, some other stuff came in the mail today...

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got new shocks for all corners, nothing to special, but they were the stiffest shocks bilstien offered and I've heard good things about them, I got some new rotors (centric) which are supposed to be a good rotor, I didn't want to go with a drilled and slotted for...personal reasons...protech brake shoes, and GS brake pads,
 

n0mab00n

'Noma GT Fanatic
Re: Rebuilding Ty #284

wish I had a girlfriend who could paint as good as yours let alone paint my parts & I could trust her to do so :squint:
 

BMFB

Not to scale
Re: Rebuilding Ty #284

Last night on my way home from school and work, I noticed that the roads were...road colored...rather than the salty grey or white they have been, and, they were dry. I decided to take the ty out for its first drive since the rebuild. It hasnt been tuned with the new build, so I never went above half throttle, or 8 psi (little lean at 13.8 but, it felt good for 8psi)

This was s magical ride indeed. A long time it has been since the last time I drove this truck. It was so different from what it was before. I kinda took it easy going down my road, suspencin was good, not as tight as my cobalt ss, and still had roll, but the steering wander was gone, and it felt...nice, and still attached to the road. I stopped at the light down the road from me and turned right. I gave it half throttle cause thats just what it felt like it needed, then in the middle of the corner it started to spool and like, doubled it speed instantly, and I turned the wheel a bit sharp cause I'm not used to the new zq8 box, so it snapped me around that corner so fast that I like, didnt know where I was anymore, and felt disoriented. I snapped the wheel back and let off....QWWWISSSHHHH...oh yea, I forgot I put that on there, wow, its loud as hell, is what I thought to myself as i remembered I had put that bov on, huh, blinkers still on...must be because I didnt turn the wheel enough to engauge the return...cool. I pulled up next to...I think an Rx7 as I was approching a light and the bov sounded again as I let off and he looked over and gave me a confused stare, but I knew I couldn't race him so i turned.

All around, ill say the power feel immence, but I can't use it until i fix my knock sensor and then tune it. The steering is crazy, it turns...so fast I dont know how to describe it, Its tighter than my cobalt on responce time, again, still has roll...but it feels so attached to the road at the same time, its weird. I'm still planing on installing a alky control kit, so i guess its not done, but it was good just to drive it again. It sounded good, and seemed to like driving, and The only issues I noted are knock sensor, and purple sire syndrom, which I'm fine with

Just thought I'd share.
 

TNPhoon

1of28
Re: Rebuilding Ty #284

It's been nice here the last few days as well and I am going through Typhoon withdrawl. But fortunately things are starting to move along again on my end.

Great progress and updating! Glad to see her running again. Now that you've tasted the flavor again, betting you will have that thing ready within 2 weeks. :)
 

n0mab00n

'Noma GT Fanatic
Re: Rebuilding Ty #284

Reeeally be careful with those quick ratio/ZQ8 boxes .... most of the ones sold on ebay & some people selling them too normally come off wrecked trucks .... because people don't understand 1 1/2 turns 1 way and then another 1 1/2 turns the other way = fully locked .... sooo they end up rolling an already top heavy suv or a too light in the ass truck. I haven't drove with mine as of yet but I'm hoping once I get a new pump, lines, & add it to the ZQ8 33mm sway bar I'll get the same handling feel you speak of
 

BMFB

Not to scale
Re: Rebuilding Ty #284

its a complicated story from where I got this one, but its new from autozone. And I can see where people could get in trouble, I was driving down my road (bad michigan road) and was kinda practicing emergency swerves to get a feel for it and it was...swift in its change of direction if I wasnt careful. Tell me more about this 33 MM sway bar...
 

warmpancakes

New member
Re: Rebuilding Ty #284

for a rear sway bar get one from parts galore off a 2nd gen blazer. 18.00 out the door drill 2 holes and done makes a huge difference really brings the rear wander under control
 

BMFB

Not to scale
Re: Rebuilding Ty #284

Well, I fixed my knock sensor issue, all it took was reseating the connector, then I cleaned it and greased it to prevent that from happening again...As for the starter, I took my wire off, and noted that the ring terminal had fatigued, and begun to crack, so I replaced it, and soldered in a new wire. Not easy, as I had to pull it from the top of the motor (more middle than top) and do it up there, then fish it back down with some brake line I had. After all of this, I had the same issue. I then traced the wire back to right before it went into the firewall and cut it. I tapped it with straight batt. voltage and the starter jumped to life. I read a bit on forums (syty.net) and saw than many people had had this same thing happen, and the best way to fix it was to install a relay. so, I did, as tastefully as I could. I then took the truck out, and put 30 miles on her (no plates, no insurance) I prolly did 15 tunes on it, and had to play with the fueling a bit, but it seems to be running ok, although the wastegate will not listen to what I'm telling it to do for some reason. I remember having the same issue before, but eventually working it out, ill have to check my notes....but, after a bit of a drive I took it for a car wash. I have a friend of mine coming over to hit it with a wheel in the morning. I did a slolem using the lines on the road at about 15 mph, as fast as I could, and although it had some sway, it felt solid...for a truck.

The reason it looks all weird is its basically encased with grease to keep it from corroding. Prolly gonna replace those screws, I don't trust them. ( I know its a ford solenoid, I'm embarrassed, but its the toughest 12V weather-pack solenoid I could find, and it was 10 bucks)
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This is the overal engine, the relay I added is on the top right corner.
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Before the wash, just had to get a pic from outside the barn...
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BMFB

Not to scale
Re: Rebuilding Ty #284

Took it out again tonight (I've been tuning a bit this week), and about halfway through I managed to empty the tank of 9 month old gas, and put in 60 dollars of new gas. I will say, if there was ever a doubt whether or not gas goes bad, it does, because I saw an instant change on the numbers my truck was throwing at me. after some driveability tuning, I ended up sitting next to a gtp full of drunks, and they honked at me alot, which I took as a race...long story short I won...I noticed I had no knock at 13 psi, which I took as a good sign.

I pulled over in a wendys parking lot, and changed my desired boost from 0, to 15, and my duty cycle correction from 0, to about 3.4% positive, and 4.3% negative, and en-richened my fuel curve about 800 rpm sooner than was was on my main fueling table, as I knew the boost was gonna happen earlyor in my run. I idled down some wet road in genesse county, and commenced a boost launch. It felt great, boost held good at 15, with spikes of 16 during the shifts. I dont know how accurate my engines runtime clock is, but going off that, my 0-60 was 4.6, and 0 to 90 was 12.4. 90's as fast as I went, and I believe a trap speed for a phoon like this would be close to 90, maybe 97. It felt fast, and the knock R was below 3* for most of it (bad I know, but it was the first run)

Only thing that concerns me is my intake air temps, they seems steady at 97F, and during that run spiked at 124. I checked my pump, its running (shurflo) although I may have air somewhere in the system, I want to get all these kinks worked out before I go on meth, and up the boost pressure.
 

BMFB

Not to scale
Re: Rebuilding Ty #284

Been driving it everyday for the last few days, it seems everywhere I go people are either telling me stories about one they've seen a decade ago, or trying to buy it. I played a gig on saturday night and had 2 different people come up to me and offer to buy it, and while sitting in the bar between sets listioning to people talk about it, it was weird.

Bad news though, I got a noise. I don't know what it is yet, it could be the downpipe banging against the bell housing, or it could be well, anything, but it sounds alot like it did right before I yanked the motor and found the #1 main torn out. I know the shop that did my motor did a good job, and I know it was cleaned properly before it was re-assembled, and they put the short block together. coincidently, I ripped my upper rad hose today (it hit my alt somehow) and that sprayed coolant all over the inside of my engine bay, this happened at about the same time the noise started, so I'm gonna take the belt off and run it, and see if its something related to the belt system. I've heard a/c pumps make the same noise as this, so its just something I wanna check. I also remember before when the motor was on its way out you could grab the crank and move it up and down just a smidge and hear it clunk. I may have to do that as well.

it also happened right before I changed the oil (did them at the same time) and the oil came out with some metal in it, but I was expecting that. No big pieces or anything, just like, glitter. I kept some and am going to take it to my builder here in the next day or so.

I ordered a derale pan, and a derale 16 pass electric trans-cooler a few days ago. I plan on mounting under the drivers floor somewhere. I was gonna get the alky control system and install that now that the tunes coming together (16 psi and no knock, woot) but, I'm gonna hold off until I know if the motors staying in or not.

sad...
 

BMFB

Not to scale
Re: Rebuilding Ty #284

still got the noise, and its a strange one. It really sounds like a metallic noise, and sorta like a bearing going out but not as loud, and not quite at the right time. I can feel it in the floor, and its just audible from inside the cab. Without a load on the motor its almost impossible to hear, but its still there. In gear with the brakes applied its there, but still not as bad. I hear it most cruising down the road, at about 1800 rpm, as i feather the throttle, it doesn’t happen on the power side, or the decel side, so much as during the transition.

this confuses me, as a rod noise occurs during accel, and a main is decel (traditionally) it could be slap, but I kinda doubt it. I checked my exhaust and it seems solid, as well as my TQ converter and flexplate. Also, when my main went out the first time, I could literally grab the front of the crank and move it up and down enough to hear a slight clunk, which I cannot hear, its also silent during a slight rotation of the crank.

I can't both drive the truck and be under it, so its hard to find it. I'm also surprised I can feel it, I have polly engine mounts, and the stock rubber trans and transfer-case mount. my oil pressure is less than it was when i first started the motor, but thats to be expected (25% less) there is still metal in the motor, but not as much as before, and its got about 250 miles on it. I talked to my builder and described it to him and he doesn't think its a bearing, but he wants me to bring it to his shop and take a listen. It could be my front pump...I don't know much about transmissions.
 
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